Chasing my tail with lots of faults - Nissan-Navara.net
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 17-06-17, 10:13 PM Thread Starter
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Chasing my tail with lots of faults

Hi All, its been a while! New job and a new house have kept me pretty busy for the past 6 months so not much free time. Lots of changes since i was last here!

Im having some problems with the truck and wondering if any of you lot had some ideas. Its a euro 3 2006 auto.

To take it from the begining, i serviced it 2 weeks ago. Drove it fine for a week, took it to work and back on a friday. Went home to pick up tools to head up the coast to work on the caravan and i could tell just driving out of the estate something wasnt right. Sure enough got on the motorway, put my foot down and barely any power, revving like hell to get to 60mph and wouldnt go any more, it deffinately had no boost. Took it back and took the car up instead. Started looking at it on Monday after work. Plugged it in and had a P0234 code. Thought i might have dislodged a vac hose whilst changing the oil filter, went though and checked them all, got some from Paul at HCR so changed over what i he had anyway, as well as a second hand boost control solenoid from Paul and no difference. No more fault codes and no smoke at all, whilst still ticking over perfectly.

I put a vac hose direct from where it crosses the engine onto the turbo actuator and had a very sluggish take off then it would hit boost and shoot off. So i knew i had a turbo control fault, but i thought there might be something else wrong too due to the lack of power lower in the rev range. I picked up another second hand boost control solenoid today after testing both the first two as faulty going by the tests in the service manual. Bingo i suddenly have boost again, but its very similar to when i bypassed the boost solenoid. Very little power low down.

I thought this might not be turbo related as im below the boost range really. Watched the fuel rail pressure on live data and saw quite a lot of fluctuation, so got a new SCV from europarts and fitted that. Now got an even smoother tickover and a bit more power from stationary at junctions and the like, but something still isnt right.

I seem to have very little power until i hit 2500rpm, it suddenly flys off then dies back off again at 3000rpm. Once or twice when sitting right on 2700ish the turbo just dropped out and the truck started to decelerate, then after a few seconds back it came and it shot off again. When i got back i also had the P0234 code on again, which i haddnt got from numerous test drives with the second nackered boost control solenoid fitted.

So im now suspecting stuck vanes on the turbo, although the actuator arm seems to move freely with a pry bar through the wheel arch. And possibly still a vacuum leak that im missing somewhere. Although thought i might try swapping a Maf sensor over from a mates truck to see what happens there.

From my impression of how it works, the turbo is at max boost when there is barely any vacuum on it, and when the most vacuum is on it should be when its boosting at lower revs, so a weak vacuum could be a good start as to why i get a tonne of boost a bit higher in the rev range but not lower down.

Anyone else got any ideas? Always ran on Shell fuel and services every 6k miles. Genuine oil filter and mann fuel filter every time.

Rich
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 17-06-17, 10:45 PM
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Definitely boost related.

Firstly, are you 100%sure you have put the hoses on the solenoid correctly? Only asking because a few on here have got it wrong!

I don't quite understand your reference to moving the actuator through the wheel arch, are you sure you are looking at the right thing?

A couple of people have had split vacuum hoses, worth a check.
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 17-06-17, 10:48 PM Thread Starter
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Haha yep, could do it with a blindfold on now, but did double and triple check.

Yep, this is a euro 3 engine, i know the turbo setups are slightly different to the euro4. But the actuator arm is visable straight through the wheel arch, which is where i stuck a pry bar in and moved it up and down.

I thought i had checked and replaced all vac hoses, but i might put some low pressure onto them from a compressor tomorrow and try spraying soapy water to see if i can find any leaks im missing.

Thanks for the help so far
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 18-06-17, 03:50 AM
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just stating the obvious but have you performed an ecu/fuel pump reset? also, you should be able to see your actuator arm moving up and down when youre idling. i would put my money on a bad boost pressure sensor or faulty wastegate valve and/or actuator. it sounds like its having trouble getting to boost stage and when it gets there it overboosts, causes a fault on the boost pressure sensor and shuts it off. ill have another think about it!

