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Diff/Gearbox oil change

99K views 45 replies 16 participants last post by  Jason the Hut 
#1 ·
Going to do a full service on the truck. Know about engine oil. Have a bit of a grey area on transmission. I am thinking GL5 front and rear diffs but cant put this into gearbox so GL4 goes in yes? Also the amounts for each application please.

Thanks in advance :thumbright:
Al
 
#27 ·
If look back one page Chris Vince posted about Morris Lubricants.
They have online sales and a list of stockists.
 
#29 ·
2big2race said:
Can someone please just post a list of oils needed to change the :-
Front diff
Rear diff
Transfer box

I have read the posts and im still no further forward because one person says front diff sae 140 gl5 amd someone else says sae 90 gl5

Kind regards
As listed in Spirit's posting

"Rear LSD oil change every 36,000 or 3 years BUT if towing or used off-road quite a lot then every 18,000 miles. Use only LSD specific Hypoid oil. 1.3 ltrs.
Gearbox oil replace every 54,000 miles. SAE 75-85W GL-4. 5 ltrs.
Transfer box oil replace every 54,000 miles. Dexron ll or lll. 2.2 ltrs.
Front axel replace oil every 54,000 miles. Standard SAE 90W GL-5. 1.3 ltrs"

Or look at this 'lifted' page from the workshop manual
[attachment=0:2hpi1ifi]D22 Lubricant chart.png[/attachment:2hpi1ifi]
Where it says about 10% friction modifier I'd say :adminfinger and get a LSD specific oil designed to do the job correctly :awesomework
 

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#30 ·
I own a 2WD Frontier D22 with a TD27 engine. The correct grade of oil Nissan recommends is in the owners manual I believe it's 80W90. I am located in the Caribbean region not sure if the same grade is recommended for other regions in the world.

I use Amsoil Synthetic Severe gear oil 75W90
2 Quarts for the gearbox
1.5 Quarts for the Differential.

Hope this is helpful.
 
#32 ·
Reccomend getting the manual mate, but its the experts here that helped me understand what it all meant. Anyway I changed the front and rear diff oils yesterday with the correct oils (used comma brand), which my motor factors stock but nothing come up on their computer for our trucks, so as far as buying them, make a shopping list from this thread!

Just had that minor setback yesterday of discovering the sump plug washer from the engine in my bowl of waste oil as I was clearing up afterwards..a few choice words and a hot swap later and its all good!

That oil in the diffs smells nasty, and has some additives that can cause allergic reactions so wear gloves and be careful :)
 
#33 ·
chris vince said:
gazthekiller said:
wozizname said:
Hi Bounce :)
Done exactly this job last weekend so have the info :clappy:
Front axle SAE 140W API GL-5 (2 1/4 pints req'd). I couldn't get a straight 140W grade but put in SAE 85W/140 grade.
Transmission SAE 75W/85 API GL-4 (8 5/8 pints req'd).
Transfer box DEXRON ATF III automatic transmission fluid API GL-4 (2 quarts).
Rear axle Hypoid LSD oil API GL-5 (2 1/4 pints).

DO NOT USE GL-4 in GL-5 and visa-versa where recommended as this will damage these units :!:
I found the front axle, gearbox and transfer box oils in good condition after 70K miles but the rear LSD oil was VERY black and burnt. This LSD oil should be changed every 36K miles BTW :shock: Also do not use any of these so called 'oil modifiers' to change gear oils into LSD oil as they're a load of ***** IMO, get the right oil for the job :thumbright:

Woz
Woz
My motor factors supplied me with GL-4 semi synth 75w 90 for my transfer (54 plate), no mention of dexron ar ATF on the bottle? Is that ok as its the same thing that comes up on the comma site?
I used the same grade in my transfer box, I tow a 4 wheel trailer a lot, and went for the extra heavy duty protection of a proper gear oil rather than an ATF based lubricant.
The workshop manual states either type can be used.
My thinking was that there are no gears as such that require changing so a thicker oil won't affect driveability.
I used GL4/5 fully synthetic in the gearbox, made it much smoother and slicker on the changes.
All done mate, I also opted for semi synthetic 75w90 GL-4 in both the gearbox and the transfer box, and all changes are smooth, and I like the idea of the heavy duty protection as you said :)
 
#34 ·
GazNav D22 said:
[quote="chris vince":1oez7mbf]
gazthekiller said:
wozizname said:
Hi Bounce :)
Done exactly this job last weekend so have the info :clappy:
Front axle SAE 140W API GL-5 (2 1/4 pints req'd). I couldn't get a straight 140W grade but put in SAE 85W/140 grade.
Transmission SAE 75W/85 API GL-4 (8 5/8 pints req'd).
Transfer box DEXRON ATF III automatic transmission fluid API GL-4 (2 quarts).
Rear axle Hypoid LSD oil API GL-5 (2 1/4 pints).

