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2005 navara D40 Outlaw
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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Yet again , thank you for taking the time to take those photo's. It is greatly appreciated.
I am however left well and truly stumped.
To get the tub lined up with a nice even gap where it meets the cab I need to raise the rear 55/60mm off of the mounting points.

I cannot for the life of me work out why.
I have noticed it is not the origional tub as it is silver in its origional colour not black like the rest of my nav. I had wondered if it had bent/twisted when the chassis leg snapped but it all seems to measure up fine.
My welding days are not quite done it seems, one last bit of box section fabricating to be done to raise the rear
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Hi landmann

Rather than start a new thread I wanted to ask you about my next purchase If that's ok

Which in your opinion is the better lift kit for the rear suspension the block spacer or upgraded shackle type of lift kit?
 

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From an engineering perspective a spring block isn't the best solution. If you think about forces when you accelerate, the extra leverage from block will try to make spring S shaped.

Not a major one, but that S shape (albeit slight) will rebound and could cause axle tramp.

In practice, not really sure how much difference it will make.... But my choice would always be extended shackles (and therefore no mucking around with rusty U bolts!)
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
From an engineering perspective a spring block isn't the best solution. If you think about forces when you accelerate, the extra leverage from block will try to make spring S shaped.

Not a major one, but that S shape (albeit slight) will rebound and could cause axle tramp.

In practice, not really sure how much difference it will make.... But my choice would always be extended shackles (and therefore no mucking around with rusty U bolts!)
As ever thank you for the honest advice 🙏
 

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Absolutely nothing is connected to it. It is just a breather getting fresh air for the diff, the pipe in the engine bay means you won't get water/mud into the diff.

For some unknown reason they didn't put a raised breather on the rear, so it can suck water into the rear diff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Absolutely nothing is connected to it. It is just a breather getting fresh air for the diff, the pipe in the engine bay means you won't get water/mud into the diff.

For some unknown reason they didn't put a raised breather on the rear, so it can suck water into the rear diff.
As always thank you ....
Someone has added a breather pipe to my rear diff and raised it up to the chassis level as it happens
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Productive day

Gearbox oil Change, engine oil and filter, fuel filter. Transfer box oil Change, front and rear diff oil Change. Fan belt and drive belt Change. New battery fitted

Belts are squeeling away now and also discovered I need a new radiator as the top mounting lugs have snapped off...

Coolant gauge isn't working and drivers door won't lock 😂
 

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Some good preventative maintenance.

The belt tightness is 10kg per mm on the longest run. Something like press as hard as you can with your thumb to see it deflect 1 mm. That is much tighter than you would expect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Since good preventative maintenance.

The belt tightness is 10kg per mm on the longest run. Something like press as hard as you can with your thumb to see it deflect 1 mm. That is much tighter than you would expect.
Ahh, my local garage told me I should be able to twist it 90° on the longest run with just a finger and thumb. It's clearly too loose! Thank you for that nugget of information
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
I'm guessing my tensioner pulley is stuffed.

Tightened the belt like you recommended.
The squeeling was worse and I noticed small sparks coming off the top of the tensioner wheel, seems its touching the upright adjustment arm.

Knackered?
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Tread Motor vehicle
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Another new job for the list.
Slight leak from the sump gasket.

Good posts regarding no gasket and to use rtv instead however a few have mentioned a sequence for re fitting the bolts. Has anyone any more info on this? And torque settings
 

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I'm guessing my tensioner pulley is stuffed.

Tightened the belt like you recommended.
The squeeling was worse and I noticed small sparks coming off the top of the tensioner wheel, seems its touching the upright adjustment arm.

Knackered? View attachment 66431
Did you release the bolt in the middle of the tensioner before adjusting it? It looks like the tensioner has been adjusted without doing that which has bent the arm a bit.

Anyway, it looks like the tensioner bearings have gone.
Cheap way of sorting out is to buy two new bearings for the tensioner pulley. SKF 6301 - 2RS1 for a few quid each. If not then a pulley is £30
 

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Another new job for the list.
Slight leak from the sump gasket.

Good posts regarding no gasket and to use rtv instead however a few have mentioned a sequence for re fitting the bolts. Has anyone any more info on this? And torque settings
There is no gasket, just sealant.

I have pm'd you the relevant manual section for torque and assembly instructions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
Did you release the bolt in the middle of the tensioner before adjusting it? It looks like the tensioner has been adjusted without doing that which has bent the arm a bit.

Anyway, it looks like the tensioner bearings have gone.
Cheap way of sorting out is to buy two new bearings for the tensioner pulley. SKF 6301 - 2RS1 for a few quid each. If not then a pulley is £30
Thanks, it's always been tight maybe the previous owner I've definately stuck to the guide when adjusting it. New one on order!

I'm desperate to start on the respray but every day I add more to the mechanical list..

Thanks for the pm very handy 👍
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Millners have the full tensioner arm/pulley at £54.
Might have a go at removing and straightening the adjuster tmrw, if that works ill order some bearings up
 
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