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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
After searching on the internet for 'Nissan Navara D40 central locking not working'
It seems to be a fairly common problem for one reason or another.
After trying all of the things people said, mine still wouldn't work.
The last option was to try an auto locksmith, he told me the fob was outputting a signal but the BCM was faulty.

I wasn't even going to get in touch with Nissan to get a quote to fix this, but I imagine a new BCM and reprogramming wouldn't have been cheap :serious:

Anyway, onto the fix.

Firstly I have to thank Charliethedog for helping with the relay wiring :bow

This will work as long as your centre lock button locks and unlocks all the doors.


Any universal central locking kit off eBay or Amazon etc will work for this, I bought the HAWK CDL-04R which was £20.
Out of the kit, this is all you need:

The centre lock button needs a negative trigger to activate both lock and unlock.
The above central locking kit is a positive trigger unit, so needs to be changed via a couple of relays from + to -
Two types of relay you can use:


And a micro relay:


The wires on the back of the lock switch you need are Green (Unlock) and Orange (lock).

Whatever universal C/L kit you buy, you'll have two trigger wires, usually to the master actuator.
On the HAWK kit, they are Green and Blue (it does actually say that the brown and white wire on the Hawk kit are negative trigger wires, but this only applies if using in conjunction with a Hawk theft alarm, I checked and they definitely didn't output a negative trigger for me.

Relay 1:
Take the lock trigger wire (Green on the Hawk kit) from your C/L kit and put that to the 1st relay terminal 85
Then run a wire from terminal 30 on the relay (out) to the orange wire on the back of the lock switch.
Terminal 86 and 87 (not 87a) are both ground (you can just link these to a chassis earth).
Relay 2:
Take the unlock trigger wire (Blue on the Hawk kit) from your C/L kit and put that to the 1st relay terminal 85
Then run a wire from terminal 30 on the relay (out) to the green wire on the back of the lock switch.
Terminal 86 and 87 (not 87a) are both ground (you can just link these to a chassis earth).

And that's it, job done :awesomework


Works a treat, cost £25 all in!

Once again thanks to Charliethedog.
 

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Indeed, good work.

Give Charlie a pat on the back too!
 

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It's a little hard to follow going back and forth to the pics from the google drive. I've ordered a universal remote central locking kit, just waiting on it's arrival.

Edit: I've attached images that are missing if anyone needs them as the links above don't work anymore for some reason.
 

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Quick question in the event someone is paying attention to this thread... Do you need to disconnect your battery when splicing/messing with any of these wires?
 

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Quick question in the event someone is paying attention to this thread... Do you need to disconnect your battery when splicing/messing with any of these wires?
That would be good practice yes although 12v wont electricute you theres a good chance you could blow a fuse/damage one of the many control modules and a slim chance you could even start a fire!
But its your truck so up to you!
 

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I ended up doing it with my dad who used scotch connectors to join everything so we didn't bother disconnecting the battery. All went well except we couldn't wire into the hazzards or indicators even with a relay and couldn't find the flash cans so we had to settle for the park lights.

One big issue is when I have the interior light set auto/door-open position it won't lock the car, the light needs to be set to off for it to work, usually the light turns off when you flick the switch to lock on the center dash so I have no idea why it doesn't work with the remote when it's performing the same action.

Possibly a flaw with the control box or a wiring issue but there are only 4 wires on the lock/unlock switch open & close signal and 2 grounds. So I have no idea what's going on.
 

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When i wired my remote start system I took the lock/unlock from the back of the lock/unlock switch on the dash
The indicators came direct to the bcm (left side drivers foot well) and the door open signal came from the pin switch on the drivers door (this does occasionaly cause issues if one of the other doors isn't closed properly)
 

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When i wired my remote start system I took the lock/unlock from the back of the lock/unlock switch on the dash
The indicators came direct to the bcm (left side drivers foot well) and the door open signal came from the pin switch on the drivers door (this does occasionaly cause issues if one of the other doors isn't closed properly)
Thanks for the replies. :)

I also wired into the center dash lock/unlock switch as per this guide from the OP... thanks for the info re: the flasher units landmannnn...

A couple of questions (bear with me, I'm very new to this :unsure:)

gfromleeds i had no idea i had to hook into the bcm for the indicators (as i would prefer them to the park lights) i looked around everywhere for the indicator wires even pulled apart the steering wheel surrounds probing all the wires, is there documentation on all the wiring for the bcm? (i'll check the ws manual)

Edit: sorted the remote lock/unlock and interior lights stuff. Just getting the indicators to work is all that's left now.
 

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The unlock/lock switch only seemed to have a problem with the light when I had the horn part connected. After disconnecting the horn all works fine. Next step is to hook the control box turning light wires into the indicators at the bcm.
 

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When i wired my remote start system I took the lock/unlock from the back of the lock/unlock switch on the dash
The indicators came direct to the bcm (left side drivers foot well) and the door open signal came from the pin switch on the drivers door (this does occasionaly cause issues if one of the other doors isn't closed properly)
Did you connect directly to any of these wires from the bcm for the indicators? if so, which ones and did you have to use a relay or diode etc..
64668
 

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Oh god I can't remember it was like 5 years ago lol
It was in that area though
I'd have a look for you but I've done that many changes and alterations over the years im not even sure what the wires ive added do lol
If i remember ill have a look in my haynes when i get home cos i think that's how I found them the first time
 

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Oh god I can't remember it was like 5 years ago lol
It was in that area though
I'd have a look for you but I've done that many changes and alterations over the years im not even sure what the wires ive added do lol
If i remember ill have a look in my haynes when i get home cos i think that's how I found them the first time
Ahh yeah lol i can imagine, I don't have a haynes for mine just the online split up pdf which i've had difficulty sifting through....
Any help is much appreciated (y)
Cheers.
 

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On the bcm
pin 47 (light green) =left indicator curcuit
Pin 48 (green) = right indicator curcuit
I conected the alarms output directly to these wires
64670
 

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Nice thanks heaps for that info!
Did you connect your wires directly or did you have to put a diode between?
No i connected them directly to the bcm
 
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