DO NOT USE GL-4 in GL-5 and visa-versa where recommended as this will damage these units :!:
I found the front axle, gearbox and transfer box oils in good condition after 70K miles but the rear LSD oil was VERY black and burnt. This LSD oil should be changed every 36K miles BTW :shock: Also do not use any of these so called 'oil modifiers' to change gear oils into LSD oil as they're a load of ***** IMO, get the right oil for the job :thumbright:

Woz
Woz
My motor factors supplied me with GL-4 semi synth 75w 90 for my transfer (54 plate), no mention of dexron ar ATF on the bottle? Is that ok as its the same thing that comes up on the comma site?
I used the same grade in my transfer box, I tow a 4 wheel trailer a lot, and went for the extra heavy duty protection of a proper gear oil rather than an ATF based lubricant.
The workshop manual states either type can be used.
My thinking was that there are no gears as such that require changing so a thicker oil won't affect driveability.
I used GL4/5 fully synthetic in the gearbox, made it much smoother and slicker on the changes.
All done mate, I also opted for semi synthetic 75w90 GL-4 in both the gearbox and the transfer box, and all changes are smooth, and I like the idea of the heavy duty protection as you said :)[/quote:1oez7mbf]
Good, good :thumbleft: You can forget about doing them again for another 60,000 miles :thumbright:
Keep yer eye on the rear LSD though Gaz if yer towing/off roading because the oil gets knackered before the 32,000 mile recommended replacement period :wink:
Done mine again at 25,000 because I popped out the filler plug, stuck my finger in the oil and it was black as a hat :shock: I reckon it's down to towing and other heavy loads.
 
#35 ·
Mine was as black as a witches tit too mate, it's too easy to do to leave it more than 20k for the sake of about £8 of oil, so will be keeping an eye on it :)
 
#37 ·
diggerdale said:
All done ! the oil was a bit more expensive from my local dealers but available . I found that using an old 5ltr garden sprayer without the lance was the easiest way to pump the oil in the gearbox and the front diff the others were ok with the bottles .
Good idea mate I did it with the bottles, was a right tw@t lol
 
#38 ·
diggerdale said:
All done ! the oil was a bit more expensive from my local dealers but available . I found that using an old 5ltr garden sprayer without the lance was the easiest way to pump the oil in the gearbox and the front diff the others were ok with the bottles .
a drill pump works great for this, you can pick them up for around 10£
http://www.google.ie/imgres?imgurl=http ... g&dur=3882
 
#39 ·
hi i'm a bit confused just got back from the motor factors,
and on there system (comma oil) it states 75W90 GL5, for front diff and main gearbox,
so they gave me Comma SX75W90 GL-5 (semi synthetic)
But this is not right is it?
 
#41 ·
Cheers Chris,
so the 75W90 semi synth is ok for the main gearbox? what is the GL4 and GL5 mean?
as what I have is SX75W90 GL5
 
#42 ·
coops said:
Cheers Chris,
so the 75W90 semi synth is ok for the main gearbox? what is the GL4 and GL5 mean?
as what I have is SX75W90 GL5
:+1 with Chris as fully synthetic is the way forward (no pun intended)
GL4 and GL5 is the oils 'make-up' and GL4 is what you need for your transmission as the GL5 will attack the syncro's.
Using fully synthetic removes all the problems with an oils 'make-up'.
I got mine from here as it was the cheapest I could find http://www.smithandallan.com/prodpage.aspx?id=1849
My truck and hannah77's are running it with no problems.
 
#43 ·
If it is straight GL-5 do not use it in the gearbox it will have additives that could corrode the yellow metals in the baulk rings etc and in time wreck it, the gearbox needs GL-4 additives, as per Woz's earlier post.
As I mentioned before, IMHO take it back and get FULLY synthetic gear oil, it may say it is GL1-5 (all manufacturers have different literature), if it says GL1-5 and is FULLY synthetic do not worry about the GL-5 grading, as in fully synthetic the damaging additive sulphur is not used and a synthetic replacement is provided to give the extreme pressure properties.
So by using F/S GL1-5 oil you get the best of all worlds, extreme pressure protection (useful if towing) without the corrosive chemicals and nice easy slick gear changes even on the very coldest mornings.
Hope this makes sense?
 
#44 ·
Just spoke to the motor factors.
they are ordering in for me some 75W90 FULLY SYNTHETIC oil for the gearbox and transfer box,
will be here Tuesday, :)
 
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