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You're doing not bad at all Al.

That vacuum pump is extremely awkward if the head is on. Given the amount of stripping down you've done, it's no surprise you got a couple oof bolts mixed up, well recovered though. :thumbright:
 

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Discussion Starter #24
You're doing not bad at all Al.

That vacuum pump is extremely awkward if the head is on. Given the amount of stripping down you've done, it's no surprise you got a couple oof bolts mixed up, well recovered though. :thumbright:
I've id'd or popped into cardboard pretty much every bolt, however the last thing I removed was the vac pump. Thinking it would be the first thing going on again I didn't ID them, then a few hours later I removed the thermostat. 3 near identical bolts!

Wow that's an impressive amount of work. Though one thing I can say is for the size of the engine bay that looks quite a cramped working area you have:surprise:

If you don't mind me asking, which engineering house did you use?
Faulkners in Blackburn, although all they did was pressure test the old head and fail it. Not sure what you mean about the space?
 

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Progress!

managed to get a good day at it today.

Radiator in, injectors in, all belts, lubes, coolant topped up.

popped in a new air filter and found it a bit of a mess - see pic! cant imaging anything except water doing that to it :surprise:


MAF was pretty minty so that got a good clean.

Was expecting a nightmare priming the fuel, but a good pump before starting, then a 10 second crank, another prime, 10 seconds crank and away it went.

She purrs like a pussy cat :nerd2:

one minor issue. I don't think the new alternator pulley is the correct one. this one looks slightly offset. I thought they were all the same? doesn't seem to want to throw the belt, but if anyone has any info?

Managed to find a broken front spring when I was checking for leaks :crying: !!












cheers, Al
 

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the alternator pulley has 2 options one with a spacer one without if your belt is trying to drop off the cab side of the pulley you may have a spacer left on the shaft you dont need

*edit*
Just noticed on the pic you have the silver pulley does it have the spline fittings? if so i had the same issue and the aforementioned space was the problem the mine had the spacer built into the pulley the one i removed didnt.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Awesome work! :partycheer:
When will it be finished?
That's the thing, went into work Monday and was sent to Norway the next day. Been here 10 days and don't think I'll be home until mid October :surprise:

Project on hold!!!

the alternator pulley has 2 options one with a spacer one without if your belt is trying to drop off the cab side of the pulley you may have a spacer left on the shaft you dont need

*edit*
Just noticed on the pic you have the silver pulley does it have the spline fittings? if so i had the same issue and the aforementioned space was the problem the mine had the spacer built into the pulley the one i removed didnt.
Excellent info. I didn't have the tools, so dropped all the bits off at a garage next to work and gave an apprentice a fiver! Should be an easy/free fix.

Al
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Operation "Triggers broom"

Right, if I had know about the condition all along, I would certainly not have taken this on, but due to doing the engine first, me being a new owner and it being out of MOT I went and took the tub off to do what I thought was just a bit of strengthening around the front tub mount, front spring hanger. With the tub off , pressure washer and decent hammer, it became clear that I was stuck with a pretty bad chassis overall. I've started, so i'll finish, although at times I've been pretty close to just cutting my losses and walking away. Well, below shows where i'm at. I've fully descaled right up to the gearbox crossmember, and found that the corrosion only really starts from behind the front fuel tank crossmember.

I've removed the cab mounting bolts except the front two which are only loose. this let me jack the cab up 4-6 inches or so. Then I dropped the chassis to create enough of a gap to get access all round the rear cab mount and front spring mount where i'll need to fully re-chassis and strengthen.

The o/s rail is in better condition as they always are, however where it isn't perforated, the steel is thin enough to warrant repair. Going in this far its really not worth leaving any of the rails alone :(

Anyways, i'm probably a good 16 hours in, with the majority of descaling done,(only the internals left as I work my way back)

once the back section is done i'll take out a couple of inspection hatches in the front rails to clean out and treat.

Other badly affected areas are the two thin x-members, but only at the sides. I've had to cut them back anyway to allow the inside chassis plate to run right through. after these are in i'll rebuild the x-members.





