Al's D40 project - Page 2 - Nissan-Navara.net
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post #11 of 63 (permalink) Old 10-07-16, 08:42 AM
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Great thread. Keep the updates coming.
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post #12 of 63 (permalink) Old 15-07-16, 03:27 PM Thread Starter
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Bit of an update. the head has failed the pressure test, and the engineers pointed out how hot the head has been by the marks showing the disturbed valve seats. in their words, "its been properly cooked"

So now I'm looking at a bare or complete cylinder head, or even a known good engine. anybody able to steer me in the right direction of any of these? Starting with the milner bare heads. are these good quality?

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post #13 of 63 (permalink) Old 15-07-16, 04:10 PM
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I don't know about the quality of the Milners engine parts, but Bilcar sell reconditioned d40 engines with all the new bits (timing chain upgrade etc) already done, and their reputation speaks for itself
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post #14 of 63 (permalink) Old 15-07-16, 08:33 PM Thread Starter
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Yeh, you get what you pay for. It's a 200k miler and I just wanted to get it running as winter hack, towing, shifting type of motor. Bodywork isn't the tidiest etc etc. I want to get it up and running with a decent level of reliability, but I do have a budget. The bottom end looks fine, and I'm perfectly prepared to put the hours in, just not the cash if I can avoid it.

Buying a new bare head will need the valves grinding in and the cams re shimming. I'm happy to do this and even the engineering shop today said if I need shims, they have bucket loads from scrapped navara heads. (Nissan accounts for 50% of their business lol)

I've spoken to billcar and I'm looking at 785+ The dreaded for a new head fitted with recon parts all shimmed ready to go. I might go this route, but if I can source a decent bare head that's of known quality, then with a bit of elbow grease I could save 400+ quid for essentially the same thing.

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post #15 of 63 (permalink) Old 16-07-16, 01:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Propshaft View Post
Bit of an update. the head has failed the pressure test, and the engineers pointed out how hot the head has been by the marks showing the disturbed valve seats. in their words, "its been properly cooked"

So now I'm looking at a bare or complete cylinder head, or even a known good engine. anybody able to steer me in the right direction of any of these? Starting with the milner bare heads. are these good quality?
I think they are out of stock. Most of these bits from Milner originate from Thailand and are of resonable quality, never had a problem with their stuff.
There's quite a few on ebay around the 400 mark, can't see them lasting 100's of thousands of miles.
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post #16 of 63 (permalink) Old 16-07-16, 02:22 PM Thread Starter
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I think they are out of stock. Most of these bits from Milner originate from Thailand and are of resonable quality, never had a problem with their stuff.
There's quite a few on ebay around the 400 mark, can't see them lasting 100's of thousands of miles.
yup, phoned this morning. they have my number if theres an improvement, but at the moment its 2 months wait.

I've seen the ones on Ebay, and my train of thought goes something like this:

There wont be many places on this planet that cast this head
Milner sell for 400 - the ones on Ebay are around 400
Billcar sell a non OE head built up with recon parts for just short of 800. is this a 400 head?
The forum doesn't have a lot (none in fact) of posts regarding poor quality Ebay heads and from what I can see there are LOTS sold on ebay

My truck will be in semi retirement. it might do another 5 years and around 5k a year maybe - 25k


It's a fine line to tread. when I spoke to Billcar yesterday and got a few prices for bits, and I was up at around 2000 in no time. You get to thinking, well If i'm putting a good bit on there, I would be just well doing this, that and next thing. Before you know it your budget is bust!

Different story with a sub 100k truck in otherwise good nick, but with this one I think I might just go for a bare 400 ebay head and keep to a reasonable budget. I think based on above that these EBAY heads maybe perfectly ok anyway.

Al

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post #17 of 63 (permalink) Old 11-08-16, 10:31 PM Thread Starter
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No huge update. holidays, family and work commitments have meant little to no work on it since the last update.

Tonight I removed the lower timing cover and took some wear measurements on the lower chain.

0.38mm is the as new reading, and with a random selection of around 10 links I get anything from 0.40 to over 0.5mm. So uneven wear and some out of acceptable limits. otherwise no smoking gun as such.

I've been doing some pricing and research (thanks Dave at Billcar!) and its only a couple hundred extra (if that) to go duplex over genuine Nissan simplex, so duplex kit it is. Also just going to go for a recon head from Billcar, with time being the main issue. grinding in 16 valves and the re-shimming process is time I could spend elsewhere.

a smidge over 2k from Billcar alone, with a few odds and sods off ebay, Rich, Milner, still within budget and still a reasonable cost for a Navara which should be reliable at least!

Tonight's effort below. Schoolboy error of not removing the crank pulley woodruff, and it dropped into the sump. it was visible and pulled out easily with a mag screwdriver - Phew!!!

Top tip for locking the crank pulley. use the old belt and lock it round the pulley like a strap wrench, and put the open loop round the waterpump shaft. locks it solid!


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Last edited by Propshaft; 11-08-16 at 10:33 PM.
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post #18 of 63 (permalink) Old 14-08-16, 08:18 PM Thread Starter
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Another minor update. All stripped back as far as I need to go.

did some significant homework before stripping the primary chain. Reading from a combination of the duplex chain upgrade document (from the technical library), the maintenance manual and a bit of googling (mainly to see what the vacuum pump looks like, since you are removing it blind.

some links to useful threads/info:

https://www.nissan-navara.net/45-d40-...w-inspect.html
https://www.nissan-navara.net/28-how-...-download.html

(west Yorkshire engines! seems a bit of a douce, but gets you a good look in there and some basic principals)

with the cylinder head off, it makes a couple of things easier than the guide. these are 1, you can freely rotate the crank before starting the stripdown and line up the fuel pump locking hole, with TDC and the double marks on the crank gear with the balancer idler wheel all together. (Rotate the crank round a few times until they all line up)= no need to paint a mark.

I now have the utmost respect for anyone who manages to remove the vacuum pump with the cylinder head attached!! with the head off, you can swing the fule pump right out of the way which lets you in to all the vac pump bolt.

Another tip, a slim tent peg (we all have then knocking around!) is ideal for locking the idler gear.

A slight bit of marking on the chain guides and no obvious signs of wear. the vac pump is out for the duplex upgrade, but i'm still in a dilemma about cheaping it up!!

a few hours cleaning off old liquid gasket and prepping for the rebuild.

One last thing, I took out the thermostat today, and dunked it in boiling water - completely dead. I guess this is the root cause.

A few pics. With any luck i'll start receiving some parts to build it back up later this week!









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post #19 of 63 (permalink) Old 18-08-16, 06:48 PM Thread Starter
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Let the rebuild commence. I'll battle on less one kidney!

Interestingly the Billcar aftermarket radiator is slighty narrower by a 3mm and it seems to be an auto one. will check this is ok tomorrow.


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post #20 of 63 (permalink) Old 23-08-16, 07:44 PM Thread Starter
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Update from this weekends antics.

made a bit of a boob with the bolts for the vacuum pump which resulted in a need to remove and inspect the rear timing chain case. (I mixed up the thermostat housing bolts which are about 4mm longer with the vac pump bolts) by the time I noticed I heard a seal popping and a crack. oh ****! removed for repair and inspection and fortunately the situation was recoverable after a reseal, but it had the bonus of making the head easier to fit, and got all the gaskets replaced in there. (all mating surfaces checked as flat, a tiny crack which was ground out and repaired.

Anyways, after that little boob, the rebuild commenced.

all duplex'd up, head torqued on, pulley back on (see pic for my cheat for holding the main pulley)
what remains is wiring, ancillaries, injectors, radiator etc.

















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