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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Went and brought a thermostat. Not heating on cold morning runs is no fun. I have done the burp of heater when cooling system was serviced. I have no drain plugs on heater at firewall. So heater up and cooled car.. and heater did get hot. But this was summer. So now it's winter. -2 this morning.. and no heat.

I've ordered thermostat and gasket but no gasket when I collected from parts store. He did a check and said it's an o-ring.. so can I reuse the old one or need to buy another?

Any suggestions for the job appreciated. Appears best to remove passenger side wheel and inner guard and then....

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You should be able to reuse the existing o ring.

If you remove the alternator the thermostat can be accessed.

Before you do that, have a go at bleeding the air from the cooling system. Running the engine at idle for 10 mins with the expansion cap off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So after some driving and pulling things to bits not sure I have a thermostat issue.

I've run the car for a bit to shops and back. Temp gauge to 1/3?

The heater pipes are warm/hotish..

So then tried to find connections for heater gate behind glovebox. Removed top and bottom glove boxes and still not too much to see. One additional connection on top of heater housing. Moving heater dial from hot to cold and back and hear nothing except the knob clicking.

Another trip out and I've discovered that heater and heat dial seem to work hot to cold and back.. if revs about 2000rpm. But even with car warm, if I park and idle, then heater temp cools down again.

So does this relate to water pump pressure increase with revs to push water through heater or increase in amps/volts from alternator keeping air gate open.as in bad connection or resistance. Any suggestions to assist diagnosis.. before I have whole dash out?

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Did you try bleeding the cooling system? So often that is the cause of no heater.

Loads of posts on here about this, here is a typical example

The guage should go halfway up the white section, so one third of the whole guage is normal.

Getting the heater matrix out is a huge job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So after some ******* about bought and multiple attempts to so try bleed of the heater matrix.

But I found that the heater worked sometimes and appeared to be based on the engine rpm.

So over the weekend I brought a jet flusher.. tap based mechanism with compressor attachment. So I semi drainer the radiator..then disconnected the heater core from block. I used a set of vice grips to close off the matrix link to the radiator overflow..

I then fitted two sections of hose. One to matrix input where overflow bottle connect and other by the injector pump. I then put the jet flusher on each side of the core and passed water through. Once a constant flow evident I pulsed the air through. Initially some back pressure was evident.. but multiple flushes and then I poured coolant into matrix from input hose before attachment back at firewall and Blick connector.

The heater is now warm and definitely resolved the issue.

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