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Retain factory microphone with aftermarket head unit

12K views 12 replies 5 participants last post by  landmannnn 
#1 ·
Hello everyone! I'm in the process of installing a new head unit in my truck and this forum has been a lot of help. One thing I couldn't find is how to connect the new system to the built-in hands-free mic. I like it because it's a cleaner look than an add-on plus it's in the ideal location and has some buil-in noice rejection. Comercially available adapters like the Connects2 interface do not include microphone connections, either, so if you're aiming to do the same here's a tutorial!

First of all, there's three wires for the microphone in the biggest of the white stereo connectors, the 32 pin connector that also has the camera and steering wheel connections. In my Latin American spec truck those are:

Purple: +5V for powering the microphone
Light green (looks turquoise to me): Microphone signal
Black: Ground

Here's the diagram available to us. The positions don't match exsctly but the colors are actually correct.



Here's a picture showing those three wires.



You will need a 5V power source and a 3.5mm mono plug. You can tap into those wires like you would do speaker wires with a T-tap or a skotchlok-type tap, or add extra pins to your wire harness like I did.

For power I used one of the USB ports on the bsck of my aftermarket head unit. The following poorly-drawn schematic shows the connections. Basically the red +5V wire from the USB cable went to the purple wire on the harness, the white signal wire from the 3.5mm plug went to the light green (turquoise?) cable and the black wire from both the USB and 3.5mm went to the black cable in the harness.

 
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#3 ·
As an aside, anyone wanting a discreet USB power source, but not wanting a bulky cigarette lighter plug-in one, might look for something similar to one of these:

[ame]https://www.amazon.co.uk/TOOGOO-Converter-Regulator-Waterproof-Transformer-black/dp/B07DJ1QB1C/ref=sr_1_41?keywords=12v+usb+buck&qid=1556796864&s=gateway&sr=8-41[/ame]

I have several similar ones tucked away on my caravan and they have worked very well, powering several things I don't want left lying around...
 
#5 ·
mrw27: Indeed - I have used several "buck" modules over time - apart from USB, e.g. 12V regulator bucks (stopping 12V things being killed by 14.6V+), 12V temperature controlled switches (to power fridge extractor fans for stable fridge cooling etc - only caravan folk know this is a big one).

All are cheap and effective, shipped from China.
 
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#6 ·
For sure, Free Man, I hear you.

The spiky current/voltage is an LED killer too. Amongst many other electronic projects, I do a lot of lighting, utilising COB and Cree chips, a few days of spiky voltage and those little puppies cook themselves.

These little Chinese boards are just fantastic, unbeatable.

Indeed, I like your solution of controlling the possibility of an overheating fridge/freezer, in a motor home/caravan etc, it's a big issue. If a fridge/freezer can't condense it's gas, it ain't doing any cooling. (here's someone who has never even owned a caravan, and I know this! That probably highlights just how sad I may be; concerning myself with electronic/physics/chemistry issues which don't even concern me!).

Nice one.
 
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