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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Experiencing another weird weird issue with my beloved D40.
The car starts great and sounds as punchy and responsive as I can remember. However now more than before I have this constant cutting off at idle or when the vehicle is at low revs. The only way to get around this for a short while is squeeze the primer bulb(which I replaced in 2019). After some priming the car starts and runs for awhile but cuts off not long after. Primer bulb softens and the step can be repeated to get the car running.
Since getting my Turbo Rebuilt the only change would be adding SHIELD Injector Cleaner and 60L of Low Sulphur Diesel(best grade of diesel available in Zambia). The Car ran fine till about a quarter of the Tank was used and now I have this persistent shutting down issue.
OBD shows no error codes, stats look relatively normal to me, posting some screenshots and recoded data.
I have tried the Fuel Pump reset which has oddly never worked.
Filter was changed at about 196300 miles, Injector Cleaner added at 196563.

Could it be air lock from some piping? Everything looks ok from face value.

Or perhaps my fuel pump is done? Any step on checking this or anything at all I can try?

Link to OBD Recording => 2021-05-16 17-14-54.csv
 

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The suction control valve failing does cause stalling, you don't get a code initially, but you do when it gets worse.

I am assuming the fuel filter is relatively new.
Experiencing another weird weird issue with my beloved D40.
The car starts great and sounds as punchy and responsive as I can remember. However now more than before I have this constant cutting off at idle or when the vehicle is at low revs. The only way to get around this for a short while is squeeze the primer bulb(which I replaced in 2019). After some priming the car starts and runs for awhile but cuts off not long after. Primer bulb softens and the step can be repeated to get the car running.
Since getting my Turbo Rebuilt the only change would be adding SHIELD Injector Cleaner and 60L of Low Sulphur Diesel(best grade of diesel available in Zambia). The Car ran fine till about a quarter of the Tank was used and now I have this persistent shutting down issue.
OBD shows no error codes, stats look relatively normal to me, posting some screenshots and recoded data.
I have tried the Fuel Pump reset which has oddly never worked.
Filter was changed at about 196300 miles, Injector Cleaner added at 196563.

Could it be air lock from some piping? Everything looks ok from face value.

Or perhaps my fuel pump is done? Any step on checking this or anything at all I can try?

Link to OBD Recording => 2021-05-16 17-14-54.csv
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The suction control valve failing does cause stalling, you don't get a code initially, but you do when it gets worse.

I am assuming the fuel filter is relatively new.
Interesting, never thought of that at all. Does the priming also tie into this theory?

Fuel Filter is relatively new. Perhaps I should replace the hose clamps aswell just to be certain?

Starting to wonder if I bought a lemon. Already have pending repairs on transmission and suspension and now this. Frustrating...
 

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That Suction control valve is a really common fault. Actually common on many diesels, not just Nissan.

The 05 to 10 D40s do have a few regular issues, normally not to expensive to sort.

I assume you have the bottom suspension ball joint knocking and the rear joint on the front propshaft worn out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That Suction control valve is a really common fault. Actually common on many diesels, not just Nissan.

The 05 to 10 D40s do have a few regular issues, normally not to expensive to sort.

I assume you have the bottom suspension ball joint knocking and the rear joint on the front propshaft worn out.
Hi landmannnn,

I'll give that a try and perhaps start by replacing the SCV. If I still have some issues I will try replace the filter with whatever my Nissan dealer has. Probably between the two I will have ascertained the state of my Fuel Pump aswell.

On my transmission I randomly get this weird grinding noise when I step on the clutch and often cant actually engage the gear till I double clutch. Mostly happens in Reverse and low gears.
I am running a relatively new Flywheel, Clutch Plate, Pressure Plate and Thrust Bearing. Changed the fluid in the transmission and diff at about the same time as I added the fuel additive. Issue seemed to go away from a dead cold start but seems more present in warmer conditions.

My suspension pretty much is overdue on a change of bushes and shocks which I actually already purchased. Just need the car running right and I can get to that. Will just need to top with ball joints like you said and the linkages the perhaps the wheel hub as well come to think of it. Left one seems most worn and is probably the reason my ABS sensor on that side is iffy.
 

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Sounds like some work to do, at least you don't live in the UK where the suspension fixings get very rusty and hard to remove. The transmission could be the spigot bush.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Sounds like some work to do, at least you don't live in the UK where the suspension fixings get very rusty and hard to remove. The transmission could be the spigot bush.
Funny thing about that is my D40 is originally from the UK. Haha

I'll certainly look into that "spigot bush" as soon as I can.

Just wanted to pick your brain alil on the SCV if I may. I see there's two types one long and the other short. And watched some video recommending the longer ones for Toyota's. Im not quite certain which one mine has currently but is there some info around this I could make reference to or should I just look for a like for like swap?
 
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