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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I changed leaking Prop seal on rear diff with no problems at all obviously drained oil and replaced with europarts recommended oil, now I’m noticing a clunk on takeoff but not all the time only occasionally

any help or ideas would be so grateful
anyone else had these symptoms
thanks in advance
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The manuals say you can't just change the oil seal on a Dana diff without re-setting the backlash.
I didn’t know thisit seemed just a straight swap out so that’s what I did (I’m no mechanic btw ) do you think it could be the uj on prop perhaps
Also there is a quarter turn each way on prop is this the backlash ? And is this normal

many thanks
 

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This is the way it is supposed to be done, standard Dana axle method, they fitted to a huge number of vehicles ranging from jeeps to jags to older landrovers..

The process is....
1) Disconnect the rear driveshaft
2) Remove both rear wheels
3) Remove both brake drums
4) Using a torque wrench measure the torque necessary
to turn the pinion. Record this reading. You'll need it later.
5) Remove the pinion nut. You'll need a big breaker bar and a way to holding the yoke or a good impact gun to do this.
6) Remove the yoke from the pinion shaft. It should slide right out.
7) Pry out the old seal with a seal puller. Do not score the seal bore with the puller.
8) Clean the seal bore
9) Carefully & evenly tap in the new seal
10) Clean the outside of the yoke. Put some gear oil on the outside of the yoke surface that contacts the seal.
11) Slide the yoke back onto the pinion shaft. Twist it slightly to get it into the new seal.
12) Put the new crush tube and pinion nut.
13) IMPORTANT - Tighten using a socket wrench, no impact tools here. As the nut starts to contact the yoke measure the preload with the torque wrench. The preload is the torque required to turn the pinion gear. Carefully tighten the pinion nut and re-check the preload very often. Keep tightening the pinion nut until you get the same preload torque you measured in step 4.
14) Reinstall the brake drums, tyres & rear driveshaft.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
This is the way it is supposed to be done, standard Dana axle method, they fitted to a huge number of vehicles ranging from jeeps to jags to older landrovers..

The process is....
1) Disconnect the rear driveshaft
2) Remove both rear wheels
3) Remove both brake drums
4) Using a torque wrench measure the torque necessary
to turn the pinion. Record this reading. You'll need it later.
5) Remove the pinion nut. You'll need a big breaker bar and a way to holding the yoke or a good impact gun to do this.
6) Remove the yoke from the pinion shaft. It should slide right out.
7) Pry out the old seal with a seal puller. Do not score the seal bore with the puller.
8) Clean the seal bore
9) Carefully & evenly tap in the new seal
10) Clean the outside of the yoke. Put some gear oil on the outside of the yoke surface that contacts the seal.
11) Slide the yoke back onto the pinion shaft. Twist it slightly to get it into the new seal.
12) Put the new crush tube and pinion nut.
13) IMPORTANT - Tighten using a socket wrench, no impact tools here. As the nut starts to contact the yoke measure the preload with the torque wrench. The preload is the torque required to turn the pinion gear. Carefully tighten the pinion nut and re-check the preload very often. Keep tightening the pinion nut until you get the same preload torque you measured in step 4.
14) Reinstall the brake drums, tyres & rear driveshaft.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Wow really all that just for a seal ? Looks like it can stay clunking till it goes kaput and I’ll just get another rear axle when it does, it seems easier to replace the whole thing

thanks for your info tho very helpful indeed
 

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Saying that, it might be worth popping the prop off, checking the Ujs, and tightening the nut a bit more to see if that reduces the play.
 
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