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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all.
Sorry if this long winded but I,m at my wits end trying to find cure / cause / problem with my Navarra d40 2009.and get an honest opinion…
It all started when I broke down on the a13,I pulled over as soon as the motor started to lack power and run a bit lumpy..and noticed,the temp gauge right to the top in red.not sure how long for…?.
I called the rac,who came and noticed a leak in a small coolant pipe,he repaired the pipe,and filled with water,and I was on my way..and drove home 50 miles with no problems at at..drove like a dream.did not turn on heater as it was not cold outside.as said please bear with me,this is long winded,but I would be hugely grateful for any ideas,cures…
So I first noticed I had a problem a couple of days after.
Firstly I will start what is ok…
1. Car does not overheat at all..even after running for 3 hours.NO OVERHEATING.
2. Car does not smoke at all.
3.car drives absolutely fine.
4.engine sounds perfect..not lumpy..
5.has no leaks from what I can see..floor dry..etc.
6.temp gauge goes just below the temp icon,below half way,and just over a quarter if that makes sense.and stays there .
7.had 2 new thermostats fitted in case the first one was faulty.
Have driven the car locally,30 odd miles,and no problems at all.
8.oil cap is totally clean.no milky stuff.
9.both caps,exspansion and rad are very clean.
Now the problems I have…
1. Heater in cabin does not blow hot.but blows air fine..but cold..
2. Hoses are cold,except the one that goes directly to rad,that gets hot,but not boiling hot,you can hold it for a minute or so,before you have to let go…
3.coolant in rad,after running for 2 hours,you can stick your finger in without getting burnt.
4.bubbles are constant in rad immediately from starting.
5.after driving,then leaving the car over nite,and all day..the pressure is incredible..it is holding pressure…the hose is rock solid.
What I have tried.
1. New thermostats.
2.had the engine up high,with cap off and running for 3 hours,in case of air lock..with blower on
3. At one stage…I did manage to get hot air for about 10 seconds,then it went..but I could hear it gurgling behind the dash,but then that went after about 10 seconds.
4. I did a test..with the blue fluid,and it turn yellow..
5. The car is in the garage at present..who have informed me they done the same test,and got same results as me..,garage have said head gasket..?.but I,m just not convinced,and don’t want to spend a shed load of money,if it’s not…also until it all comes apart,it may also be a cracked head,but won’t know until head gasket done..I just seem to be getting conflicting answers..help / advice needed please.
 

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Are you sure the pressure cap and NON pressure rad caps are the right way around?
Many people have got them wrong and had indistinct/odd problems, the spring loaded cap goes on the reservoir, NOT the radiator proper.
 

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I would put money on the head gasket.
Just above the alternator one of the coolant ways is close to the outside of the block, this fails to the outside. It only leaks when the engine is hot.

It happened to me, and several others.
 

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I would put money on the head gasket.
Just above the alternator one of the coolant ways is close to the outside of the block, this fails to the outside. It only leaks when the engine is hot.

It happened to me, and several others.
Problem is, he is saying it holds water pressure, even overnight.
 

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I had pretty much the same symptoms, drove it for a couple of months while trying to work out out.

As it got a bit worse I started
losing coolant, not very much.

Assuming it is the same thing, it doesn't leak unless the engine is hot.

I did use Wurth coolant leak sealer which cured it for a while. An that subject, I am reliable informed that Wurth is the only product that will not block the heater matrix.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi guys.
Well firstly a huge thank you for your reply’s and I’mput,it is greatly appreciated.and I mean that most sincerely.
The caps are on the correct way round.
I,m not mercanically minded,to say the least,so the car is at the garage,who are saying head gasket..very costly..etc…it really is of a devided opinions…some say head gasket..some say no way…so at i at the garages peril really..another a great if not head gasket when done..then down the cracked head route..then maybe still not right…
I do have 2 bottles of k seal ultimate head gasket repair..and 2 bottles of steel steel..
Has anyone got opinions on these?
Without blocking heater up etc..which I read…I,m thinking if I add these..not all..lol
At least I would know for sure,if it is head gasket..if the stuff works.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Are you sure the pressure cap and NON pressure rad caps are the right way around?
Many people have got them wrong and had indistinct/odd problems, the spring loaded cap goes on the reservoir, NOT the radiator proper.
Hi Chris.caps correct way round
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I had pretty much the same symptoms, drove it for a couple of months while trying to work out out.

As it got a bit worse I started
losing coolant, not very much.

Assuming it is the same thing, it doesn't leak unless the engine is hot.

I did use Wurth coolant leak sealer which cured it for a while. An that subject, I am reliable informed that Wurth is the only product that will not block the heater matrix.
I would put money on the head gasket.
Just above the alternator one of the coolant ways is close to the outside of the block, this fails to the outside. It only leaks when the engine is hot.

It happened to me, and several others.
hi.
I,m pretty sure from what I,m told..if it was head gasket..it would be running rough,mine is not..it’s running perfect.
 

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Don't use k seal, it will block the heater.

The common head gasket failure on the D40 2.5 is, as I said, just above the alternator. It is a water channel leaking to the outside. It doesn't make the engine run rough.

It is highly unlikely that the head has cracked.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hi guys.
Well it looks a stone wall penalty..that it’s eith head gasket..or cylinder head cracked,either or Other..due to the fact of mine being in immaculate condition,having never been put to work,
And me also having the chassis all inspected by Nissan,and also having the heavy duty upgraded timing chains done all last year,I,m gonna bite the bullit and have it done…
I,ve done a lot of research,and purchased a complete head cylinder and gaskets set,bolts,etc..
All set..and ready..to go in £ 800.00…garage going to charge me £ 700.00 labour..
Due to discount I get from parts place..I,ve purchased..new fares water pump,gates thermostat,gates drive belt,bosh oil filter,air filter,10 litres of quality oil,4 litre of antifreeze,for another £ 185.00…so in total looks like coming to £ 1685.00 all done and new.
Did ask the question to my garage guy..what if when all done..I still have the problem..and he has said..if so then he will not charge the labour,and even give me money back for all parts,so he must confident it is head or gasket…
Once again,many thanks indeed for all you help,advice,support,to you all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It would be worth checking the garage are going to skim the head. It should only cost about £40.
Hi.
Garage not skimming head,I am supplying a new head..al done pressure tested etc..and a gasket set,bolts etc..garage just doing the work.
 
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