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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys and gals, new to the forum and looking for but of advice.
I have a 2010 R51 Pathfinder Automatic.
When I start it up, it runs for about 5 seconds and then the engine just shuts off, turn the key off, start it again and it starts right away again, then will shut off again, unless you keep the revs up about 1000 to keep the engine running (much to the annoyance of my neighbours).
This will continue happening until the engine starts to warm up (at least 3 minutes) then it will run fine, no loss of power, no black smoke.

I've had the car to three different garages, including a diesel specialist, and nobody has a clue what the issue is as there are no fault codes.

Things I've done so far,
Changed out oil, fuel and air filters.
New EGR valve (had fault code and moisture was found inside).
Cleaned throttle body housing.
Many bottles of injector cleaner have been put through the system and I did also have a bit of a misfire when it started up too, which actually sorted that out.

From what I have read on the forums, I think I'm going to try resetting the ECU by attempting the pedal dance as it's known, then, if there is no improvement, look into changing the suction control valve.

If anyone on here has any knowledge of this problem, then any insight and help would be greatly appreciated as I'm just about ready to give up and get rid of the vehicle. This issue started happening in the winter of 2021 and has been getting worse ever since.

Thanks.
 

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Hi guys and gals, new to the forum and looking for but of advice.
I have a 2010 R51 Pathfinder Automatic.
When I start it up, it runs for about 5 seconds and then the engine just shuts off, turn the key off, start it again and it starts right away again, then will shut off again, unless you keep the revs up about 1000 to keep the engine running (much to the annoyance of my neighbours).
This will continue happening until the engine starts to warm up (at least 3 minutes) then it will run fine, no loss of power, no black smoke.

I've had the car to three different garages, including a diesel specialist, and nobody has a clue what the issue is as there are no fault codes.

Things I've done so far,
Changed out oil, fuel and air filters.
New EGR valve (had fault code and moisture was found inside).
Cleaned throttle body housing.
Many bottles of injector cleaner have been put through the system and I did also have a bit of a misfire when it started up too, which actually sorted that out.

From what I have read on the forums, I think I'm going to try resetting the ECU by attempting the pedal dance as it's known, then, if there is no improvement, look into changing the suction control valve.

If anyone on here has any knowledge of this problem, then any insight and help would be greatly appreciated as I'm just about ready to give up and get rid of the vehicle. This issue started happening in the winter of 2021 and has been getting worse ever since.

Thanks.
Welcome to the forum.

Firstly, spot on changing the fuel filter and using injector cleaner.

Secondly, as you have found, many garages are completely useless at fault finding!

Thirdly, a fuel pump reset and new scv are unlikely to help.

Now down to business. It sounds to me like you have air in the fuel system. Before starting, squeeze the fuel primer until it goes firm. Then fire up and see how it behaves.

It may be something else, but this is the one to try first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Welcome to the forum.

Firstly, spot on changing the fuel filter and using injector cleaner.

Secondly, as you have found, many garages are completely useless at fault finding!

Thirdly, a fuel pump reset and new scv are unlikely to help.

Now down to business. It sounds to me like you have air in the fuel system. Before starting, squeeze the fuel primer until it goes firm. Then fire up and see how it behaves.

It may be something else, but this is the one to try first.
Hi, thanks for replying, the last garage it was at tested the fuel system and there are no leaks or air entering they system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
OK, next test..Disconnect the camshaft sensor plug located on the cylinder head, left hand side rear. If it then runs your timing chain is worn out.

View attachment 67081 View attachment 67081
So......I unplugged the sensor (which took me far too long to do as it is right at the back and very tight) and started the car.
Without touching the accelerator pedal, the thing never cut out at all. It was running quite rough though so after a minute I turned it off again. Plugged the sensor back in, started it up again and it cut out after 3 seconds.

So, to that end, what am I booking it in at the garage for? Does anything else get done alongside it?
 

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It is a mixture of good and bad news.

Good news first. The problem has been identified.

Bad news is the timing chain needs replacing.

The software on the ECU is designed to do exactly what you have experienced when it detects the timing chain has stretched. Earlier models didn't do that, the chain just snapped and wrecked the engine. You should be ok for bit, but don't leave it too long.

So what you need is the timing chain replaced. A decade ago many (including me ) replaced the timing chain with an upgraded double row chain, not needed though.

The kit isn't too expensive, around a couple of hundred (check out eBay) for the chain and plastic guides. Fitting the new chain is quite involved in that most of the stuff off the front of the engine has to come off. Probably around 10 hours labour. If you are interested search YouTube for Navara timing chain replacement.

So what you need is a number of quotes for replacing the timing chain and guides. A local independent will have the best labour rates, but it may be beyond them.

Monday morning, some phone calls!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Couple of other things...


If you want to read up, have a look here

There are a couple of specialists, Billcar in Shrewsbury and Kaisermotor in Kent. Neither of them are cheap, but they will do an excellent job. If you see anything from West Yorkshire Engines or anything else in or near Bradford please ignore it.
Couple of other things...


If you want to read up, have a look here

There are a couple of specialists, Billcar in Shrewsbury and Kaisermotor in Kent. Neither of them are cheap, but they will do an excellent job. If you see anything from West Yorkshire Engines or anything else in or near Bradford please ignore it.
Thanks, I think Shrewsbury and Kent might be a bit far for me to go as I'm right up in the North East in Sunderland. We do have Les Potts though who is a 4X4 specialist so I might pop and see them for a quote. What's the rough price I should be looking for for the entire job to be done?
 

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This site suggests £900 to £1100, sounds about the right ballpark. Guessing you have already spent quite a lot so far, but not as much as that.


It doesn't need to be a specialist but just a decent mechanic. Plenty on here have done the job on their driveways (We've even got a step by step guide)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Wow, really struggling to find anyone up here in the northeast willing to do the work.
Only 2 places so far have said they will do it, Nissan themselves, they quoted £2000.
And an engine rebuilder in Durham quoted £2400 and said it would take him 3 days to do the work and also couldn't fit it in until March.
I'm still waiting on another garage ringing me back with a price.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Found a place that will do it, quoted £1200 and can be done next week so got it booked in for that.
Slaters in Sunderland, they have actually had the car before for work done under an RAC warranty when I first bought the car. Hopefully this will fix the problem. Fingers crossed.
 
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