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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all, Oli from Pontefract West Yorkshire. I have an 06 Adventura D40 2.5 diesel, and love it. Pretty good condition for its age and once I removed the sedimentary almost fossilized diesel layer that coated the interior it looks good inside and out. Except that engine...

Over the past year I've owned it this forums been great to lurk on, as there are certainly a lot of issues with those engines.

I'm currently in a bind what to do with mine, limp mode kicked in on Friday and it is stuck in it. I'd had to drop it off at the garage next to Costco in Leeds, having just tried to leave there with a load of shopping. They've looked at it today and not come back with what I expected.

I'll preface it with the woes I've been having recently. It began to shake a bit and then cut out whilst cold and idling a few months ago. This got to the point a few weeks ago where to get going required gunning the engine. I then finally got an engine warning light and codes - p1274 I think it was for camshaft position sensor and I can't remember the other but related to fuel pressure.

I replaced the camshaft sensor, which stopped the stalling but didn't improve the engine running - it would shake like crazy until you gunned it - as soon as you rev it would settle down. I also replaced the crankshaft sensor a couple days before it got stuck in limp mode.

So it could be that the cam/crank sensors are also faulty or I've mucked them up somehow, there's an air leak in the fuel system, or the timing chain. It's worth mentioning the primer bulb goes soft and it would also go into limp if you accelerated too hard but always came back ok after restarting it. Cleaning the maf had no effect. Also there is a lot of chattering from the engine after turning off. I can't exactly remember when it started, but it has gotten worse over time - to the point where in the past couple of weeks it would give little bursts of it hours after switching the engine off. Sounds almost exactly like a magpie, is that the drive chain still trying to spool up? I was told it had the duplex chain by previous owner, but no receipt of course.

The garage called me back today after chasing them, and said they weren't sure about the codes being brought back - they said they spoke to snap on in the end as using one of their tools and apparently it's a fault with the injector or sensor and ECU.

This seems a bit strange to me? They've recommended I take it to nissan and get them to read it, as all they can do is replace the injector, for £500, but they couldn't guarantee that would fix it and or take it out of limp.

Other than £500 seeming like a lot for replacing an injector it does it actually sound like an injector is the cause of all my problems. And/or an additional problem(s)? I'd thought that I may have had both a pressure leak in fuel and a stretched timing chain.

I don't know if taking it to nissan will end up being more than the value of the truck, I fear I have a difficult decision to make?
 

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Living in leeds I know the garage you refer to! However I've never had any dealings with them so can't comment on there reliability.
The symptoms you describe as limp mode if accelerate hard does sound like a scv suction control valve or pressure release valve on the fuel rail.
However as for the chattering when switched off, I have no idea!
Of course a duplex chain is great providing its 1 quality parts.
And 2 fitted correctly !
I live about 3 miles from the garage in question so if I can be of help feel free to pm me
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The limp on hard acceleration is quite probably that, another thing on the list of faults...I get the feeling sadly it will be uneconomical to repair! Is it likely the other issues will be all solved by replacing an injector??
 

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I believe a faulty injector would give similar symptoms as a faulty spark plug in a petrol. so quite possible.
however If it has got a confirmed faulty injector it certainly won't be helping matters either way.
 

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The limp on hard acceleration is quite probably that, another thing on the list of faults...I get the feeling sadly it will be uneconomical to repair! Is it likely the other issues will be all solved by replacing an injector??
Be careful about getting a local garage to look at any modern turbo diesel.

Generalising here, but it seems they will regularly randomly replace parts until your money or patience runs out.

A good example behind the injector, it might be the problem, but they can be ultrasonically cleaned out replaced with recon parts for much less than £500..

If you can't do the jobs yourself, suggest you go to someone with expertise...

Sorry that sounds a bit harsh, but we have had people spend thousands when all the truck needed was a new fuel filter.

As for the chatter, is it coming from behind the dash? Common for the heater flaps to shut down after the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yes they were the type of garage that usually deals with cars to be fair, there was one on the next block along I'd already tried, that dealt with more specialist stuff and were quite knowledgeable. They were booked up for a week though.

