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2008 d22 st-r yd25ddti
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Discussion Starter #1
Apologies if this has been covered, had a quick browse but couldn’t find the answer.

mowed the lawn, shattered the rear canopy window. Roughly $570 from arb to get new one installed, not including struts and locks.

about to get other work done to her so looking at budget cuts...

anyone ever used Perspex/Plexiglass or similar made at home as a budget option? I just need a quick fix for the interim so the back isn’t exposed and my car doesn’t look dodgy.

it’s been suggested by a few people to me.Seems like a good idea just until I can get a proper one.
Main queries are, is it difficult to do, does it suffice for a quick fix, are there any slight issues I may encounter like it sealing etc.

thanks
 

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Cheapest option for cuts is probably a metal cutting blade (with high TPI, Teeth Per Inch) on a jigsaw.

You can get Plexiglass/Perspex specific blades, tend to be more expensive, but some do greatly reduce the risk of cracking.

I've seen (and created) a few larger than planned scrap perspex sheets in the past!

Cutting Acrylic for the first time can be extremely difficult. No reason why you shouldn't use it, and there should be no other issues. You don't want it falling out I suppose. I am sure there would be a charge, even if a decapitation was accidental!

I'm guessing it fits into a profiled seal?
 

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Cheapest option for cuts is probably a metal cutting blade (with high TPI, Teeth Per Inch) on a jigsaw.

You can get Plexiglass/Perspex specific blades, tend to be more expensive, but some do greatly reduce the risk of cracking.

I've seen (and created) a few larger than planned scrap perspex sheets in the past!

Cutting Acrylic for the first time can be extremely difficult. No reason why you shouldn't use it, and there should be no other issues. You don't want it falling out I suppose. I am sure there would be a charge, even if a decapitation was accidental!

I'm guessing it fits into a profiled seal?
Let alone the cost at the moment there is a major shortage of acrylic sheeting. Every shop counter in the world is in need . we have been quoted 6months lead time on some for a job.
Any auto glazier should be able to cut glass to fit.
 

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Let alone the cost at the moment there is a major shortage of acrylic sheeting. Every shop counter in the world is in need . we have been quoted 6months lead time on some for a job.
Any auto glazier should be able to cut glass to fit.
If it’s a newer model canopy, it uses curved bespoke glass that only ARB can supply.

Older commercial style canopies use flat glass that a glazier can supply.

I paid $620 to repair this, including replacing the plastic interior shrouds which I had to break to effect a roadside repair with a tarpaulin and duct tape.
Adjustments.jpg
 

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Bad one.

The reason why I asked about the profiled seal.

The OP did mention hardware with the replacement, so I'm guessing could be similar to yours.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It was a flat window, downloaded arb guide to be sure. It’s attached at the top and supported on the sides by struts, all of which I have, the glass rested against a rubber seal still in good condition.Everything was basically still intact except for the window which I still seem to Be finding pieces of each time I use the back.

perspex should work in theory, was just going to go to Bunnings. Plus any excuse to increase the toolkit. I have a small acrylic project to practice on before this,
wasn’t sure if I wouldbe allowed the black Perspex and should possibly opt for a grey sheet. thought maybe tiniting restrictions would come into play?
Would the canopy break light still be at good visibility through the Perspex?

it’s only for a month or so. It’s booked into get seals and bearings changed, timing belt checked aswel so I asked them to do the Clutch while they were In there which drained the window fund.

was hard to let someone else work on my car but I found a good genuine mechanic... also have no proper shed
 

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Not sure about Oz, but here in UK you could have it fully opaque, if you wished.

Hearing more, I think Perspex/Acrylic is the ideal choice. Do it right, and there should be no need to change it to genuine glass at all. Unless you touch it you shouldn't be able to tell.

The only issue is, the struts normally exert a decent amount of force through the glass when opening/closing, so the prospective Acrylic stock needs to be a lot thicker than the glass so as not to flex. That being said, flex won't harm the sheet, so finding that medium is probably key to stock thickness choice.
 

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Not sure about Oz, but here in UK you could have it fully opaque, if you wished.

Hearing more, I think Perspex/Acrylic is the ideal choice. Do it right, and there should be no need to change it to genuine glass at all. Unless you touch it you shouldn't be able to tell.

The only issue is, the struts normally exert a decent amount of force through the glass when opening/closing, so the prospective Acrylic stock needs to be a lot thicker than the glass so as not to flex. That being said, flex won't harm the sheet, so finding that medium is probably key to stock thickness choice.
For what its worth theres no reason you could not use steel or ally sheet to replace the glass . Never have seen a need for a glass window at the back on a canopy.
 

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Provided both side mirrors are functional, most states in Australia permit you to cover the rear window in a utility or van.
 
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