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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
well i've done them. it's an absolute ******* of a job. the shells weren't a problem, its every thing else. i'll post the job with a few pictures shortly for any one who's interested.
if anybody can get someone to do it for them for a couple of hundred quid, take them up on it.

engine sounds sweet, or at least no different to how it was before. old bearings seemed very good but at least i've got some peace of mind (for the moment anyhow)

cheers
Richard1

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D22 - Big end bearings

Richard1

Thankyou! You've decided for me - I'll pay someone. I'll let you know what mine are like.

Richard2
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Right,here goes.

1, remove front sump guard,power steering belt and air con belt.

2, remove rear bolts from front prop shaft, remove 6 bolts from each front half shaft. these will seperate and move out if the way. there are 6 bolts hold the diff frame in place, 4 at front, 2 at rear. support diff unit,remove bolts and withdraw diff and propshaft


3. remove 3 bolts holding power steering pump in place and prize to one side.

4. remove 4 bolts holding air con pump to its bracket and rest pump on chassis rail. this will give you better access to the 2 lower bolts securing bracket to sump. remove these 2 bolts.

5. drain oil and replace drain plug, bont take lower sump off yet or you'll spend the next 3 hours getting dripped on. wipe off oil.

6. un do and remove gear box cross menber by removing 2 rubber mount nuts and 4 member bolts. jack up gear box and giggle about with it. lower gear box on to torsion bar x member. this will give you better acces to top 2 gearbox bolts, which are a complete *******.

7. before removing gearbox bolts, unplug and remove crankshaft sensor from gearbox. its on the drivers side at about 2 o,clock on the bellhousing. this will prevent it from getting damaged by the flywheel and costing you £25- trust me i know!!

8. remove gearbox bolts, including starter motor bolts. be carefull- there's one bolt screwed in from the other side, just above the starter motor. the motor can be rested on the chassis rail.

9. i used a rachet strap to pull the gear box back 20mm or so. be carefull not to distort the metal mating ring when pulling apart, of you'll spend an hour trying to get it back on again!!!

10. when the two 10mm bolts are visable, remove lower sump pan, remove 16 bolts securing upper sump pan. remove the rubber tube from the front side of sump. using rubber mallet and screwdriver, prize off sump carefully. note-the dip stick tube pushes in to the sump, it pulls out tretty easily.




11. mate up the geabox again with 2 bolts, this will allow you to turn the crankshaft.

12. have lunch and a cig.

13. using a 19mm socket on the end of the crankshaft, rotate the crank clockwise till no.s 1 and 4 pistons are at bdc. undo one of number 4's conrod bolts. keeping the nut on the last couple of threads and using a pnch, drift the bolt out,remove the nut, and finish drifting the bolt out. replace it with an m8 hut and bolt of the same length, re-tighten slightly. undo the other conrod bolt and drift out like the other. undo the m8 bolt and lower the bottom conrod journal away. push up the conrod and piston enough to remove the bearing shell. i sprayed solvent cleaner to the conrod and big end pin to clean them. wipe with soft clean cloth.


14. compare the new and old bearings to get a feel of what you need to file. using a small file and by resting the new bearing on its edges, file both lugs (tangs) slightly until they fit the conrod recess. spray with solvent cleaner and allow to dry off by eveperation. file the other bearing the same.

15. i fitted the upper bearing by placing it on the clean crank pin and lowering the conrod onto it making sure the lug locates in the recess. you can then lift it back off again and square it up with your 2 thumbs so its flush. fit the outher bearing and flush up. using ear bud, smear the bearings and crank pin with fresh oil .

16. pull the 2 halfs together and hold around the crank pin and drop your 2 new conrod bolts thruogh. smear the threads with the assembly paste and screw on the nuts. tighten in equal amounts to 40 lb.ft. leave a few minutes, then undo. repeat this again, then tighten and leave to 40 lb.ft. again. repeat for the other three conrods.

17. pull gearbox apart again by 20mm or so.

18. scrape off the excess gasket sealent from the mating surfaces. when fitting the new o-ring to the sump, smear a little sealent on the mating surfaces. i added an o-ring over the metal collar to give it more to crush on. (as per chris).smear rest of sump with sealent .



19. refit sump, checking that the o-ring is still in place just before you push it home. hand thighten the bolts, then full tighten working from the middle 2 out to ends.

20.refit gearbox,starter,sensor,x menber,power steering,aircon pump,etc.etc.

21. fill up with oil and new filter, un plug the injector punp. this will allow you to crank the oil pressure up without starting the engine. it will also bring on your engine fault light, but this will go off after a while once your angine starts.

