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I may be wrong, but I thought a galvanizing spray needed to work on a cleaned metal surface - inside a chassis section, it'd be sprayed onto dirt/rust/paint etc., but if it's free it may be better than nothing!
 

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Having red through some of the posts on this thread I'm starting to wonder if I should avoid a D40 completely. Is the rust likely to be an issue on say a 50k miles 2013 NAv?
 

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I may be wrong, but I thought a galvanizing spray needed to work on a cleaned metal surface - inside a chassis section, it'd be sprayed onto dirt/rust/paint etc., but if it's free it may be better than nothing!


You’re not wrong. Galvanising requires a good electrical bond between the treatment and the metal.
 

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Hi all.
Just bought a great conditon 06 d40. Chassis doesnt look all that bad and hssbeen undersealed at some point. Shes out of the 12 year warranty , shes a keeper, love the truck, time to treat the chassis best i can. I plan on jenoliting as much of it as i can and pump it inside the rails. Then undersealing with possibly raptor or a good quality equivalent. I run a small fab / machine/ metalwork shop, got all the kit and have access to a ramp when it comes to undersealing.
Im thinking yes but you guys are the experts, is it worth adding the strengthening plates before i underseal ? For me its pretty easy as im a fabricator.
Just nice to hear from people who have been in the same boat. Chassis is not cracked no were and looks pretty good but i am aware its an internal thing.
Cheers in advance.
 

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Good thinking, many say that Dinitrol is a better product to keep corrosion at bay.

I've got some strengthening plates in my garage... My concern about fitting them is that they could create a rust issue between the plates and the chassis.
 

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Good thinking, many say that Dinitrol is a better product to keep corrosion at bay.

I've got some strengthening plates in my garage... My concern about fitting them is that they could create a rust issue between the plates and the chassis.
Yes i did notice dinitrol pop up. I will look into that.
Yes , i suppose rust could build up behind the plate. Its a tough one.... wait for.the chaissis to crack then repair or beef it up before it does and see how it fairs in the years to come.
Guess you have re done your chassis ?
 

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Ah yeah. Ive seen that. It is a rust converter aerosol . Think i will go down the dinitrol route to. Maybe try something like jenolite pumped in first.
Just gotta decide wether to strengthen it first or leave it.
 

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Well i decided to go down the strengthen route. Lazer cuts and a full dintrol kit on its way. First job im doing to my d40. Service at the same time whilst its on the ramp.
 

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Do you know of the kitchen baking foil trick. An easy way to mask off the bits that don't need gunk spraying on (exhaust, brakes)
 

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Do you know of the kitchen baking foil trick. An easy way to mask off the bits that don't need gunk spraying on (exhaust, brakes)
Heh that's a great idea. No ive never thought of that. Good shout. I will do that. I usually just use pairs of old overalls when im welding so would of just done something like that but the foil trick sounds perfect. Thanks for that.
 

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Yep, a 50m roll or thereabouts, just rip lengths off and scrunch them on.

Probably best to buy a roll rather than raid the kitchen, it will save a heated debate.
 

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Dinitrol kit and strengthening plates have turned up. Think im gonna weld the plates on over the next few weeks but leave the undersealing until middle of summer when everythings is nice and dry. Dont wanna be locking any moisture in really.
Thoughts ?
 

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It does need to dry, but given a good pressure wash beforehand and allowed to dry out. Summer isn't necessarily dry!
Yeah, gonna be steaming it off over a pit first. Then leave in the unit to dry for a few days then attack it. I will weld the lazer cuts on , get april out the way then go for it i think.
 
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