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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 18-06-17, 11:11 AM Thread Starter
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Yep, done a few ecu/pump resets, i'll force another one from my Delphi diagnostics now just incase.

No, forgot to mention that, no bouncing. When you connect the vacuum pipe it fully retracts but no bouncing.

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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 18-06-17, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Rich. View Post
Yep, done a few ecu/pump resets, i'll force another one from my Delphi diagnostics now just incase.

No, forgot to mention that, no bouncing. When you connect the vacuum pipe it fully retracts but no bouncing.

Rich
yeah the fuel pump thing would be worth trying anyway even though this problem doesnt sound like its related to the fuel delivery system
i would put my money on the wastegate actuator so if its not bouncing at idle, i think you can get replacement wastegate actuators for about 50 pounds. but they can also be adjusted, it could be possible that yours has just adjusted out of spec by a loose lock nut. i wouldnt attempt adjusting myself.

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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 18-06-17, 12:17 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for that. The question now is is it worth doing an actuator or just getting a recon turbo. Ok slightly interesting one, monitored the intake manifold pressure and tested as it says in the manual, first graph shows a big spike over 200kpa, then as ot reaches 3600rpm it levels out at 150Kpa, then as i bring the revs up to 4000rpm, then pressure drops to around 135, as it should.

Did this a second time and i got a much better result, a slight spike up to 164kpa, then down to 150, then down to 135 as you rev upto 4000, then down to 100 as the engine idles.

However took it for a spin again and my drive diddnt reflect those results. Hit a slight hill, foot to the floor and with a bluetooth dongle plugged in and monitoring it on my phone, i had a good 18-19psi but couldnt get above 70 with it just revving away at 3000rpm. Not sure how the Hp guage on the app works, but it was only showing 122, not the 174 it should be, and i've certainly seem it up to 165hp before.

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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 18-06-17, 12:43 PM
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Thanks for that. The question now is is it worth doing an actuator or just getting a recon turbo. Ok slightly interesting one, monitored the intake manifold pressure and tested as it says in the manual, first graph shows a big spike over 200kpa, then as ot reaches 3600rpm it levels out at 150Kpa, then as i bring the revs up to 4000rpm, then pressure drops to around 135, as it should.

Did this a second time and i got a much better result, a slight spike up to 164kpa, then down to 150, then down to 135 as you rev upto 4000, then down to 100 as the engine idles.

However took it for a spin again and my drive diddnt reflect those results. Hit a slight hill, foot to the floor and with a bluetooth dongle plugged in and monitoring it on my phone, i had a good 18-19psi but couldnt get above 70 with it just revving away at 3000rpm. Not sure how the Hp guage on the app works, but it was only showing 122, not the 174 it should be, and i've certainly seem it up to 165hp before.

Rich
probably safer to go with the recon turbo but if its just the actuator it would be a pretty cheap and satisfying fix! there is bound to be someone on here who knows their turbos who could shed some more light. the diaphragm inside can break and the spring can also be the issue of it not returning, it sounds like the wastegate isnt operating properly causing low boost (sticking open?) and when it does boost it rapidly overboosts (sticking closed?)

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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 18-06-17, 04:03 PM
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Not sure if it is just terminology, but there is no wastegate. The variable vane nature of the turbo means a wastegate is not required.

Picking up on the actuator not bouncing at idle, that is definitely wrong. I still suggest there may be something wrong in the boost control circuit.... certainly you need to be sure before splashing out on recon turbos.
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 18-06-17, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by landmannnn View Post
Not sure if it is just terminology, but there is no wastegate. The variable vane nature of the turbo means a wastegate is not required.

Picking up on the actuator not bouncing at idle, that is definitely wrong. I still suggest there may be something wrong in the boost control circuit.... certainly you need to be sure before splashing out on recon turbos.
good catch on the variable vane design, i forgot they were like that. if my understanding is correct, while not requiring a wastegate the wastegate actuator varies the vanes by means of actuation by vacuum to the actuator. which still sounds like a actuator/vane/boost control problem to me but definitely worth checking over the upstream parts like solenoid and vacuum system to be absolutely sure as there are so many working parts to that system!

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