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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
overall this is a simple process but be warned the radiator is very very easy to damage i have learnt the hard way so when i suggest caution it is because i already broke mine :twisted:

Step 1

under the car and remove the sump guard this is held on with lots of bolts and helps with the removal of the bottom half of the rad shroud.

Step 2

unclip the pipe running along the top of the shroud, then un-bolt the rad shroud. as you are facing the truck on the left attached to the rad is a fan find the plug and undo, then unbolt the fan at the top push the shroud back and remove the fan (this is to cool the aircon rad)

Step 3

remove the bottom section of the shroud this is a bit fiddly as it is clipped but it will come off, once off you sould be able to access the boldts that hold the fan to the clutch assembly. undo the and remove the fan blades.

step 3

CAUTION undo the bolts that attatch the cluch assembly to the pully. no be very careful and remove the clutch assembly without it hitting the rad as it comes off, i would advise you tape a bit of cardboard to protect the rad as i only tapped mine and it punctured the rad :evil: once the clutch assembly has been removed you should now be able to persuade the fan shroud out. it is fiddly but it will come out.

Step 4

now put back the small fan you removed and plug in. i opted for a 16" system from Kenlow with the small fan in place it only just fits and make sure the cable ties that hold the fan on are snug. follow the Kenlow instructions they are very straight forward.

Step 5

once everything has been put in place and wired in nice and neat it is time to fire her up and run upto temp, once up to temp and the thermostat has opened let the temp needle just edge past the normal position then turn the dial (if using a Kenlowe) until you hear a click the fan should now cut in. and the temp should stableize and sit at normal.

that is it you are done. as we had problems with mine i do not have any pics to back this up. however it is a straight forward process if you are happy using spanners and know your way round under the bonnett of a car. failing that it is an hours work and should cost no more than fifty pound to get a man to to it.

it makes a big differance in my opinion no bogging from a standing start and the engine is keener to pull from low revs and feels smoother i will run a couple of tanks of fuel and let you know about economy over the next few days. also i can post a before and after pic.

hope this helps :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Here are a few picks before and after.

we had just loosend the shroud
[/url][/img]

some after picks
[/url][/img]

this shows the thermo controll
[/url][/img]

just a clear shot you can see the four brass bolts that held the clutch assembly.

[/url][/img]
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
sorry for pic quality but i have taken them on my phone so not perfect but you should get the idea :lol:
 

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Jayk,
I totally agree that it is a worthwhile mod, I read somewhere on some engines, it is worth 8HP... On my 300TDi Disco I removed it and didn't bother with the electric one! Ran it for years, never hinted overheat and that included towing a lot of weight.

I've also removed them on my Range Rover and fitted electric.

The reasons I'm currently cautious are:

Car temp gauges are not linear so setting the thermostat up on a Kenlowe is a hit and miss afair.. You may unwittingly set it low so the fan is on too often or set it high so it comes on too late. If I remove the V Fan on the Navara, I'll guage the temp independently with an accurate meter then set the thermostat against that..

If you've removed the fan and ever have an engine problem that could be heat related, Nissan will probably show you the door. :shock:

An additional recommendation (if you have not done it already) is to fit a "Fan running" light on the fan side of the supply relay. That at least confirms that they are getting power and the thermostat and relay have worked correctly. I toasted a V8 because I assumed the fan was on but the relay had died... :cry:

Another caution would be securing the fan - I'd avoid using the ties that go through the radiator fins but try and secure it so the weight is supported elsewhere... The mass of a fan will fatigue the fins, potentially leading to leaks... :cry:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanks for your comments.
we did set up the temp independantly of the gauge in the car, they spent a lot of time ensuring the fan did not come on without reason.
kenlowe provide an indemnity for the life cycle you own the car, if there is a problem due to the conversion they will sort it though i do not think for a second this will happen.
as for securing the fan i looked into it and cannot see a problem it is very light and the biggest force would be tourqe when it cuts in and gets up to speed.
anyhow so far no problems and now winter is here it rearly comes on i have to sit in traffic for a long time.

cheers :lol:
 

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since most cars open the thermostat at 170, you should make the fan turn at 180 degrees.

thats the exact temperature you should try to find first.

I know this is old but for some future readers, its not right to "guess" when should the fan turn on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
i think you have been miss informed there my friend, the thermostat on the navara opens at 78Degrees!! the temp guage in the car only goes up to 120degrees :shock:

my fan cuts in at around 83Degrees this stops the temp building when in stationary traffic or slow moving traffic on very warm days. so the needle in the car remains exactly where it did with the viscouse set up.
 

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heres a handy tip for all the refidgeration engineers out there, mate of mine used a controller thingy from a fridge, to give him a digital readout in the cab of what the temp is and when the fan cuts out - works really well and looks cool (no pun intended!)



Works with something called a PT100 sensor in the bottom hose - whatever that is! :mrgreen:
 

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On a similar note:

my electric fan comes on,apparently for no reason. guage sits at 1/3 up (thermostat open temp), as always. Air-con off, driving carefully in this weather, mostly on by-roads. Add this to my erratic heater temperature, as mentioned in earlier posts, could the two be linked??

Any ideas
 

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If so why doesn't the temp guage move. Would be something to do with its position on the engine relative to the thermostat.
 

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Jayk,


YOur Radiator INlet and out let tube same position with mine.....side inlet and out let..........unlike spain type left and right tube more batter cool.......like my case.....with load simply can reach more then 221'F..dramaticly engine power reduce....

how you operate the 2 electric fan ? with thermo switch ??? or fan controller ?

Try do a fan shroud would batter alot..

Thx
 

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Yes old post resurrection i know but i've been thinking about this for a while. Today i had a Kenlowe fan fitted, early days yet but feels better already.

Seems more responsive as the viscous coupling is gone so no drag, and already showing slight mpg improvement :wink:
 
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