See why its pointless to try and treat an older chassis internally. The previous owners advised he treated it around a year ago with waxoyl. I found a few little blobs, but otherwise you wouldn't know.















Tackling this isn't for the faint hearted!

Al
 

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DAMN!!!!!!! that is some crazy bad rust right there. I mean it's not an "old" car compared with many older vehicles you see on the road. I never realised just how thin the chassis walls were. Makes me laugh and be very shocked when you see how thick the chassis metal is compared with your rear tow bar metal which must be about 3 times as thick. Does anyone make "new" galvanized chassis that you could just swap everything onto? Surely that would/could be a better long term solution to all Nav owners?
 

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Discussion Starter #33
managed a bit of work on the old girl over the last few days.

Concentrating on rebuilding the front spring hangars. chassis is pretty weak and noticed a bit of movement, especially with the welding, so made up a complex jig to hold the legs at the right distance apart. using the cab mounting bolt and the spring carriers as a reference, everything looks good.

Sliced the outer side of the spring carrier off to get the continuous strip under the chassis right through. As you'll see, there wasn't much left in this area. thankfully I've managed to keep the spring hangars in their original position.

Also bought a cheap chinese 50 amp plasma cutter. They actually get a good review on the mig welding forums and it been a godsend so far.

New inverter welder that i'm getting used to, on my back in some tight spaces welding rusty metal. It's not awesome welding, but i'm getting better every run.























 

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Discussion Starter #34
Been managing a half day here and there. Progressing well. Welding finished on the back half. The tow bar is now an integral part of the chassis :)

Thought I wouldn't be moving anything so I haven't mad a jig as per above, but with taking out the fuel tank crossmember and fixing the sides my mistake was to fix the o/s rail without strengthening it first. I did the strengthening top and bottom on the n/s and it hasn't moved. Assembled the springs again and I have about a 10mm twist on the o/s rail. Easily fixed with a couple of relief cuts and rewelding to put it back in place.

NO pics yet, but I took out two hatches each side of the main section of chassis and cleaned out the crud, and treated with two coats of rc900. Also all the old sections of chassis are descaled and treated before the new steel is welded over. I've actually remove quite a lot of the old chassis as I go to reduce the amount of double skin that cant be waxoyled.

Also rebuilt/repaired the spare wheel carrier, completely new shock absorber mounts and so on.

Also got most of the plates cut, so a couple of welding days and it will nearly be there.

Not a huge update, but heading in the right direction.















 

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This is brilliant. Like really good work.

I continue to follow with great interest.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
3 grinders later...

Didn't touch it for around 6 weeks since I was stuck offshore. Managed to sneak a few days off and made some real progress.

It's pretty much ready for treat/paint etc. also done a fair bit of descaling on the underside of the cab. to honest I could have left it alone. just light surface corrosion that would easily have been fine given that's all that's gathered in 10 or so years, but I couldn't help myself. Will give it a treat with blue steel and a waxoyl.

Last half of today tidying up, welding the small brake pipe brackets and drilling holes. blue steel'd the tank straps and extracted the last of the snapped bolts.

Ordered a few bits like a lift kit, full new exhaust. Tempted to replace the springs and shocks while It's easy too.

Did I say a plasma cutter is a godsend?! made the tank strap retainer a doddle.















 

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Discussion Starter #37
Two brush coats of RC800, flattened off with Scotchbrite. Bought Tetrosyl chassis black (satin) and have tested a bit on the rear. Even after a week its still a bit rubbery which is good. Waiting for a nice warm dry day and climb underneath and put two coats throughout. Then it will leave wax for the internal cavities and hidden spots.

New exhaust trial fitted and all small brackets welded on, holes drilled etc.







Starting to get the cleaner/nicer more enjoyable work :partycheer:
 

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Really, genuinely looks the business. Will end up being one of the strongest Nav's out there.


Unbelievable amount of work - you must be very proud of what you've achieved.
 

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Cannot wait for this to be finished... what an absolute trojan, a terrible project to take on and a lot of perseverance but that looks like that Nav will do another 200K!
 
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