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Discussion Starter #1
OK so Need to do a timing chain on a JNI 08 D22 YD25DDTi engine, what a complete stuff up that is, you can't do the primary chain without removing the sump and to remove the sump you need to split the engine and transmission to get at the two 6mm bolts inside the bell housing, to split the engine and transmission you need to drop the rear tail shaft and crossmember as well as the gearbox mount cross member also you need to remove starter motor and front drive, better to remove alternator and aircond compressor and mounting bracket.
It seems ridiculous if they are going to put two bolts in the bell housing that they wouldn't be accessible, there is a drain hole there but not big enough to access anything, there might be at least one hole there shortly to get a flexible magnetic 1/4" drive up there but even that is difficult because with the ring plate for the crankshaft position sensor there is very little room.
Anybody drilled holes in the bell housing before?
Fortunately I hadn't put the front drives back in yet so all fairly accessible under there.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
OK so Need to do a timing chain on a JNI 08 D22 YD25DDTi engine, what a complete stuff up that is, you can't do the primary chain without removing the sump and to remove the sump you need to split the engine and transmission to get at the two 6mm bolts inside the bell housing, to split the engine and transmission you need to drop the rear tail shaft and crossmember as well as the gearbox mount cross member also you need to remove starter motor and front drive, better to remove alternator and aircond compressor and mounting bracket.
It seems ridiculous if they are going to put two bolts in the bell housing that they wouldn't be accessible, there is a drain hole there but not big enough to access anything, there might be at least one hole there shortly to get a flexible magnetic 1/4" drive up there but even that is difficult because with the ring plate for the crankshaft position sensor there is very little room.
Anybody drilled holes in the bell housing before?
Fortunately I hadn't put the front drives back in yet so all fairly accessible under there.
Be even easier if you could do the timing chains without removing the sump, why???
 

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Do you have to remove the sump? Not done it myself, but I can't remember the write ups or YouTube videos having to drop the sump.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
You can't get the bottom timing cover off without removing the sump, the oil pump fouls not allowing it to move forward, I at first thought I could by twisting it but after much mucking around tried it on another motor I had pulled the sump off on an engine stand, there is no way you can move it forward or up without dropping the sump, you could drop the front but it would still need to be taken right off to seal it again,
Yeah seen video's of the operation but the/our d22 sump must be different?
The manual says to drop the upper and lower oil pans but doesn't mention anything about the two bolts inside the bell housing other than to say don't drop them (15 and 16 in sequence) into the transaxle area???? no mention of splitting motor and gearbox and what that entails.
Actual timing chains are reasonably straight forward except for those two bolts and even having to remove the sump makes it a nightmare job for no reason from a practical point.
Might contact someone who does them to see what they say.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
:mad::oops:Yeah well found out how to get cover off without removing sump you have to remove the oil pump drive through the crankshaft oilseal which I didn't think it would fit through so all easy now but to get oil pan off you still need to do a lot of extra work due to those two 6mm bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
G'day
Be good if my chain setup looked like that but unfortunately it doesn't mine is a D22 and the oil pump drive sits on the crankshaft and the oil pump body hangs into the sump yours is a D40? but why did you remove the motor.
I tested getting the cover and oil pump off without removing the sump on a motor already stripped and you can just find a sweet spot to remove it after removing the drive off the crankshaft but if the chain is still on the sprocket it won't come off it's only a bees **** in it but it means going back to plan A and removing the sump etc.
Which appears to mean an extra 10 hours labour, making access holes in the bell housing are looking more tempting to get them two 6mm bolts out/in.
Found this on google so guess it's ok to put it here https://www.yd25.com.au/images/site_images/pdfs/timingchaintod22d40r51.pdf
Even this doesn't mention having to remove exhaust or bracket off gearbox or dropping down rear of gearbox to access top bell housing bolts, 19hr's for someone doing it regularly mind you it's getting easier as I realise to allow a complete strip down for even what should be minor jobs.
Bob
 

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If I had to do the job again I would definitely take the engine out. The main reason I took the engine out was because I also had loads of other parts to change

Luckily my boss let me borrow the van bay for a weekend, started Friday afternoon and drove home Monday morning 2am ish.

the top bell housing bolts can be done with several long 1/2 extension and some wobble sockets, I strapped gbox to the bottem of truck and left it there.

you have to either remove the sump or at least drop it abit otherwise you are going to slice the oil pump seals when fitting it and have zero oil pressure. I nearly done this with the engine out.

Good Luck to you, by the sounds of it you are going to be taking the engine out.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Will probably just split the engine transmission to get access to the two 6mm bolts, not sure about getting enough access to the top bell housing bolts but the link I put up doesn't say you have to drop the rear drive train although the manual does, will check tomorrow to see how hard it is although couldn't see how to do it when I changed this motor over although taking the original motor out was easy as the previous bloke had left them out as well as the back pointing one near the starter motor.
Not sure what the seal on the oil pump is on this motor, it is a 2008 Jap (JNI) the other motor here is a 2014 MNT and has a rubber gasket not an O ring but it was sealed even if you could get the front cover back on sealing it or the pump seal would IMHO be a bit hit and miss due to smearing the gasket as it would be tight and difficult, much more easy to just lift the sump up onto the whole deal.
If I can get those top bolts out no problems, once the exhaust is disconnected from the transmission pretty sure I can prise the motor forward on the front mounts as they are fairly soft but if not can undo the rear mounts AGAIN.
The timing chain isn't that bad although it looks to be original and there was a rattle on startup which wasn't there before repairing the head.
Whatever think I will get this other motor going as a spare anyway.
 
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