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Yeh that's the way it is, I checked when I fitted the new one as it had been plumbed wrong in the past by someone.

Could it be a worn actuator? It's on 104k miles, I've Had vacuum straight to the actuator bypassing the solenoid and it boosted strong, enough to blow the turbo to intercooler hose off
 

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Yeh that's the way it is, I checked when I fitted the new one as it had been plumbed wrong in the past by someone.

Could it be a worn actuator? It's on 104k miles, I've Had vacuum straight to the actuator bypassing
Better to disconnect the turbo actuator and make sure the turbo control lever is moving freely, VNT turbos can have issues with the control ring sticking due to carbon build up inside the turbo exhaust housing, This sometimes causes the ecu to but the system into limp home mode.
 

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Better to disconnect the turbo actuator and make sure the turbo control lever is moving freely, VNT turbos can have issues with the control ring sticking due to carbon build up inside the turbo exhaust housing, This sometimes causes the ecu to but the system into limp home mode.
I'll have a look into that, although it does move freely under vacuum from the actuator when idling, as above I have had the hose off the actuator and seen the rod move and when re attached it moves back up again
 

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I'll have a look into that, although it does move freely under vacuum from the actuator when idling, as above I have had the hose off the actuator and seen the rod move and when re attached it moves back up again
If you put direct vacuum on and off the actuator and the lever moving ok it should be ok, Also better to do a EGR bypass on your Truck, Also remove the turbo intake hose and check the impeller is spinning ok and there’s no excess lift on the shaft.
 

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All done. I've also replaced the hot pipe with an ally pipe and fresh silicone connectors and clamps.
Could the actuator be at fault?
 

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All done. I've also replaced the hot pipe with an ally pipe and fresh silicone connectors and clamps.
Could the actuator be at fault?
The actuator is strait forward to check it only a diaphragm and return spring. Just connect a vacuum feed direct from the vacuum pump and connect and disconnect the pipe and it should operate back and fore, Some garages use a hand operated vacuum pump to test it, The top end diagnostic scanners will operate the actuator from actuations.
 

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Ahh okay, well it's definitely not the actuator then as I've carried that test out and seen the correct results. I'm abit lost now really, all the obvious things have been done but I'm still having issues
 

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Ahh okay, well it's definitely not the actuator then as I've carried that test out and seen the correct results. I'm abit lost now really, all the obvious things have been done but I'm still having issues
 

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Ahh okay, well it's definitely not the actuator then as I've carried that test out and seen the correct results. I'm abit lost now really, all the obvious things have been done but I'm still having issues
Have you checked for fault codes on your vehicle, I take it the fuel filter and air filter are all ok,
 

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Yeh I did a check the other day and had faults for the MAF (replacement fitted), brake circuit and overboosting (vacuum straight to actuator to test)
Fuel filter was changed a few days ago and the air filter was done in January
 

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Yeh I did a check the other day and had faults for the MAF (replacement fitted), brake circuit and overboosting (vacuum straight to actuator to test)
Fuel filter was changed a few days ago and the air filter was done in January
Another common fault on the D40 is the fuel pump s.c.v they can be faulty with no fault codes showing up.
 

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If you put direct vacuum on and off the actuator and the lever moving ok it should be ok, Also better to do a EGR bypass on your Truck, Also remove the turbo intake hose and check the impeller is spinning ok and there’s no excess lift on the shaft.
Ok, m8 Cheers.
 
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