Intercooler blown? 12 plate Navara V9X - Nissan-Navara.net
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post #1 of 41 (permalink) Old 26-05-19, 01:28 PM Thread Starter
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Intercooler blown? 12 plate Navara V9X

Hi. I'm new to posting here, although have been a "reader" for a while - and benefited from lots of good advice so far, so thanks!


My truck is in limp mode most of the time, and I've just found my intercooler looks like it might be blown - photo attached.
I've searched the forums and picked up as much as I can, which has got me to this point.

The truck is on a 12 plate with about 70k miles, FSH with Nissan for the first 5 years and local garage for the last 2.
The local garage did an EGR blank & delete and power boost in March 2018. (Second EGR fail in 6 years, first fixed by Nissan under warranty at 2 years old - so I didn't want to fork out for a third valve). That is the only mod.
I wasn't fussed about the power boost, and may now regret saying yes - they said it was included in the price and they'd done loads before ...

Limp mode started as intermittent a few weeks ago - engine re-start cleared it for sometimes a week, sometimes a couple of days. No check engine light at all. The Cruise Set light flashes when in limp - I can't find any reference to that in the manuals.

Last service was end March this year (new fuel & air filters fitted). Limp mode was intermittent at the last service and they couldn't identify the issue.
Limp is now pretty much constant.

It's got a P012b code logged (thanks to this forum for the Torque OBD recommendation) and a look around checking the charge air path shows two vanes on the IC bowed and lots of oily gunk. I think I can feel air escaping although it's hard to tell with the engine fan also going, plus the air feels cold and I'd expect it to be warm? All pipes appear to be sound.

Please can anyone help with questions?

Has anyone seen an IC with this type of damage?
Could it be caused by the turbo boost set too high with the March 18 remap? (Car was fine for 10 months after, noticeably quicker)
It seems likely to me that a leaking IC could cause the boost pressure drop and give the P012b code - does that sound likely?
Any tips for testing for a leak before I remove the IC?
Does anyone know where I can either get the IC reconditioned or buy a replacement - and likely costs? A web search so far is looking like 400+
Does the bumper have to come off to remove/replace the IC? The workshop manual says it does, but has anyone done one just removing the grille?
Any tips or things to watch for removing the bumper and grille?

I've got the workshop manuals (Spain and Thai) on pdf - I'm happy to share them via Dropbox if anyone on here needs them.

I'm sure there are other questions I should be asking, so any and all help will be appreciated.
Thanks in anticipation, Mike
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post #2 of 41 (permalink) Old 26-05-19, 02:56 PM
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Mine split at the join between the the matrix and the end piece. Not sure on the replacement process as the dealer did mine under warranty.

You can normally see the leak as there is enough oil vapour in the intake tract to cause oil to seep out. Hard to tell if the remap and boost increase has caused the intercooler to swell, although it is generally the case that they are not very robust.

New ones are expensive, I have not heard of anyone reconditioning them.
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post #3 of 41 (permalink) Old 26-05-19, 03:58 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the quick reply. I think first action is try to check the boost under load, then go back to the garage to see what they say.
I know there are people on here who have upgraded the ICs, so maybe that's an option.
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post #4 of 41 (permalink) Old 26-05-19, 04:16 PM
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How much boost does your reader say you are getting? I wouldn't have thought much over standard? ,

If mine went again I would get one made up, I wouldn't have thought much more expensive than a Nissan one (billcar at 400 seems the best priced for a Nissan one)
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post #5 of 41 (permalink) Old 26-05-19, 04:28 PM Thread Starter
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I wouldn't have thought the remap would increase the maximum boost beyond the design limit, but I've no idea how the remap works.
We have my wife's family coming over, so I'll check the boost tomorrow and report back. I'd rather be working on the Truck today 🤔😦
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post #6 of 41 (permalink) Old 26-05-19, 07:48 PM
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No point purchasing yet another Nissan intercooler, like the egr valve, they are a well known VX9 weak point.
There are plenty of modified better more efficient ones out there.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233053830760?ul_noapp=true

Pathfinder Tekna, 90 Defender 200tdi.
New Toyota Hilux Icon crew cab. Its good, but not that good!
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post #7 of 41 (permalink) Old 27-05-19, 08:19 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the link Dave.

After a partial clean of the IC, it looks like it's been hit and so the damage was externally caused.
Also the Torque log shows the turbo pressure not going above 22psi, so I think I've just been unlucky. I'll try a wallpaper steamer with a nozzle to clean the oily gunk away from the damaged area to check it is leaking and see if I can plug any split.
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post #8 of 41 (permalink) Old 27-05-19, 08:45 PM
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Worth a try, soldering would be best. A radiator specialist would be able to solder/braze it easily, if you are lucky you will have one nearby.

I would use an aerosol can of brake cleaner, much quicker and more effective than steam.
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post #9 of 41 (permalink) Old 27-05-19, 09:38 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the tip, I'll get some brake cleaner tomorrow morning
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post #10 of 41 (permalink) Old 29-05-19, 11:24 AM Thread Starter
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Front end stripped - the manual was fine on the order of removing the parts and mostly right on location of screws and clips, so not a hard job, just time consuming removing the bits to get at the bumper bolts.

The intercooler is definitely blown - felt like a hair dryer if you put your hand down the back of it with the engine on tickover. Also there's obvious impact damage.

I've found a place in Liverpool who do radiator and IC repairs. They'll fix it for 60 so taking it there tomorrow when I can borrow a car.

Does anyone know what the sensor is on the intercooler? (see pic). It's not mentioned in the workshop manuals.
It looks like it's only held on by one bolt, but not sure if it's a pressure sensor (so there'd be another hole into the IC underneath the sensor?) or a temperature sensor. I'm not sure whether to take it off before the until goes for repair or leave it on.
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