Nissan-Navara.net banner

1 - 20 of 26 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys, I just bought a 2013 Navara STX the other day and have concerns regarding the coolant level. When I look at the overflow bottle, it is well above the max line, and when I look under the radiator cap I can't see any coolant - meaning it is low? Why would the coolant be low in the radiator but too high in the overflow bottle? The cap on the radiator is not a pressure type, but the one on the overflow is. After taking it for a 20 minute drive, the cap on both the overflow and radiator was warm. I waited around 45mins and opened the overflow and there was still pressure built up and a tad of coolant came out. In addition to this, the return hose from the overflow was hot (couldn't touch it very long). Does this mean the coolant is in fact circulating and returning to the radiator? If it is circulating, then I don't understand why the radiator seems low and the overflow too high. Coolant is definitely moving and making contact with the radiator cap, as after drying it, replacing it, and running the engine; it gets wet with coolant when re-checking.

The temperature seems fine at just below half way (although the longest journey I've done was only 30-45 mins), AC and heater works too. I haven't checked the hoses extensively but the ones on the return of the overflow seem fine as well as the ones coming from the radiator. I'm a bit concerned here as I don't really know what's going on, to my understanding the coolant should be up to the neck of the radiator filler underneath the cap. I will try topping up the radiator this weekend and keep an eye on it, but I don't know what the existing coolant is (it's green, although this doesn't mean much) - I might just have to use distilled water if it doesn't need too much.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Cheers!
 

Attachments

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
595 Posts
Your temperature seems to be holding so that's good. Although short runs, if cooling was affected, you would see it on the needle. Hot hoses do suggest flow, but don't guarantee it.

A more thorough check of hoses is your first stop I think.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
11,374 Posts
It doesn't sound like a big problem. Suggest you follow the bleeding process as defined in the workshop manual, which is to let the engine idle for 10 mins with the expansion cap off and radiator cap on. That will purge air from the cooling system.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Will trying bleeding the system today and doing a more thorough check on the hoses. Thanks for the help! I'll keep you posted if nothing helps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
135 Posts
I flushed my system when the rad came off whilst doing the duplex chain upgrade, topped the rad up to the neck, and the expansion tank to the max line.
They have never moved since.
Rad level is always up to the neck everytime I check it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
So today I tried the bleeding process by removing the expansion cap with the radiator cap left on, and ran the engine at idle for 10 mins. Nothing really happened. So I decided to siphon some coolant out of the expansion and put it into the radiator. With the expansion cap off, when I would pour the coolant into the radiator it somehow ended back up into the expansion bottle. When I put the expansion bottle cap back on, I managed to get the coolant up to the radiator neck and the expansion bottle was at the max line (with around 150ml of extra coolant left over). I then ran the engine, and the coolant in the expansion bottle seemed to stay at the max line, but as soon as I revved the engine the expansion bottle went way above the max line, and after turning the engine off and checking the radiator i couldn't see the coolant at the neck line - back to square one. What does this mean? Because something obviously isn't right. And to top it all off, I disconnected my battery so that I could properly see the coolant line on the expansion bottle and now after reconnecting it my radio is asking for a radio code - my whole stereo system is bricked because I have no code. Where on earth do I get the code from?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,062 Posts
UK ones of that spec wouldnt need a radio code so im guessing the system is different down under. In the UK the radio is recognised by the ECU and is a dealer job to match a new one.
If it is like the old style coded radios we used to have any auto electric supplier should be able to recode it for you . Do you not have the original paperwork for the truck as the code should be in that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
UK ones of that spec wouldnt need a radio code so im guessing the system is different down under. In the UK the radio is recognised by the ECU and is a dealer job to match a new one.
If it is like the old style coded radios we used to have any auto electric supplier should be able to recode it for you . Do you not have the original paperwork for the truck as the code should be in that.
Unfortunately there was no paperwork/manual with the ute. Just bought it from a secondhand dealer last week. I'll give Auckland Nissan dealership a call tomorrow and see if they can do anything, otherwise I have no idea what to do :/ Still have no idea what is going on with the coolant...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Okay radio problem is solved. I was thinking to myself that I couldn't be the only owner of this vehicle that has had this problem, because all I did was disconnect the battery. Then I had a bit of a brain wave and remember throwing away a crumpled dealership card when cleaning the vehicle out. I ran outside, dug through this last week's rubbish bag and voila - it was written on the back of it! What luck!

But yes, coolant is still giving me a headache haha. Could this be something as simple as a bad overflow/radiator cap causing a vacuum leak? I've given the hoses a decent look over (without taking anything apart) and they seem fine.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
595 Posts
...it was written on the back of it! What luck!
For sure, it's a common thing so any dealer is going to note it somewhere. Lucky find! Nice.
But yes, coolant is still giving me a headache haha...
There is some weird physics going on here. Like I said, the engine is holding temperature, and no other symptoms, so that's good. Your expansion tank is not giving the coolant back to the rad after everything cools and contracts. There is some sort of unnatural valve being created somewhere.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Start cheap, replace all the caps.

