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Hi. I need to put a socket in the back of the truck to run a cooler box. I am thinking about running it all the way into the fuse in the glove box, but wondered if anyone had any other ideas? I only want it powered when the engines on, don't want to risk draining the battery. I read that the Aussie versions have wiring above the left wheel arch. I have taken a look and think there is wiring there, but I reckon its just for the fuel cap unlock.

Anyone done this already? got any bright ideas?
 

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Hi. I need to put a socket in the back of the truck to run a cooler box. I am thinking about running it all the way into the fuse in the glove box, but wondered if anyone had any other ideas? I only want it powered when the engines on, don't want to risk draining the battery. I read that the Aussie versions have wiring above the left wheel arch. I have taken a look and think there is wiring there, but I reckon its just for the fuel cap unlock.



Anyone done this already? got any bright ideas?


As you say, this is already done from the factory for me!

The socket is permanently live, and the manual is scarce in detail, but I think the CANBUS controller may automatically disconnect the power if the battery voltage falls too far.

In any case, most modern 12V fridges include a low voltage cutout, usually programmable.

I guess my point is, I’d make it permanent. Not ignition-switched. That’s easier to do as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #3

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If you’re only looking to power a cooler, and only occasionally, another good option is a battery box like this one:
https://www.baintech.com.au/ultimate (you can find similar with less Ah for half that price or less).

That should run a 40L compressor fridge for several days and you can then remove it and recharge from mains power when you don’t need it. Also transportable to your next/other car.
 

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This is something i have been looking into myself, as i would like to mount some spots on the hillbilly bar.
personally i would be inclined to mount a secondary fuse box to the rear interior of the cab, and then run my wires through via a hole with a rubber gromit and some decent conduit.
having looked, i don't THINK there are any obvious existing holes in the back of the cab? (someone please correct me if im wrong)

Alternatively, run a decent gauge wire from the battery (perhaps use an amp wiring kit) under the vehicle to a waterproof fuse box that can be mounted in the tub, then you can have a number of power points?
 

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That's what I did on my D40 with a fuse box mounted behind the back seat. The D40 has a cabin vent rear left of the cabin, does the NP300 have a vent?
 

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That's what I did on my D40 with a fuse box mounted behind the back seat. The D40 has a cabin vent rear left of the cabin, does the NP300 have a vent?
Was this ok? no issues with condensation or leaks ect?
i did look at it and thought about utilizing it with a droop in the loom to stop drips getting into the cab ect.

i might take another look at this and see if i cant take out the vent and modify to allow a solid panel to be fitted sans one of the flaps..because im fussy like that :laugh2:
 
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