Nissan-Navara.net banner
1 - 20 of 72 Posts

·
Registered
2005 navara D40 Outlaw
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,
Not long been a member but have been scouring the forum's resources for the last few days hunting for information on replacing the rear half of the d40 chassis.
My 06 outlaw has snapped clean in two on the usual passenger side of the chassis where the majority fail.
I'm not certain replacing a part of the box section and then strengthening would suffice and am aware that a few have successfully replaced the rear half of the chassis only.
I love my nav, and ill never part with it, it's not used much nowadays but it's a keeper , most have fancy flash sports cars for their weekend cars. Me, I have my menacing matt black d40..

Have any members successfully done a rear half replacement or repaired a snapped box section of the chassis?
Searched my heart out in the forum, but I've not come across anything that relates.
I look forward to any responses, and thanks
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
16,670 Posts
There's a few, here's one. If you are handy with a welder, it's none too technical.

 

·
Registered
2005 navara D40 Outlaw
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
There's a few, here's one. If you are handy with a welder, it's none too technical.

Thanks for your response, yes I had a good read of that post prior to posting.
My query is obtaining a structurally sound rear half chassis, and replacing mine with it. From what ive seen its usually done from just infront of the rear cab mounting points but not a huge amount of information online.
One company sells an engineered rear half chassis.
Over the years I've welded many things, most recently the rear sub floor of my e46 m3 as they have a common issue of cracking.
I was tempted to replace the box section where it has snapped and then re enforce it, but I've also noticed a crack under the drivers side rear cab mount which looks to be a ball ache to repair based on where it is, when I say crack, it's more a canyon
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
16,670 Posts
Most people scrap the vehicle at this stage as the cost of the rear chassis and welding is probably more than the value of the vehicle.

Not great to be honest, but things like the engine, gearbox etc are still quite valuable.

If you are going down the repair route, it will require the body and the tub lifting from the chassis. Not as hard as you might think.
 

·
Registered
2005 navara D40 Outlaw
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Most people scrap the vehicle at this stage as the cost of the rear chassis and welding is probably more than the value of the vehicle.

Not great to be honest, but things like the engine, gearbox etc are still quite valuable.

If you are going down the repair route, it will require the body and the tub lifting from the chassis. Not as hard as you might think.
Thank you, tub is off. Getting my head around lifting the body now
 

·
Registered
2005 navara D40 Outlaw
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi all, does anyone know if the rear damper bolt/pin that goes through the chassis at the rear for the top of the damper to bolt to is available from Nissan?
The parts desk guy I've spent 20 minutes describing the part to hasn't any idea?
Many thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
If you go onto the partsouq website, eventually you will find the right parts diagram. If available it will provide the part number.
I bought a D40 outlaw 09 reg. Fuel tank straps corroded away and collapsed a couple of months ago. I spoke with nissan and the free inspections have now stopped. Has anyone heard of what to do now, as it will be a nightmare to sell and no use if it is likely to collapse.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
354 Posts
I bought a D40 outlaw 09 reg. Fuel tank straps corroded away and collapsed a couple of months ago. I spoke with nissan and the free inspections have now stopped. Has anyone heard of what to do now, as it will be a nightmare to sell and no use if it is likely to collapse.
Your better to sell it on eBay for spares or repair and cut your losses, You can spend a fair bit of cash on welding repairs and the issues with corrosion is still there,
 

·
Registered
2005 navara D40 Outlaw
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Long time no update, today I finally finished rebuilding and strengthening my rear chassis.
It's been a long and slow process as I work shifts and have 2 little ones and a naggy better half but I'm proud to have done this myself.
Few little bits and bobs to snag and then underseal before I can refit the tub and start giving it a very in depth service...
This forum has been so helpful for information and ideas thanks to you all
 

·
Registered
2005 navara D40 Outlaw
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I'll get some photos in due course but as with all things new, teaching myself to weld and fabrications sections wasn't pretty at first resulting in many attempts being cut out and re done however I quite enjoy welding now, its been a pleasant learning experience
 

·
Registered
2005 navara D40 Outlaw
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
A few questions...

Did you just lift off the tub?

Did you buy repair sections or just use 3 or 4mm plate?

How long did it take you?

Any tips learnt?
Hi, yes just rear tub removal.

I didnt buy sections I bought pre formed 3mm rectangular box section lots of it and made my own sections due to not being able to get sections the same dimensions this involved alot of cutting and welding. I did find the more I picked away at sketchy bits the more I ended up replacing.
After repairing the damaged areas I then plated entirely in 3mm and 5mm sections. The stasis repair kit I purchased wasn't uses in the end as the damaged area now has an exo skeleton welded over the new sections.
After this I focused on strengthening the areas that run down under the rear of the cab as I suspect stress will now be placed there after having strengthened the rear section.
I had a new pin fabricated for the damper top mount.

If you can turn your hands to most things with a bit of research and
 

·
Registered
2005 navara D40 Outlaw
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
are patient and fussy it's not impossible to do, but I would advise and welding that's not great, re do.

Sadly today I had one small area to repair on the drivers side before I can get out in it again, but upon inspection I now need to lift the body as I cant get to it well enough to make sure the welding is spot on.
Spent the morning stripping the seats, doors off, wings, bumpers, bonnet, radiator shrouds. Loosened all the mounting bolts.
I'm stumped with the steering mechanism. Not sure where to start with that in order to lift the shell
 

·
Registered
2005 navara D40 Outlaw
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Can anyone advise of the essentials in the engine bay that will need to be removed to lift the shell?
I am now debating if I can just lift the rear 12 inches I should be able to crack on, but I've stripped the shell down today so may still lift the entire of it off.
Thanks
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
354 Posts
Can anyone advise of the essentials in the engine bay that will need to be removed to lift the shell?
I am now debating if I can just lift the rear 12 inches I should be able to crack on, but I've stripped the shell down today so may still lift the entire of it off.
Thanks
A better option would be to unbolt the cab mount’s and jack the body up and put blocks in to support the cab to gain access this would save you a lot of work removing the cab.
 

·
Registered
2005 navara D40 Outlaw
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
A better option would be to unbolt the cab mount’s and jack the body up and put blocks in to support the cab to gain access this would save you a lot of work removing the cab.
Thank you, I've been thinking about this and you are right, much less work indeed. Its ready to lift up so will have a go tomorrow if I can find suitable blocks to use.
Still a bit concerned about the steering shift, trying to work out how I can disconnect it
 

·
Registered
2005 navara D40 Outlaw
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I might get some 4x4" fence posts and cut them to sit across the chassis for the body lower lips to sit on. Just hope I can get it a good 6 to 10 inches high
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
354 Posts
I might get some 4x4" fence posts and cut them to sit across the chassis for the body lower lips to sit on. Just hope I can get it a good 6 to 10 inches high
Good idea, you would also be better to leave the two front bolts in the cab just slacken them of to stop the cab moving forward. Seen the cab being removed on YouTube they used a fork lift to remove it, Fair bit of weight.
 
1 - 20 of 72 Posts
Top