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Discussion Starter #1
First of all, this is not a "How to" as that exposes me to liability for your Safety if you follow it. This is therefore some observations I made which may help your job go quicker. It is your responsibility to assess the job and take precautions required to prevent injury. If you are in any doubt of your ability, get a professional to do the job. :D

Tools Required.
Decent Trolley Jack and Packers to get to the Towbar Subframe.
Axle Stands to secure the vehicle.
Bottle Jack for Supporting Axle.
18mm Socket and Spanner for Spring Pivot Bolts, Shackles & Shock Absorber Nuts.
7/8" (or mm equiv) Socket & Spanner for Spring Pivot Bolts.
21mm Socket for U Bolt Nuts.
13/16" Spanner for Shock Absorber Nut.
Big Hammer & Drift.
Rachet Strap for Pulling Axle into Place.

1. Drop the spare wheel down and remove from the vehicle. (This makes access to the bolts possible).

2. Think carefully about where you support the body when the wheel is off as you need good access to the springs and shackles. I lifted it with a trolley jack and then added a stand as shown. Weight was then shared between them both and blocks added under the chassis just in case.

3. The Axle is under the spring so when the U bolts are undone, the axle could drop. I placed a bottle jack under the axle which also allowed me to move it up/down when I was fitting the spring.

4. Unclip the brake flexi and the electrical cable from the axle to give more movement when fitting the springs. You need to remove the shock absorber as well to allow the axle to droop far enough to remove the springs.

5. Undo the front pivot nut & bolt on the spring. They are not locked (ie the chassis is not threaded) so it is easy to get off. Remove the nuts from the shackles at the back and the nuts off the U Bolts. By lowering the bottle jack, the spring will come out of the brackets. Rotate it round towards you and lift it out - BE CAREFUL AS IT IS A HEAVY / AWKWARD LUMP.

6. Before fitting the new spring, hacksaw the threaded bit off the bolt in the middle or the bump stop will not seat properly. !!Do the same in reverse to get the new one in but it is tricker as the spring is higher. Loosely fit the U bolts and rear shackes. At this point, I found the axle had move horizontally slightly.

I used a ratchet strap round the axle into one of the holes in the chassis to gently pull the spring / axle assembly into place. Fit all bolts but do not torque up yet!

7. Refit the brake flexi and cable to their clips. You may need to consider fitting longer flexi's depending how you use the wagon. (Mine are on order).

8. Check everything and refit the road wheel, remove jacks etc to get weight on the spring then torque the shackes / pivot and shock absorber bolts.

9. Have a coffee, do the other side. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #3
TBR in Essex. Cheaper than Frogs Island who also stock it.
 

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Devon 4x4 do it as well, speck to Liz.
 

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Thanks

Which leaf spring did you buy? the the medium load or the 400kg

Also is it a bumpy ride now compared to standard ones?

Thanks for any Help
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The springs and shocks have settled in really nicely :D (and I don't mean sagged!). Its firm without being bumpy and seems a lot more sure footed. I've got a few bumps to/from work where the old springs used to set up a bit of a rocking motion (fwd/back like a boat) but the OME's cope with them no bother...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Its 2" higher at the rear, slightly less at the front. Doesn't look it because it is sitting with the front LH wheel up a bump :?
 
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