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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone.

I’m new to the forum. Just introduced myself via the appropriate thread.

I’ve got a starting problem with my Navara which has been haunting me for a little while. I’ve watched a load of YouTube videos and I‘ve read a lot of threads on here looking for clues and things to try, and, right now I’m thinking that it could be a problem with an earth connection, so I thought I’d run it past you on here to see if you can give me any pearls of wisdom.

At first the problem seemed to be presenting as a dead battery. Dim lights on dash and slow turn over. Not enough power to start the engine. So I jump started her off my other car, thinking it was maybe because I’d only done short trips in the dark with her.

The second time it happened I was running some errands and she started up and was running fine. I had to stop briefly at the house to grab something. The engine was off for about 1minute. I turned the ignition to restart the engine and it was completely dead, so I jump started her again. I left the engine running and while I was disconnecting the jump leads the engine cut out before I could get back in to take her for a long run.

This happened once or twice more before I took the truck to Halfords to ask them to run a battery check because the battery light was staying on even after a reasonable run. When I bought the truck the seller told me that they just put a new battery on and gave her a full service, so I wasn’t expecting the battery to be at fault. Halfords equipment said the battery needed replacing, so I dug out the receipt for the battery and took it to get it replaced.

New battery in, but the battery light is still staying on,( together with an amber light to the left of it. I don’t know what that is) So I’ve been avoiding taking her out anywhere in the dark or running any accessories since changing the battery, thinking that it may be an alternator fault.
Today I ran some tests with a multimeter.

Engine off - battery is giving just under 12 v
Engine running - battery is giving pretty much the same reading where I’m expecting it to climb to around 14v if the alternator is doing it’s job.
Engine running accessories turned on - battery reading just under 11v
Engine off - battery reading climbs back up to just under 12v.

Conclusion at this point - Battery is good. possibly failed alternator.

Checked wiring to the alternator to make sure all connections in order, checked it’s turning when the engine is running, checked the belt is tight when engine off.

Removed battery terminals, sanded, cleaned and put Vaseline on to ensure good connection. Tightened well.

Checked resistance to ensure earths are ok.
engine block - 0.000 ohms
Alternator case - 0.003 ohms
Body earth above o/s headlight - 0.003 ohms (disconnected & cleaned it)
Engine earth ( black & yellow cable running from -ive terminal to engine block) - 1 ohm

conclusion at this point : possible alternator fault & bad engine earth.

Reconnected everything. Problem is still presenting as though the battery is dead, but the multimeter is still showing just under 12v across the terminals and the engine is cutting out just after the engine has been jump started which suggests to me that the fuel pump is stopping as soon as the jump cables are disconnected. The delay is the residual fuel in the system?

I had to stop working on it this afternoon because the weather was too bad and it’s promising to be bad for the rest of the week so any input you can give me in the meantime would be gratefully received.
Everything I’ve done so far has been based on stuff I’ve seen on YouTube or I’ve read on here. I’m not a mechanic or auto electrician. I’m just not afraid to get my hands dirty and have a go at solving a problem before admitting defeat and taking her to the garage.

very many thanks in advance :)
 

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The Battery if good should be showing 12.6 -12.8 across the terminals, less than 12volts suggest a bad battery most likely the cause.
 

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Is there a 12v+ supply to the alternator when the ignition is on? check before you write off alternator.
What model nav have you got?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hi popsdosh,

she’s an old 2001 D22 2.5 diesel 1.5 cab

I was getting a reading of just under 12v with engine off and with engine running. That was the reading taken across the battery terminals.

The first battery was new at 23/10/2019. I got that replaced 10 days ago under guarantee and these are the readings that I’m getting off the new one now.

she wouldn’t start for me again today, but I didn’t have time to jump start her, so I’ll see if I can do it tomorrow and take the readings again.
 

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Yes obviously not charging !!! As I say first check is if there is a 12v feed to the alternator when the ignition is turned on ( not with engine running) as without this it cannot charge .Changing the alternator without this feed will change nothing . Its a common issue in older vehicles .
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I just found & read this


Car Battery Voltage
what voltage car battery
A fully charged battery should read 12.6 volts or above. When the engine is running, that number should be between 13.7 and 14.7 volts.
If the battery is reading at 12.4 volts, then it’s 75% charged. At 12 volts, it drops to 25%. Once the battery reads at 11.8 volts, it’s considered to be completely discharged.

So, it looks like the new battery is also dead and I’ll have to go back to the motor factors to tell them that the second battery they’ve supplied is also dead.

What are the chances?
 

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Sorry but there must still be a reason the alternator is not increasing the voltage when the engines running . Certainly a 12v battery would struggle to start a vehicle . Personally before you write off a second battery disconnect it from the truck and charge then check voltage is up to charged if so connect to vehicle and see if the voltage has stayed up to check if there is a major drain. Also check alternator +ve feed as described before as it cannot recharge battery without that.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Update on the battery :

63870
63869
63871


So it looks like the battery is dropping charge.

I've just put it back on charge again to see if I can get the voltage up a bir higher to put it back on the truck and take her for a bit of a run this afternoon to see what happens then.

It DOES look as though I may be going back to the auto factors for another replacement because this one seems to be failing to hold charge.

I'll take these photos with me this time I've also got a little video of the voltage dropping just after I disconnected the charger last night.

I'm thinking that the alternator could also be knackered, so I'm not counting my chickens yet.

I checked the voltage at the positive terminal of the alternator yesterday with ignition on only and it was reading the same as the voltage across the battery terminals. I'll check it again when I reconnect the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Update on my problem.

A long enough break in the wind & rain let me get under the bonnet again today.

I took the yoieback to the motor factors and they changed it again. The voltage leaving the shop was on 12.58. They told me that would be fine but to let them know if I had any further problems.

I decided to have bash at getting the alternator out today and now I need help with that, please.

I got everything disconnected from the alternatorapart from the plastic plug and the alternator itself was at the point where it was loose, but just seemed to be pivoting on something.

I gave the plastic plug a good wiggle, but couldn’t get it off and I didn’t want to risk breaking it. Is there a knack to it? Are there any clips that I need to depress to get it off?

Can somebody just confirm for me a) that there only 2 mounting bolts on the alternator case, one at the belt adjuster and one at the bottom / back and b) that the one at the back should be a long one going straight through. I’ve only got one short one at the bottom and I feel like there should either be one long one or 2 short ones holding it in place.

thanks in advance
 
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