EDIT: The system seems to be more keen to draw air than coolant back during contraction.
For sure, it's a common thing so any dealer is going to note it somewhere. Lucky find! Nice.

There is some weird physics going on here. Like I said, the engine is holding temperature, and no other symptoms, so that's good. Your expansion tank is not giving the coolant back to the rad after everything cools and contracts. There is some sort of unnatural valve being created somewhere.
Start cheap, replace all the caps.

EDIT: The system seems to be more keen to draw air than coolant back during contraction.
Thanks for the help and suggestions guys. I think I might do as you said, buy new caps if they aren't too expensive. Looks like both the rad and overflow caps will cost around $30 which isn't too bad. The car is still under warranty from the dealer (got a 3month/3000km warranty) so if that doesn't help I'll have to go through the hassle of getting them to fix the issue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
I also forgot to mention, when I turn the car off I hear a 'gulp' sound coming from somewhere. Is this more of an indication that air is trapped somewhere? Is there also a chance that my problem is exhaust gasses entering the system? Although even after a 1h drive the temperature seems fine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
UPDATE: I decided to try bleed the system one more time today before going through the hassle with the dealer. I siphoned the overflow and added the coolant to the neck of the rad to get both to the correct level, and let the engine idle for 20 mins with the overflow cap off, heater on. The first thing I noticed was that the overflow bottle immediately got high as soon as the engine started, perhaps meaning the thermostat is stuck open? I also noticed that the engine temperature did not budge at all for the whole 20 mins, and was staying on the lowest bar. Only when I put my foot on the pedal did it start to increase - and the coolant in the overflow would rise at the same time causing it to overflow. I'm definitely going to have to call the dealer, but I'm not sure if the problem is with the thermostat, or if this indicates that exhaust gasses are entering the system? Does this also mean I can't trust the temperature my dash is giving me? Because when I'm driving it seems to be fine and doesn't show it as overheating. Any insight would be greatly appreciated - really thankful for the help so far.

Cheers
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,062 Posts
UPDATE: I decided to try bleed the system one more time today before going through the hassle with the dealer. I siphoned the overflow and added the coolant to the neck of the rad to get both to the correct level, and let the engine idle for 20 mins with the overflow cap off, heater on. The first thing I noticed was that the overflow bottle immediately got high as soon as the engine started, perhaps meaning the thermostat is stuck open? I also noticed that the engine temperature did not budge at all for the whole 20 mins, and was staying on the lowest bar. Only when I put my foot on the pedal did it start to increase - and the coolant in the overflow would rise at the same time causing it to overflow. I'm definitely going to have to call the dealer, but I'm not sure if the problem is with the thermostat, or if this indicates that exhaust gasses are entering the system? Does this also mean I can't trust the temperature my dash is giving me? Because when I'm driving it seems to be fine and doesn't show it as overheating. Any insight would be greatly appreciated - really thankful for the help so far.

Cheers
Personally and please dont take offence . I think your over thinking it and assuming theres a problem when there isnt one . Now you have got to disbelieving the guages because they dont back up your theory.
Of course the temperature gauge stays low when idling and will pick up ,those engines run cool anyhow. I have several engines that show a gap at the top of the rad when cold its normal as long as the levels stay the same over a period of time there is no issue ,I think you are more likely to cause issues by over filling the system.
Not sure I would be spending time and money that may be invalidating any warranty you may have on a whim.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Possibly right, it would still be worth spending £30 to get a garage to pressure test the cooling system.
Thanks for the replies. I may be overthinking it, true. But there is certainly some kind of vacuum leak somewhere. I live in New Zealand in Auckland, and unfortunately getting any garage to test the vehicle will cost a lot more than the equivalent of 30 quid. I'm taking it back to the dealership tomorrow to let them deal with it, as it's still under warranty and I'm sure they have a mechanic in their pocket that deals with their issues. Cheers
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
11,374 Posts
Makes sense. It could be as simple as the expansion cap being faulty.

Out of interest you can buy a radiator pressure testing kit off eBay for £37, ($75), guessing you can in NZ too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Makes sense. It could be as simple as the expansion cap being faulty.

Out of interest you can buy a radiator pressure testing kit off eBay for £37, ($75), guessing you can in NZ too.
Cheers, I was looking at those but the cheapest I can find one here is $150 NZD (77 pounds). Or I could buy one from ebay and wait 3-4 weeks for it to arrive from China for around $75 NZD. If all else fails and the dealer tries to muck me around I suppose I could give one of them a go.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,062 Posts
Thanks for the replies. I may be overthinking it, true. But there is certainly some kind of vacuum leak somewhere. I live in New Zealand in Auckland, and unfortunately getting any garage to test the vehicle will cost a lot more than the equivalent of 30 quid. I'm taking it back to the dealership tomorrow to let them deal with it, as it's still under warranty and I'm sure they have a mechanic in their pocket that deals with their issues. Cheers
How much do you have to top it up under normal running as I hadnt noticed you mention a leak ,only a perceived one because the rad is not full when you expect it to be. Its normal behaviour and not something I would be losing sleep over.
 
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
Top