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I just had to improve the pathetic horn on the Navara from the
“excuse me please if it’s not too much trouble”
to something more like
“GET OUTTA MY WAY”

First thing was to purchase this FIAAM Low Tone Horn for a fiver:



In order to get to the horn on the D40 you need to remove the front grill, well here is a how to:

Lift up the bonnet and along the front where the grill assembly overlaps you need to remove half a dozen plastic clips. First you use a screwdriver like this to lever the middle bit up:

Then pop the whole clip out:

Then there are more clips securing the grill, one type marked in BLUE the other marked in RED:

You have to do the 4 side ones (Blue Arrows) first by using a flat blade screwdriver to turn the centre of the clip so it is square on with the hole (Turn the red bit to line up with the blue bit on the photo):

Then all you have left is 4 clips (Red Arrows) along the bottom of the grill.
The clip looks like this: (Photo taken after removal of grill for clarity)

The middle 2 you can get your hand down to, to help release them here:

And here:

The side ones are more difficult. I got my hand to the passenger side clip, but the drivers side, I slid a steel ruler in from the front between the grill and bumper to aid the release of the clip.
Once removed it looks like this:


I used the original mounting point and bolt to fasten my new horn’s bracket. Note the position of both horns brackets:

I used similar coloured cable to the factory wiring with female spade terminals crimped on for the new horn and joined this new wiring to the old horns wiring by cutting off the original spade terminals and putting both the old and new wires into a new spade terminal(x2)
(Sorry I forgot to take a piccy of that, I’ll post a pic later)

And hey presto I now have twin horns that sound miles better:


The horn now sounds like it should :mrgreen:

Bob

 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Although not the original, this is how its wired up.

And NO LAUGHING at my picture!

Disconnect the old horn and chop the ends off the wires.
Bare back the ends and fit into NEW spade terminals WITH the new wiring.
Tape everything up with black tape.

The factory wiring colours is Green with silver tracer and Black with Silver tracer.
I've used plain green and black for my new wiring, but it doesn't matter what colour wiring you use.



Hope thats clear enough!

Bob
 

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I am going to fit a Stebel Nautilus horn, instead of the standard horn.

The Nautilus comes with a Relay, does this require to be fitted or can i use the standard wiring?

Thanks for any information. Photo's are a great help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Scotrmz said:
I am going to fit a Stebel Nautilus horn, instead of the standard horn.

The Nautilus comes with a Relay, does this require to be fitted or can i use the standard wiring?

Thanks for any information. Photo's are a great help.
Depends on the horn and I don't know what the Stebel Nautilus is?

On the Navara its a twin wire system so a single wire horn wouldn't be suitable.

For the record, I got my Fiaam Low Tone Horn off ebay for £4.99 and with having it in addition to the factory horn the sound is EXCELLENT 8)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Scotrmz said:
Link to Nautilus installation.

http://www.stebel.it/stebel/NAUTILUS.pdf

I thought a relay was a switch!!!!! is there a relay factory fitted for standard horn?

Thanks for any help.
Looking at that it appears the Nautilus is a single wire horn and so will need the relay for operation. It complicates the installation so it depends on how competent you are with auto electrics.

I've not actually checked the Navara wiring diagrams as I fitted another twin wire horn so it didn't matter, but normally with a twin wire horn setup you have a live feed (+ve) going to the horn then the second wire is the earth (-ve) which goes to the horn push on the steering wheel. When pressed it earths out and completes the circuit, in effect its earth (-ve) switching.
Whereas a single wire horn is earthed through the mounting bracket and has a switched +ve feed wire for operation.

To operate your single wire horn you need to use the relay as shown in your instructions.
I could show you how to wire it up in person, but trying to explain in words is not so easy for me, I'd probably end up confusing you even more.
 

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Fitted PIAA Low Tone Twin Horn, instead of Nautilus. Not as loud as i expected, but much louder than standard.

The only trouble i had, was refitting, the 4 Side 45 degree turn grill fixings (blue arrow) , managed to locate in square, but unable to turn 45 degrees.

Is there a technique to refit?

Thanks.

Scotrmz
 

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This is one for the electrical minded on the forum.

I went and bought the nautilis horn mentioned above and it comes with a 4 spade relay.

Before I fit it, is the following fitting procedure correct?

1.Fit a positive feed from the battery with an inline 20a fuse to the relay.
2.Attach the current positive and negative horn wires to the relay using the correct spade connections.
3.Attach the positive from the relay to the horn
4.Fit a negative connection from the horn to earth on the bodywork.

In other words the relay uses two spade connections from the old horn wires.
The power from the battery go goes into the third spade connection and the fourth spade connection supplies the power to the horn when the button is pushed.

This way the horn button is used as a small current switch to the relay and the power for the horn comes direct from the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It sounds like you are correct but just to confirm:

Assuming its a SPST NO relay the terminals will be numbered 30, 85, 86 & 87
Connect your original horn wires to 85 & 86 and this will operate the relay
Connect your fused +12v supply wire to 30
Connect a wire from 87 to your horn +ve
Connect a wire from your horn -ve to the bodywork ensuring a good earth contact.

Make sure all your wires are secured and insulated against rubbing through and shorting out.

