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Good ones are very expensive, so as per above posts, please make sure you check all the vacuum lines to the solenoid first!
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Good ones are very expensive, so as per above posts, please make sure you check all the vacuum lines to the solenoid first!
i’ve checked the lines, all are on properly, just don’t know if they are switched or not and don’t see why the mechanic would’ve switched them around


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They are very easy to mix up. You definitely need to verify hose location before anything else.

There are a few threads on here which cover correct hose termination, with pictures.
 

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This guy has laid it down for you!

 

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Discussion Starter #25
when i had a look this morning, the middle house on that diagram was definitely running to the turbo


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Discussion Starter #26
bypassed the solenoid and now have all the power back. ordered a new solenoid through nissan which will be here in the morning. cheers everyone!


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Discussion Starter #27
alrighty, put the new boost solenoid in and put pipes back to their correct spots, and now there’s still no power. turbo actuator does now move up and down on idle though, but still no power.


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How annoying...

So we know the turbo is OK as it worked when you bypassed the BCS. We also know that you are getting vacuum to the BCS (this can be a problem)
I would next try a reboot, disconnect a battery terminal and turn the ignition or hit the horn to discharge everything.
 

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alright no worries, i’ll just get a new one and see how it goes, cheers mate


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better to make sure your waste gate is working ok first before forking out on a turbo boost solenoid the waste gate lever could be starting to seize causing the problem, it’s a straight forward job to free it off if it’s starting to seize, Get your mechanic to check it out first.
 

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better to make sure your waste gate is working ok first before forking out on a turbo boost solenoid the waste gate lever could be starting to seize causing the problem, it’s a straight forward job to free it off if it’s starting to seize, Get your mechanic to check it out first.
Actually his model doesn't have a waste gate.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
mechanics having a look at it this morning. has new boost solenoid, pretty sure vacuum is ok due to it having plenty of power when bypassing the solenoid, so beyond my knowledge so mechanics turn to have another look. i did notice the metal retainer clip for the boost solenoid connection was missing also


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Discussion Starter #32
alright so got it back from the mechanic and they told me they’ve fixed it but still definitely not as much power and massive amounts of soot under acceleration. they’ve told me the reason for the soot is because of the injectors. not going through them anymore.
so to recap,
  • old turbo was dead
  • new turbo, less power then the old turbo.
  • actuator rod wasn’t moving on idle,
  • bypassed boost solenoid, power was all back
  • installed new genuine boost solenoid, re-ran the boost lines to the correct spots, actuator rod now moves on idle, test drove and no power again.
anymore ideas? doing a fuel filter on it tomorrow to try and rule everything out. surely there’s something i’m missing? damaged wiring somewhere for boost solenoid?? also put a egr blank aswell. cheers


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Definitely a new fuel filter and give the MAF a clean.

Worth investing $20 in a Bluetooth OBD dongle so you can read the actual boost numbers.

The garage techs are wrong, faulty injectors are noisy and tend to give white smoke.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Definitely a new fuel filter and give the MAF a clean.

Worth investing $20 in a Bluetooth OBD dongle so you can read the actual boost numbers.

The garage techs are wrong, faulty injectors are noisy and tend to give white smoke.
new fuel filter in tomorrow, i’ve got an Engine data scan tool but can’t seem to find boost pressure on it


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Discussion Starter #35
also gave the maf sensor a clean using electrical contact cleaner


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Discussion Starter #37
yeah can’t find anything along those lines


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yeah can’t find anything along those lines


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Looks as if your going in circles here all the basics should have been checked first for l.o.p ie fuel air filter etc, your garage should have connected a test boost gauge onto your vehicles and carried out a Road tested to check boost pressure this would have eliminated any faults with the boost side and saved you money, Looks like you may have a fuel system issue the most common fault on a D40 for l.o.p is a faulty s.c.v which does not always throw up any fault codes sometimes caused by dirt getting passed the fuel filter to the pump,
 

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Discussion Starter #39
alright and how can i find out if it’s a SCV problem?


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alright and how can i find out if it’s a SCV problem?


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Unfortunately sometimes they only way is to replace it, Have you had a egr by pass done yet before my d22 bit the dust with carbon build up was l.o.p and smoke from the exhaust when pulling away.
 
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