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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

I know this topic will be familiar to a lot of users on here but as this is my first Navara I'm new to the topic.

Took my recently purchased 2005 D40 Aventura to my local garage to investigate failed rear fuel tank support...yes, you all know what's coming.....

When he got it up on the ramps the mechanic pointed out the poor condition of the chassis at the rear close to the cross member and junction of the springs. The truck falls outside of the Nissan Recall (which has finished anyway now) but my questions are;

  • on a scale of 1-10, using the experience of users on here, how bad is the corrossion?
  • is it typical on this part of the chassis? The rest looks ok?
  • can it be repaired?
  • can you recommend a repair shop close to Sheffield with experience of these repairs?

Thanks for any help you can offer. I really want to make the truck good and keep it running.
 

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Not great you can be sure that the corrosion extends beyond what you can see.

There's a company near Gatwick advertising on eBay, it would involve taking the tub off, cutting out the rusty stuff and welding in plates.
It's not going to cheap, but if the rest of the truck is good then worth the investment.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the information. Depending on cost might have to sell it runner or spares, let's see. It would be a shame.

Any other suggestions for a repair shop closer to Sheffield would be welcome.

Cheers!
 

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Has the recall completely finished I thought it was up the 12 year mark ? I have a 2012 so are you saying I can’t claim on mine (mine is totally fine just wondering)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Has the recall completely finished I thought it was up the 12 year mark ? I have a 2012 so are you saying I can’t claim on mine (mine is totally fine just wondering)
When I spoke to Nissan Customer Services they told me that my Nov 2005 Navara had missed the cut off; it applies to models Nov 2006 onwards(?) apparently. Additionally, yes, they told me that the recall was now closed anyway(?).

I can only relay the details of what I was told by Nissan, you my want to check yourself.
 

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Thanks for the information. Depending on cost might have to sell it runner or spares, let's see. It would be a shame.

Any other suggestions for a repair shop closer to Sheffield would be welcome.

Cheers!
Try giving Armour Rustproofing Sheffield shout.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
 

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Just went for a little look at their site as their name doesn't suggest they do repairs. Some mention of welding though so maybe they will be a good bet.

One thing I would avoid though is any underbody sealant that forms a skin. The traditional 'waxoyl' types are the things I'm referring to. The rubberised skin looks like a good idea but inevitably gets moisture behind it that gets trapped and causes huge problems. If you've ever seen what happens when you peel this type of coating back it's quite shocking. Everything looks nice on the surface but the reality is that corrosion is accelerated massively.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Just went for a little look at their site as their name doesn't suggest they do repairs. Some mention of welding though so maybe they will be a good bet.

One thing I would avoid though is any underbody sealant that forms a skin. The traditional 'waxoyl' types are the things I'm referring to. The rubberised skin looks like a good idea but inevitably gets moisture behind it that gets trapped and causes huge problems. If you've ever seen what happens when you peel this type of coating back it's quite shocking. Everything looks nice on the surface but the reality is that corrosion is accelerated massively.
I've just spent the mornig giving everything a good clean around the chassis, wheel arches, mud-flaps etc to get rid of the thick crud that builds up.

Are you saying any under-sealing is not recommended in your opinion?
 

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Very much, it makes everything look smart (black and shiny) but inevitably traps moisture beneath it. As a result of seeing the result on many occasions I would never buy a car that had been undersealed. People often get very defensive about this unfortunately. Usually someone who has an undersealed car and doesn't want to believe that they've just condemned it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Very much, it makes everything look smart (black and shiny) but inevitably traps moisture beneath it. As a result of seeing the result on many occasions I would never buy a car that had been undersealed. People often get very defensive about this unfortunately. Usually someone who has an undersealed car and doesn't want to believe that they've just condemned it.
Interesting. That was going to be my next job once I'd got the welding sorted.
 

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I'm amazed that they still sell the stuff, it really does do so much damage. There are alternatives that do work but they tend not to be marketed as underseal. If you've been around vehicles for any length of time then you'll have noticed that any areas covered in old manky oil where it's been leaking for a while are pristine underneath the gunge. Products that replicate this actually do work. It needs to be something that stays oily and greasy, anything that forms a skin just traps moisture and accelerates rot.
 

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I'm amazed that they still sell the stuff, it really does do so much damage. There are alternatives that do work but they tend not to be marketed as underseal. If you've been around vehicles for any length of time then you'll have noticed that any areas covered in old manky oil where it's been leaking for a while are pristine underneath the gunge. Products that replicate this actually do work. It needs to be something that stays oily and greasy, anything that forms a skin just traps moisture and accelerates rot.
Cheers. Can you recommend any products? Grease??
 

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ACF50 and Fluid Film are both excellent products. I haven't used Dinitrol myself so don't know either way. So long as it remains gungy/oily and doesn't form a 'skin' it should be ok. The cheap (and possibly best) option is chainsaw 'bar and chain' oil. You can paint it on with a brush or thin it down and spray it. If you've ever used this stuff you'll know how tacky it is.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Quick update; found a local Garage Welder who's done this before on Navara's so I'm optomistic that I will get a result on the welding of my truck chassis🤞

For the rust prevention/protection I'm thinking of using POR-15 treatment because it will take care of any and all of the rust remaining on the chassis. Thoughts?
 

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Por15 is fantastic, really sticks to metal. Wear gloves, it does not come off your hands for a good couple of weeks!
 
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