I've ended up arranging for it to be towed back tomorrow, have asked for the diagnostic report. If it's just an injector I should be able to do that. Have done them on a V6 petrol xtype, would it be much more difficult on a diesel? I'd likely replace the fuel filter at the same time - any other parts to try/check whilst in there?

The chattering sounds as loud inside it as outside, so I'd say it's more from the engine. I'll have to try getting out and getting the bonnet up in time, it usually goes after a few seconds though.
 

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If you read through this it is a useful resource.


Injectors are fairly straightforward to change, the only issue can be that they can be stuck into the head.

I am wondering if the problem could be the EGR valve. The valve can get stuck and cause poor idle. Maybe the chattering noise is the EGR valve closing after the engine is turning off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If you read through this it is a useful resource.


Injectors are fairly straightforward to change, the only issue can be that they can be stuck into the head.

I am wondering if the problem could be the EGR valve. The valve can get stuck and cause poor idle. Maybe the chattering noise is the EGR valve closing after the engine is turning off.
Would it attempt to close multiple times? As the sound repeats a few times over the course of a few seconds, getting somewhat lazier each time.
 

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There's a place in garforth Leeds that refurb diesel injectors!
I've never used them but I have heard 1 or 2 good reports from them.
Did it come up with the eml warning light? Did they try a reset ? And if so how long did it stay off?

Thinking on I recall my 2007 d40 a few times even though shut down (for quite a while) I've heard it randomly make a small motor running type of noise for a few seconds! I thought it might have been an intank/ inline electric fuel pump topping up the fuel pressure? But could never find out for sure whether they even had one!
Assuming they have! and yours is faulty that could quite well explain why it struggles at low rpm untill the fuel line has been pressurised
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Have been trying to work on this, but seem to have stumbled at the first hurdle - replaced the fuel filter and it now just turns over. I’d not changed a diesel filter before but didn’t really expect to have a problem with it. I topped up the new filter, sucked the air out, primed it and have turned it ovr plenty so not sure what I’m doing wrong – what’s the best way to bleed the air? Don’t mind a little taste of diesel, but that’s not worked so far. Come to think of it I only sucked from the tank, should I also be sucking from the engine? I’m not being daft and missing anything (hopefully) obvious? The only things I can think is I’d fitted the priming bulb the wrong way around initially but I guess that would have just sent some air to the tank. There were two spare o rings in the filter box, the new t-piece was already fitted with rings, I’m presuming those are the only ones? When priming it I still needed a few squeezes to get the bulb solid again the next day.

Other than that I did remove the bulb and all hoses to the filter. The hoses have perished at the ends, but not beyond 5mm or the clips. The bulb itself also had 4 lines by the connection, tank end, that look almost more like score marks than being perished. I thought those might be the cause of air getting in but running compressed air through the bulb there don’t seem to be any leaks. I’ve got one of those generic diesel priming bulbs – can I replace with that? At least then I can then rule that out.

Have ordered a new SCV to try, should arrive today. Seems a relatively easy job other than the access to it, moving the dipstick aside etc but any tips?

In the spares bag that came with it, presumably replaced by last owner was a fuel filter clip and a crankshaft sensor (Denso, replaced one was a Delphi).

If I were to replace an injector, would I then need to take it to Nissan (or an authorised service type place?) to get the replacement injector coded before it will work?

Codes from the Garage’s diagnostic report, P1274/5 and P0336 are the only ones I’ve had from a generic Bluetooth odb dongle. Garage used Snap on.

P1612 NATS malfunction (immobiliser?)

P1274/5 Fuel pump

P0336 crankshaft position sensor

P0581 – steering switch circuit (presumably why my steering wheel controls doesn’t work)

P1622 – injector adjustment value unregistered

It was out of limp mode when I moved it onto the drive, just the cold /rough start problems. I did notice the chattering was very brief after shutting the engine down. Could P1612 be why I can’t start now? Am using the original key. Battery has been out charging for a few hours with no change to starting after putting back in.

Have Thursday and Friday off work to crack on with it, hope I can solve the starting issue at the very least.
 

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Ok so a bit of a challenging list!

If you put a piece of clear pipe on the filter on the pipe to the fuel pump you will be able to see if they are any bubbles in the fuel. If there are, then you have an air leak somewhere.