Simple really.

Bob
 

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For those of you who want to fit the Nautilis horn mentioned above this will show how to fit it.
The fitting time was about 2 hours as I did this in the middle of winter outside in the pi&&ing rain with a light wind in 2 degrees centigrade temp so I have to take a few breaks as me hands were freezing.

Bob's how to above, on how to remove the front grill is spot on and that took 10 mins. I found it really easy.

There's not alot of room under the bonnet supprisingly and the Nautilis horn is nearly twice a thick as the standard one and after a few location choices I decided that the orginal position was best.

I loose fitted the horn in place using the original bracket mount and then refitted the front grill to make sure that it would actually go back on which it did.

The wiring is pretty simple after you suss it out.

1. Direct feed from the battery using a 20 amp inline fuse carefully routed in front of the radiator and connected to the number 30 position on the relay.
2.Disconnect the original horn cables and attach the positive (green wire) to number 86 on the relay and the negative (black wire) to number 85 on the relay.
3.Attach a new power cable from the nautilus horn +positive to relay number 87
4.Attach a new negative from the Nautilus horn to the navara chassis. I used the Horn bracket mounting screw.
5.Mount the relay to the small locating screw just below the horn(see picture.
6.Test horn in a short blast as using it for too long will get you an asbo it's loud


I then bent the horn bracket slightly towards the radiator to give a bit more room as it is tight.
Refitting the front grill was a bit of a pain as the four cross screws in Bob's picture wouldn't align and it was made even worse with frozen fingers.

Job done and the horn is now definatly a get out of my way you [email protected]@rd at 150 decibels.
:D :D
 

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Chaps, it's definitey worth trying this one.

I followed Bob's "how to" to the letter and 40mins later no more P;ssy [email protected] but a more macho audio "nudge" for pedestrians.

I used a low tone Stebel horn with the original and the sound is GREAT!!!

Had to modify the mounting brackets a bit to put the horn slightly more to the back since it kept me from putting back the grill afterwards. Got it sorted in the end.

TIP: for the lower driver's side clip when removing the grill I used a short metal rod from below to push it up. I approached it through the gap in the front bumper (the one lacking a grill plate) which made it much easier...
:idea:
 

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I have just fitted the Stebel Nautilus horn without the Relay, connecting dircet to the exsisting wires, just wondering if it makes much difference?
 

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lquince said:
I have just fitted the Stebel Nautilus horn without the Relay, connecting dircet to the exsisting wires, just wondering if it makes much difference?
I've just fitted the same horn. Considering Stebel recommend 2.5mm wire and 20 Amp fuse and the toy it is replacing hardly blows a candle out and is connected to lightweight cable, I'd say so :shock:
 

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Tim,
As I mention a few posts up, it needs 17 Amp cable. I suspect the original one is fed with not much more than 8 Amps so you were probably overloading the cable.

As a quick check, you could always run two heavier cables direct to the battery and compare.

I wouldn't rely on the mount to earth it either, run an earth back to either the battery or chassis.
 

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http://www.ado13.com/techs/relay.htm

What the page linked above says is that in the case of a horn, the horn button would be used to switch the ground lead(85), and power(86) would be provided directly from the fuse box.

So if I understand this correctly, and assuming the green wire for the existing horn is positive and the black is negative (need to check these)...

- the old horn's negative black wire goes to ground(85)
- the old horn's positive green wire isn't used.
- take positive feed from fusebox to power(86)
- take positive feed from battery post to power(30)
- connect one new horn terminal to power(87)
- connect other new horn terminal to ground.

Or am I about to blow the Navara out of the sky? :oops:

Tim
 

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Tim,
Not quite mate, if I understand your thought, you have not actually connected the horn to the switch.

Don't bother grounding the old horn earth lead.
Connect the old horn positive lead to terminal 86.
Run a wire from 85 to ground.
Run a positive supply from the battery to 30. (***) with a 20 Amp fuse close to the battery.
Check the which terminal on the new horn is + and connect that to 87. (***).

Wires marked with (***) need to be 20 amp rated.
The earth from the horn to the earth also needs to be 20 Amp.
 

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The best way to re-fit the grill is to take the square clips off the body and fit onto the grill first. All you have to do then is line them up and push.
 

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Hello, just bought one of them Nautlis horns for my 05 D22, thought maybe the wiring would be same as the D40, but when I took the grill off I have two nissan horns with one wire connected to each, not very good when it comes to electrics but this how too made it look quite easy, but now I am not sure what to do, anyone got any ideas.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
p.russ said:
Hello, just bought one of them Nautlis horns for my 05 D22, thought maybe the wiring would be same as the D40, but when I took the grill off I have two nissan horns with one wire connected to each, not very good when it comes to electrics but this how too made it look quite easy, but now I am not sure what to do, anyone got any ideas.

Thanks
Not sure on D22 wiring, and I have had a couple or so drinks tonight, but generally speaking:

If a horn has only one wire connected to it, that is normally a +ve feed activated when pressing the horn. The horn earths internally / through the mounting bracket.
So you can use that single wire to operate a new horn or to power a relay for a new horn. All you have to do is add an earth connections where needed.

Bob
 
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