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Check, fuel filter, air filter, MAF, boost solenoid, intercooler clips and hoses.
 

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Good day guys,
I am new to this forum so humblest apologies if I started a new post that has already been dealt with, but here it is.
My 2006 D40 aventura has lost a lot of power and is producing lots of black smoke. I took it to my mechanic and this is what's been done so far. Diesel filter and air filter change, EGR blank, MAF sensor cleaned and ecu scanned but has no codes.
I don't hear the familiar whistle from the turbo and I don't feel the kick I normally get when it cuts in. Hills I usually climb in 4th gear I am now doing in 2nd. On stand still when the engine is revved, I can see the hose that leads to the intercooler on the side with air filter box swelling so I can see some boost is being produced on stand still. The engine and turbo has no strange noises.
When the above filter changes etc was done, the truck pulled good with no black smoke on heavy acceleration. Thought the problem was solved but it returned a few minutes later, disappeared for about 5 mins of ordinary driving and then returned. My D40 is the first of only two on the island so the mechanic is not used to navara d40 issues. I have the truck for a year now. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Hi thanks for posting this. Here I am in year 2020 with similar problems. My story is I blew my turbo few weeks ago. Bought a new one and installed, but my D40 still smokes and has no power.
Any help will be much appreciated.
 

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Hi thanks for posting this. Here I am in year 2020 with similar problems. My story is I blew my turbo few weeks ago. Bought a new one and installed, but my D40 still smokes and has no power.
Any help will be much appreciated.
What made you Believe the turbo was blown ? They are usually the last port of call with black smoke and loss of power .As above ,if not blown intercooler hoses or intercooler holed are more likely issues to cause it.
 

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The other thing I found was the boost solenoid failure produces a lot of black smoke and huge loss of power.
 

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There have been many dozens of people who have come on here having wasted their money on a new turbo.
This probably isn't the last one either.
 

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Good day all

I have been following this chat for a while now and thought I will ask for some assistance.
Have a 2008 pathfinder 2.5 dci, same yd25 motor as navara, with auto gearbox and 260,000km on clock

Vehicle wasn't smoking but also didn't have monster power and was happy with fuel consumption of 9,5km/l, but leak oil into intercooler

New that the turbo was leaking oil at seal and reached the outlet of the intercooler, so replaced the turbo as I thought it might be time and easier.

During this time I replaced the turbo valve as well and blanked of the egr, cleaned the MAF and all air pipes and intercooler.
Intercooler was cleaned with fuel to get rid of all oil, but left to dry.
All vacuum hoses from turbo valve was also replaced.

Since then had no power and smoking alot and fuel consumption went to 4 km/l and could not get it above 100km/h

Egr is leaking a little air at the blanking plate, still have to seal this.
Replace the trubo valve with a second unit due to lower pressure than normal on first per Nissan mechanic.

Cat and dpf has been removed, vehicle has power as before and getting to 100km/h much easier, but still smoking alot and still not the monster power these vehicles normally have

Wondering if worth while to replace the MAP sensor on intercooler and suction valve.

Any suggestions ?
 

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Firstly, you probably didn't need to replace the turbo, the oil is from the breather. Anyway done now, hopefully you didn't bolt on a cheap Chinese turbo.

Assuming you have a 05 to 10 Spanish build, it is quite likely the boost control hoses are connected wrongly. Worth double checking as they are marked.
 

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It is a Thailand build, but did check the hoses to make sure, used previous message on this chat to make sure. Vac line goes across to motor middle to actuators for turbo and other to air intake.
Got a Garrett replacement trubo, also based on comments on this forum.

Is there a major difference between Spain and Thailand build ?
 

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I thought the Thai models had a waste gate rather than a vacuum controlled variable vane turbo, but I must have thought wrongly.

Just a double on the boost control, does the little actuator arm pulse up and down at idle? If so, all is fine there.
 

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Apologies, it is a Spain build so you might very well be right
Yes,actuator arm does pulse up and down on idle.
Does that then mean it is not the MAP sensor or suction valve ?
 