22. refit injector pump plug once your oil light goes out and start vehicle (and pray)

23. i left my nav running on tickover for 1/2hour first before driving. keep revs low for hundred miles or so to runn shells in.


I hope this covers everything. it took 2 of us the whole day, with the use of a car lift and transmission jack.

best of luck.

Richard1

forgot:- thaks to chris and neil for their help.
 

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I'll bet your on the beer tonight!
You'll look back in a few weeks and realise that it wasn't that bad a job, anyway you've done it and at least you can have renewed confidence in the car.
well done.
Chis Vince
 

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Weldone that man.(you can do mine if you like). :lol: may have to do mine myself.how easy were con rod bolts to remove.
neil
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
hi neil.

not that hard, just drift them out with a punch, the're not that tight. the ends of the bolst have a kind of concaved recess in them which means your punch won't slip off. you can just about pull the new ones through.

cheers
Richard1
 

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Well bearing change is back on the cards :D rgmather kindly ordered an extra set for me when he sent for his.so a big thankyou richard2 who went out of his way to order my set and sent them to me before i paid him. :D :D :D .

Neil
 

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D22 Bearing change

Well, it's done - not by me but the local garage. It took them 13 hrs but I trust them so although the final bill (£540 - labour, oil, vat) was more than I expected I'm happy that it will have been done properly. From what they said I'm glad I didn't try it on my own. The bearings look fine - there's not even continous wear across the full width, but I wasn't really expecting them to be worn (50,000 miles, oil changed every 3000). If this all turns out to be a waste of time I'll never know, but I'm glad it's done and the ARP bolts are fitted. I've got the bolts and bearings if anyone wants them for investigative purposes.

Thanks again to Chris and Richard1 for the guidance.

I'm sure it's quieter and more powerful but after spending well over £600 you'd expect it to be!

Richard2
 

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Well still not had mine changed mechanic postponed till 16 june.i thought should be ok just er indoors pottering about in it. how wrong was i. :shock: she gets in it this morning been stood all weekend fires it up and instance it starts she wraggs it up the road black smoke billowing.so quick phone call and bollockin take your deep sea divin boots off when you drive me truck.does it again she can walk :lol: i took interior out before cos she wouldnt clean it sat on drive for 7 months.WOMEN.
 

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Huh. actually your right but i know she wont phew. :)
 

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I've just got the ARP bolts and some new nissan big end shells, as I don't really feel comfortable putting the other suggested shells in (I'm sure there's nothing wrong with them, but I have a warranty that I don't want to compromise!). The only shells my somewhat-unhelpful local nissan dealer could get where the grade 1 brown tagged shells; before I delve into my engine, can anybody tell me whether the shells that are in there now will still have the colour coding marks visible?

I don't have the measuring equipment to determine if these shells are a correct replacement for the existing ones, so if I cannot tell, I guess I'll rebuild on the current shells with the ARP bolts; they've survived 81,000 miles so far, so who knows?!?!?

Any ideas anyone?

Dex
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
bigdex,

you'll be doing yourself a big dis-favour if you don't fit new shells.

your warranty will be void the moment you remove the sump. i'd leave it untill your warranty has expired and fit the lead copper bearings.

richard1
 

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I would do, but the warranty has a claim limit of £3000, so if it does throw a rod, it's not going to cover it. Additionally, there is no way they'll know if I have changed the bolts or it was done before I bought it. I appreciate that the same could be said for the bearing shells, but I am still concerned about the 3 different sizes of bearing shell supplied by nissan as "standard" size; the theory being that the bearings should be matched to your crank. Is a "one size fits all" bearing sensible?

D
 

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contact andy of bradford eng prods. he has had bearings made especially for nav lead/copper he states brown tag on nissan bearings as standard and his bearings are made to his spec to replace brown tag.i will try and find his no for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
if you read up on vinces threads in the blown engine posts, he mentions about this., but i think the jist of what he says is that even if you fit the std replacement shells from acl into the smallest std crankpin of the engines, the play will still be less than your original shells.

there really isn't anythink to worry about with the 3 nissan std sizes, they're so small, it makes no difference.

richard1
 

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well at last its done.mechanic took it yesterday at 10 got it back at 6.00.last night.i havent used it yet went to gloucester today but used my van. :cry: i am sure my confidence will return i hope. last night i was deaming new bolts werent in properly.nothing to do with ian my mech i would trust him with my life.just paranoid.
 

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What condition were the ones you took out like, particularly the top set?
Chris Vince
 
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