To cylinder head or not to cylinder head that is the question - Page 2 - Nissan-Navara.net
Technical assistance D40 Got a problem with your D40 Navara? Please request help here, hopefully one of us can help. Sponsored by BillCar engineering www.billcar.eu

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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-03-16, 01:50 PM
On the motorway!
 
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Well done on the thread and the head replacement Gavin, no mean feat while carrying an injury.

Top work.........

2006 D40 Navara, Black, manual, EGR blanked, Snugtop canopy, Chrome A bar, Hella Chromium laminator spots, polished alu side bars, Sat nav/Btooth head unit with rev camera, 18" Mak Thrust alloys on 285/55R18.

2008 D40 Navara, manual, project.
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-03-16, 09:47 PM Thread Starter
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The next installment Part 8

So you've done your research and collated all your parts, got your tools ready and created the space you need to work in or prepped your garage if you have one big enough to park up your truck, now I would recommend you pause for a minute.

Take a look at the manual and decide whether you are going to work metric or imperial? If you are working metric newton metres then everything is hunky dory, but if you’re like me brought up to work pounds foot/inch then I suggest you make a cup of tea and sit down with your PC/IPad or a calculator and start correctly converting all torque settings in the sections of the manual you are going to need.

I learned the hard way that Nissan can’t work a calculator for toffee! You will find that there are very few correctly converted torques from newton metres to foot pounds, somebody at Nissan must have had a bad day or a hangover when they were working out the torques or worse still couldn’t be bothered to do a good job of the manual. So take a tea break and sort it all out and it will save you the heartache later. Take a look at my other post and you’ll get the idea.

WARNING torque settings for Cylinder Head are incorrect in the Nissan Manual

Last edited by lookskyward1; 11-03-16 at 09:53 PM.
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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-03-16, 09:54 PM Thread Starter
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Part 9

The next thing I did was lay out some opened out large cardboard boxes on the bench so I could lay out and number the items so that I had and in order of removal which would be reversed for assembly later. Now if you don’t have a garage to work in and you’re doing the job outside you could lay out the parts you remove in the load bay of your truck so you can keep them all together and save them from being knocked or kicked about. Draw a centre line down your cardboard for passenger side and driver’s side, I also used the cardboard as a notepad to itemise every plug, earth lead, pipe and hose so I had a reference/checklist for the rebuild and checked off as I refitted, this helped me not to forget anything. Then off came the bonnet for maximum access, now the choice is yours whether you do this but it makes life easy, if you’re outside you can always pop it back on at night or if it starts to rain.
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Last edited by lookskyward1; 13-03-16 at 12:27 PM.
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-03-16, 09:57 PM Thread Starter
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Location: Stranraer
Posts: 138
Part 10

Take off the plastic splash guard attached to the underside of the bumper as again it aids access and if you drop your spanner or that fiddly bolt it’ll land on the floor and not get stuck, grab a bucket and take off the radiator cap and expansion tank cap (once the engine has cooled) and slip off the bottom radiator hose dumping the coolant into the bucket (make sure you mop up any spillages and clean the area down so that your pets or kids don’t come into contact with the anti-freeze and dispose of sensibly. Drain off the engine oil as normal and dispose of sensibly.


If your outside you may want to make sure you have removed anything from inside the truck you may need and lock the doors, if you’re in the garage leave the doors unlocked and disconnect and remove the battery. Use your camera or camera phone to take lots of pictures for reference later and then it’s time to remove the air box and disconnect the multi plugs and various associated cables. You’ll find you need to remove the engine cover and you’ll be working from the air box back towards the driver’s side of your truck. I marked up with masking tape what each plug and earth lead was so I could map it out on the rebuild. You may also need to take off the mounting brackets, so lay them out on the cardboard identify and number to give the order they were removed. The easy ones are the plugs you can see and the likes of the air con pump can be a pain as you need an eyeball on the end of your finger to see what you’re doing and a double jointed backwards facing hand and your cooking with gas! Remember to insulate the glow plug lead as it’s a live connection just in case you need to re connect the battery to open the doors, better to be safe than sorry as you may forget and try to start it if you’re on auto pilot?

Now a word of warning here, I was fortunate enough that my air-con was degassed so I decided to remove the air-con pipe from the pump to get access to the multi plug but if you’re system is fully gassed do not do this as it’s very dangerous to you and the environment and it’s illegal to release the air-con gas into the atmosphere and you can go blind if it gets in your eyes and its bad for your lungs too. So with that in mind play safe and don’t just grab and yank.

Last edited by lookskyward1; 13-03-16 at 12:30 PM.
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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-03-16, 10:01 PM Thread Starter
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Part 11

Now I started to remove from the induction side of the engine first stopping at the mid-way point of the engine as I put a line down the middle of the lay out cardboard and everything removed from the passenger side was laid out on that side and the driver’s side on the opposite. You’ll get the idea as you lay the parts your taking off out again naming and numbering as you go, taking care as you go not to force anything or break anything and work your way towards the turbo. When you remove the induction pipework put a poly bag tie wrapped over the turbo ports so you don’t drop anything in the turbo.

