Nissan-Navara.net banner
1 - 20 of 29 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all.
Drove the truck today , did 30 or so miles with no problems, came back ,parked up then went out a few hours later and noticed as blowing noise coming from the engine bay like a plastic bag was in the fan.
It got louder and louder on the small journey and now sounds like a helicopter.
I have read threads that say its a viscous fan and others that its computer controlled.
Any ideas please ???
Video below
Thanks

Navara 3.0ltr V6 Diesel Outlaw
2012 Auto
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Hi all.
Drove the truck today , did 30 or so miles with no problems, came back ,parked up then went out a few hours later and noticed as blowing noise coming from the engine bay like a plastic bag was in the fan.
It got louder and louder on the small journey and now sounds like a helicopter.
I have read threads that say its a viscous fan and others that its computer controlled.
Any ideas please ???
Video below

Thanks

Navara 3.0ltr V6 Diesel Outlaw
2012 Auto
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
15,622 Posts
On the V6 the fan is driven by an electromagnetic clutch which is controlled by the ECU.

All the other d40 models have a viscous fan..

We had one person on here who had the electromagnetic clutch fail. You need to source a replacement.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
On the V6 the fan is driven by an electromagnetic clutch which is controlled by the ECU.

All the other d40 models have a viscous fan..

We had one person on here who had the electromagnetic clutch fail. You need to source a replacement.
Just a thought
I ran a fault test on my cheapy ebay OBD 2 scanner and got no faults, would this indicate it is definately the fan and not the ecu or a sensor that controls it ?
I have read that the ecu controls the fan and that tere is a sensor as well.Was just wondering if there was a way to test it myself before i blow £500 on a fan coupling ?
TIA
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
15,622 Posts
Here is a thread on the Navara forum. ( Ignore the stuff about the viscous coupling)


In terms of testing, the odb won't give a fault code.

You would really want to measure the voltage to the fan coupling, you could try with a basic multimeter although I suspect an oscilloscope might be needed as it pulses on and off.

By the way, this time of year you can remove the fan blades without any worries.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
15,622 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Here is a thread on the Navara forum. ( Ignore the stuff about the viscous coupling)


In terms of testing, the odb won't give a fault code.

You would really want to measure the voltage to the fan coupling, you could try with a basic multimeter although I suspect an oscilloscope might be needed as it pulses on and off.

By the way, this time of year you can remove the fan blades without any worries.
Thanks for that
i did the try to move fan cold then hot and i cant m,ove it either
I had the truck running for 30 mins today and although the heater got warm (not hot) the temperature gague did not move, it is only 8c here at the moment
i tried the auto active test and when it got to the fan test part i just got a clicking and no fan coming on.
is it worth taking it out and trying the silicone fluid top up ?
Thanks again
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It looks like the part is available via partsouq for a bit less

There are 2 different types i see from the advert but neither are available at the moment, plus i am in France.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
15,622 Posts
There are 2 different types i see from the advert but neither are available at the moment, plus i am in France.
If you click the second item with the paper clip, you will see it lists 3, one of them is showing as available.

On the silicone fluid, that is not relevant on the electromagnetic clutch. I would still take it off and have a go at fixing it!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
If you click the second item with the paper clip, you will see it lists 3, one of them is showing as available.

On the silicone fluid, that is not relevant on the electromagnetic clutch. I would still take it off and have a go at fixing it!
ok thanks as you said before is it ok to unbolt the whole fan assembly from the engine and use the truck as its cold at the moment ( obviously not run it in traffic)
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
15,622 Posts
It won't be a problem. Actually it won't be a problem is heavy traffic either, diesel engines don't produce much heat at tickover.

The cooling system was designed to cope with towing heavy loads off road at high ambient temperatures, so is vastly overspecced for normal use.

Actually on the 2.5 engine, people have removed the fan permanently
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Actually the fan might have silicone fluid inside.
Hi There
Right i took the fan assembly out and took it apart and the viscous fluid was grey creamy and watery.
Am going to have a go at cleaning and replacing it with the toyota stuff that everyone talks about ( if i can get it here in France) only thing is , god knows how much to use ???
Also i have put it back together and have an engine fault code now but i think that is from the water i lost taking the hoses off but now i dont know how much water and how much coolant to put in ???????
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
4,937 Posts
If your referring to the mix water / coolant? Use ready-mixed or just straight coolant/antifreeze! If ever in doubt it's better to have the mix too strong than too weak! Especially when winter temperatures are dropping
 
  • Like
Reactions: deanofire999

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Just fill out right up. Any excess will be pushed out of the overflow. (The coolant)
Hi Again
just a quick update
i Topped up the the coolant system today (at least i think i have)
Before i did i had the engine warning light come on and it showed a code of P2457
Since topping up today , i cleared the fault on my obd and ran it again with no fault , but the engine symbol is still on, does this need to be reset or should it go off ?
I am not sure if it is because of the low coolant or the fact that the fan coupling is not connected ( as i removed it completely
Should i have just taken the fan of the coupling and left the coupling connected to the waterpum assembly ?
Also it took about 25 minutes for the temperature needle to move and the heater was very slow to warm up
afetr about 30 mins the temp was up to 60 and the heater was hot.
it is 9 degrees here today
 
1 - 20 of 29 Posts
Top