1612 means the injector hasn't been calibrated. Shouldn't be an issue, it's only a small adjustment and will run fine without the calibration. It does mean that someone has previously replaced an injector I think.

You can DIY test injectors to a degree by taking them out and taping them into 4 Coke bottles. There's YouTube videos on this. Plenty of places can test injectors and sell you new or recon ones, Nissan is too expensive.

Hopefully the fuel pump issue will be solved with the new SCV. Easiest way to change it is to take off the right front wheel and remove the inner arch. You can do it from above though. Watch out that you do not pinch the rubber ring.
After the scv change, reset the fuel pump using the pedal method.

The immobiliser one is a bit concerning, this is the RF chip in the key communicating with the ECU via the recover around the ignition switch. Have you got another key? Does the key symbol on the dash go out?
 

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Did the garage do any actual work on it?
I'm wondering if they disconnected something and not put it back on because that's quite a list of faults to all come at the same time!
If the immobiliser is faulting that would absolutely explain why it endlessly cranks but doesn't explain why it was rough before!

Are all the electrical connections around the battery good? Including the earth straps!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Spent this afternoon working on it...not much joy to be honest. Still not able to get it to start, although on the 4th or 5th turn sometimes it does sound as if it's about to start very briefly so at least it's not the immobilizer issue. Only code I'm getting at the moment is p1622.

Battery runs down pretty quickly, probably after only a minute of cranking attempts. Did try starting with battery charger attached too. The battery I'm assuming needs replacing too, + terminal had had some energy drink can cut up and wrapped around the terminal. Binned that, but can't imagine that's the problem? There doesn't seem to be any corrosion etc. Sure I read somewhere after a filter change they cranked for several minutes and finally got it going, will put charger on tomorrow and try.

Replaced the scv from above, bloody fiddly taking that passenger side bolt out. An elastic band round the bolts held them in well while I located it. Had a spare new scv in the spares bag that came with it which was a bonus. Although theres obviously been a lot of issues previously. Wether that's solved anything unfortunately cannot tell at the moment!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ok so a bit of a challenging list!

If you put a piece of clear pipe on the filter on the pipe to the fuel pump you will be able to see if they are any bubbles in the fuel. If there are, then you have an air leak somewhere.

1612 means the injector hasn't been calibrated. Shouldn't be an issue, it's only a small adjustment and will run fine without the calibration. It does mean that someone has previously replaced an injector I think.

You can DIY test injectors to a degree by taking them out and taping them into 4 Coke bottles. There's YouTube videos on this. Plenty of places can test injectors and sell you new or recon ones, Nissan is too expensive.

Hopefully the fuel pump issue will be solved with the new SCV. Easiest way to change it is to take off the right front wheel and remove the inner arch. You can do it from above though. Watch out that you do not pinch the rubber ring.
After the scv change, reset the fuel pump using the pedal method.

The immobiliser one is a bit concerning, this is the RF chip in the key communicating with the ECU via the recover around the ignition switch. Have you got another key? Does the key symbol on the dash go out?
I put some clear pipes on today - from filter outlet into a jug I could not see any bubbles whilst using the primer to push fuel through. I didn't have any 10mm clear hose to hand or in b&q etc so could not get a secure connection between the filter and pump - have got some in the post due soon. Will PVC pipe itself withstand the pressure if I clamp it on?

I also put some over the engine-filter-tank return line - no bubbles came through after priming. However if you give it a couple of minutes a couple inches of the line gets occupied by air. Bulb also goes completely soft around this time.

I also bled the injectors, priming by hand. After trying to start I got the closest I've got so far, seems a split second away from starting. Bulb goes completely soft after each attempt.

Seems like air is getting in between the pump and return line somewhere. I noticed a couple of short fuel hoses on the engine around the scv that had clips missing or damaged clips. Any other suggestions to look at?
 

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It doesn't sound conclusive.

The fuel pressure before the fuel pump isn't very much so you can pvc hose to try it.

I don't think the return hose is a problem area, the feed hoses are ones that matter.

See if you can get the clear hose in line and get someone to check for bubbles when you crank the starter.
 
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