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Apologies, it is a Spain build so you might very well be right
Yes,actuator arm does pulse up and down on idle.
Does that then mean it is not the MAP sensor or suction valve ?
It means that the boost control solenoid and the boost sensor are probably ok.
 

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I have similar issues with my D40 YD25DDTi. Need 2nd gear to climb hills and top speed around 60mph. Fuel consumption around 23mpg Vs 35mpg when all ok.

I've changed the turbo control solenoid, changed the MAF sensor, checked the MAP (boost) sensor, changed the fuel and air filters. Torque app shows less than 5psi boost, intercooler pipe (when squeezed) has only a slight increase in pressure when engine revved. Turbo control solenoid clicks away as expected, vac lines checked and correctly connected, turbo vacuum actuator bobs uip and down as expected at idle.

Finally, I took it to a local and trusted mechanic who quickly diagnosed turbo. I changed the turbo, the removed turbo showed no obvious signs of failure, although I didn't strip it. Identical problem still exists with new turbo.

I'm now wondering if a blocked catalyst could be restricting the flow of exhaust and therefore the speed of the exhaust gas past the turbine. Is that a likely problem, has anyone heard of blocked exhaust/Cat and is there any way to check or confirm? Having just replaced the turbo, I don't relish trying to extricate the Cat unless it's a likely culprit.

I've been trying to sort this problem for aboul 9 months. Any help, advice or experiences much appreciated.
 

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Have removed cat and DPF from my Pathfinder and remapped the ECU. Made a massive difference, but still not as good as it can get, but I haven't replaced the suction valve, nor the timing chains. Heard the bottom chain stretches and cause the timing to go out slightly, which in turn results in same symptoms. Not sure if I want to go down that road as it can become expensive
 

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I have similar issues with my D40 YD25DDTi. Need 2nd gear to climb hills and top speed around 60mph. Fuel consumption around 23mpg Vs 35mpg when all ok.

I've changed the turbo control solenoid, changed the MAF sensor, checked the MAP (boost) sensor, changed the fuel and air filters. Torque app shows less than 5psi boost, intercooler pipe (when squeezed) has only a slight increase in pressure when engine revved. Turbo control solenoid clicks away as expected, vac lines checked and correctly connected, turbo vacuum actuator bobs uip and down as expected at idle.

Finally, I took it to a local and trusted mechanic who quickly diagnosed turbo. I changed the turbo, the removed turbo showed no obvious signs of failure, although I didn't strip it. Identical problem still exists with new turbo.

I'm now wondering if a blocked catalyst could be restricting the flow of exhaust and therefore the speed of the exhaust gas past the turbine. Is that a likely problem, has anyone heard of blocked exhaust/Cat and is there any way to check or confirm? Having just replaced the turbo, I don't relish trying to extricate the Cat unless it's a likely culprit.

I've been trying to sort this problem for aboul 9 months. Any help, advice or experiences much appreciated.
Welcome to the forum.

First one

Bypass the BCS by putting the VAC hose directly on the actuator. If it makes no difference then the boost control is ok.
 

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Welcome to the forum.

First one

Bypass the BCS by putting the VAC hose directly on the actuator. If it makes no difference then the boost control is ok.
Thanks Landmannnn, I did try that some time ago. Made no difference. I also tried connecting a hand vac pump directly to the actuator vac inlet and manually activated the actuator. Still no difference.
 

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Thanks Landmannnn, I did try that some time ago. Made no difference. I also tried connecting a hand vac pump directly to the actuator vac inlet and manually activated the actuator. Still no difference.
So, if boost control is OK, what could be preventing boost? I'm tending to suspect exhaust flow but don't want to head down another rabbit hole without justification. Is there any way the exhaust system can easily be checked for restriction? Or are there any other areas worth examining?
 

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Ok thanks, checking the cat may be the next step. I guess the only way is check the cat is to remove it? Is it worth fitting a de-cat pipe? Any MOT issues with that?
 
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