What is it doing? Is it turning over on the key? Is the Nats light flashing/steady when you turn the key?
New key barrel and matching ecu-wont start
Hi all, I have recently had my keys pinched and live in remote Australia. Cant get the Nav to a dealer for a new key so bought a second hand ignition and matching ecu to do a change over. Replaced them and now can't get her to start. Any suggestions would be great, thanks.
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Can you not code the new key to the existing ECU? I would imagine that swapping the ECU will cause more problems (probably). I was just looking in the workshop manual as I recall there's a way to code a new key without the Nissan equipment.
Edit: Found this for you. Worth a try!
Ensure all the doors have been unlocked, either by using a good transponder key or remote control plip key.
Procedure
1. Turn the ignition switch from Position 0 to ON 6 times within 10 seconds.
2. Then turn ignition switch to OFF position. Leave key in ignition switch.
3. After 2 seconds, the system will enter programming mode and will flash the warning lights twice.
4. Press and HOLD the unlock button on the Plip.
5. While pressing the unlock button, press the lock button 3 times.
6. Release the unlock button.
7. The warning lights will flash once to indicate successful programming.
8. Repeat procedure 4 to 7 for up to 4 plip key’s.
9. When completed turn ignition ON, and the warning lights will flash 2 times.
10. Remove key, and check all plip key’s for operation.
Note:
The programming mode will stop when either the ignition is switch ON, 4 plip keys have been programmed or no input
signal either from the switch or plip keys has been received for 120 seconds.
But I'm a little unsure about programming the second key, does it just have to be inside the car when following steps 4 to 7, or does it have to be in the ignition?
Edit: Found this for you. Worth a try!
Ensure all the doors have been unlocked, either by using a good transponder key or remote control plip key.
Procedure
1. Turn the ignition switch from Position 0 to ON 6 times within 10 seconds.
2. Then turn ignition switch to OFF position. Leave key in ignition switch.
3. After 2 seconds, the system will enter programming mode and will flash the warning lights twice.
4. Press and HOLD the unlock button on the Plip.
5. While pressing the unlock button, press the lock button 3 times.
6. Release the unlock button.
7. The warning lights will flash once to indicate successful programming.
8. Repeat procedure 4 to 7 for up to 4 plip key’s.
9. When completed turn ignition ON, and the warning lights will flash 2 times.
10. Remove key, and check all plip key’s for operation.
Note:
The programming mode will stop when either the ignition is switch ON, 4 plip keys have been programmed or no input
signal either from the switch or plip keys has been received for 120 seconds.
But I'm a little unsure about programming the second key, does it just have to be inside the car when following steps 4 to 7, or does it have to be in the ignition?
Hi, had to replace the keys on mine, so have a fair understanding.
Mine is a D22 Mk II (check profile pic).
When you say you bought the matching ecu, do you means the small one next to the ignition barrel?
Or do you mean the main one?
The one on the ignition barrel is what you need.
For your key to start the vehicle, you have to get it coded to match the box near the barrel.
The tap dance will just allow you to lock and unlock the car.
Hope this helps.
Mine is a D22 Mk II (check profile pic).
When you say you bought the matching ecu, do you means the small one next to the ignition barrel?
Or do you mean the main one?
The one on the ignition barrel is what you need.
For your key to start the vehicle, you have to get it coded to match the box near the barrel.
The tap dance will just allow you to lock and unlock the car.
Hope this helps.
Also, if you put key in and turn to second stage/ON position, does the flashing red light on top of the dash stop flashing?
If not, then your NATS is not being de-activated by your new key.
If not, then your NATS is not being de-activated by your new key.
Hi all, thanks for the responses.
Yes it turns over.
The Nats light steady when turning over, then flashes when in on position.
Nomisco, will try when I get home.
Again, thanks.
Yes it turns over.
The Nats light steady when turning over, then flashes when in on position.
Nomisco, will try when I get home.
Again, thanks.
Your key is being rejected by the NATS box.
When you say ecu, did you get the one next to the ignition barrel?
That's the one which accepts/rejects your keys.
Might say siemens on it...
When you say ecu, did you get the one next to the ignition barrel?
That's the one which accepts/rejects your keys.
Might say siemens on it...
That'll be the procedure for matching a new key with the old ECU. A new ECU might not have the right security to talk to another vehicle component, so there may be more to it. Best to start with the fewest unknowns :thumbright:HarryStottle said:Hi all, thanks for the responses.
Nomisco, will try when I get home.
Again, thanks.
It occurs to me that the injectors need to be tuned in to the ECU via the Nissan Consult program. Obviously this has not been done with the new ECU so this and possibly other tuning issues may stop the new ECU from working straight away.
I have to have a new key made and went through the entire process a couple of months ago, its the module next to the key barrel that has to come with the key for the NATS to work. It reads and accepts the transponder info.
Did you have a spare key for the old ecu?
Sure theres a way to just delete the lost key?
Sure theres a way to just delete the lost key?
Sorry Fatha, the small box next to the barrel on the D40, is the Transponder/receiver, its plug in and play.fatha said:I have to have a new key made and went through the entire process a couple of months ago, its the module next to the key barrel that has to come with the key for the NATS to work. It reads and accepts the transponder info.
I know, I've swapped mine. That will not be the problem. (unless it didn't work before losing keys)
Your correct about the Nats bit, but not that component, on the D40
Going back to topic, did you get a complete ECU set? Nats ECU, BCM, etc?
One thing, at some point you will need to register your injectors with the ECU, the barcode data on each injector signifies the calibration data on injector manufacture, this data allow the ECU to give the correct timed output signal to the injector, however, your truck should still start and run, maybe not perfect, but hardly noticeable.
Another question, have you got the correct ECU for your truck, there are many differing ones!
If it's just a key you need, have you a good local auto locksmith? you only need the Nats pin number for your old ECU, send me a photo of your ECU,( with the whole label on it) I may be able to generate the correct Nats pin code.
Any half decent auto locksmith should be able to do this for you, and also code the keys you have been provided on the 2nd ecu.
One other thing, always make sure you disconnect the battery earth before performing any ecu swap out, they do not like been connected with power on.
If his truck is a D22, forget everything I've posted above, (it's in D40 section)
I hope this guy got out from the bush, has anyone got the contact number for international rescue?
You also need the bcu to match. So.. key, ignition, ecu and bcu all must match coming from the same vehicle for sure and itll start. Bcu = body control module.Hi all, I have recently had my keys pinched and live in remote Australia. Cant get the Nav to a dealer for a new key so bought a second hand ignition and matching ecu to do a change over. Replaced them and now can't get her to start. Any suggestions would be great, thanks.
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
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