Now I’m not sure if all the turbo’s across the range of D40’s are the same but on mine Nissan didn’t give much thought to future removal and it was on with nuts to the manifold and studs to the CAT meaning that you can’t just lift off the turbo. I had to remove the heat shields around the CAT to get access to the top of the CAT and unbolted so that I could lift it off as a complete unit (if your vertically challenged or built like Montgomery Burns you may need a hand to lift it off and whatever you do don’t drop it as it’s cast iron and it could break. (another tip for the rebuild I ordered up 30 off M6 x 10 stainless steel bolts and washers off EBAY as all the ones fitted to the heat shielding were rusted and rounded off so the vice grips were used where required to remove and if you have a ratchet combi 10mm spanner it’ll be easier to remove the bolts from the shield at the rear of the CAT)
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Last edited by lookskyward1; 13-03-16 at 12:32 PM.
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post #16 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-03-16, 10:03 PM Thread Starter
I'm now in 4th gear with power to spare!
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Stranraer
Posts: 138
Part 12

Once you have removed the turbo and laid it out you should now be left with the coolant and oil feed pipes to the turbo, put a poly bag or rubber glove over them to keep them clean and clear. I left the exhaust manifold on the head to aid lifting but if you decide to remove the manifold you will need to loosen the coolant banjo to gain access to the manifold bolts ( I sprayed them with WD40 and left them over night there is also a specific order to loosen the manifold nuts so refer to the manual) As landmannnn said earlier you may find you get a sheered stud or two and if like me you will be lucky and a few of the studs will just unscrew from the head but if you’re going for an outright replacement head like I was you won’t need to worry. If you do get a few sheered studs don’t panic have a chat with your head refurbisher and I’m sure they will help you out.

Last edited by lookskyward1; 13-03-16 at 12:33 PM.
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post #17 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-03-16, 10:06 PM Thread Starter
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Part 13

Now you should be onto the driver’s side, take lots of pictures again as you go and start with the induction pipe from the intercooler to the throttle body and as before lay out and number as you go, being careful not to sheer anything as all the mountings and parts are aluminium now. Before you remove any fuel pipes use your masking tape and identify the pipes and get your drill bits ready making sure they are clean and free of any burrs, disconnect the fuel pipes and use the plain shank of the drill as a bung to bung the pipes to keep them clean and stop the fuel from going all over the shop.

Work your way back towards the intake manifold and common rail, You will need to remove the supply pipe from the pump to the common rail as it feeds through the intake manifold and number and remove the injector pipes. Cover the fuel pump outlet with a poly bag or rubber glove to keep it clean. You should be able to remove common rail and lay it out and number it. I decided to remove the intake manifold and like the exhaust manifold there is a sequence to the nut removal so refer to the manual.

At this point you should be looking at the bare sided head, the rocker cover, the cross feed coolant pipe to the heater inlet which I removed and laid out along the driver’s side and the timing chain cover. The next stage is critical as you are going to set up the timing, remove the timing cover but before you do get a hold of a strong magnet as there is a location pin which will more than likely be loose or fell out into the timing chain cover. The magnet is used to hold the pin against the cover as you remove it and helps to stop it falling into the engine.

So again it’s time for a cuppa and a read of the manual to refresh your memory and it’s worth having a good read of this, Billcar's guide as the explanation of how to set up the timing is spot on and with good pictures.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...conversion.pdf
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Last edited by lookskyward1; 13-03-16 at 12:36 PM.
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post #18 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-03-16, 06:21 AM
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Something I like to do when I tackle a big job like this is taking pictures of everything I take off. Every conector, bracket, bold or nut. Just of everything. This way, when you start to reasemble everything you can go back to those pictures from back to front. You will never forget where exactly to put anything.
Nice write up. 😉

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post #19 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-03-16, 10:04 AM Thread Starter
I'm now in 4th gear with power to spare!
 
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Hi cedicol as you say photo's are the best memory jogger you could have, my strip down and rebuild was done over five weeks as I broke my arm and had to work inbetween and there was the little misshap with the camshaft sender disc mounting bolt sheering, all of which streached the job out over a five week period so you tend to forget how that cable was run or where the bracket was or what it looked like before you took it off, so photo's are a must as you never know when your going to fall off the roof and bounce off a stone wall!

Gavin
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post #20 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-03-16, 02:05 PM
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That's very true. Even taking notes and fotograaf them together with the part or location. Notes like short bolts in front. Have done a top - end of a 5.7 V8 Chevrolet. It was like a project taking several months. If I didn't have done this I would have had problems getting it back together.

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