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2008 Nissan Navara Aventura / BMW 650i / Saab 93 TTid
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Great job mate! I bet thats one of the most solid Navs in the world now!
Thanks Rich. I really hope so, because she's got to last me.


Seems I addressed the chassis at the right time because looking at one of the photos of the near-side, it looks like there is a small hole visible...


The guys at Rust Buster said that there were no obvious signs of perforation or cracking though so I can't be sure.
 

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going to be making a start on mine now the mud in the farmyard is dust and theres no rain forecast for a few days.

after a damn good power wash and degrease, Ive opted for zinc phosphate chassis paint, to start. Ive gone for the half litre rattle cans so I can do it piecemeal, without having to drag the airline out, mix paint, clean the gun each time etc. undecided between black waxoyl or dinitrol yet, Ive always used waxoyl, but Ive always thinned the first coat so it will penetrate.
 

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Got some paint on the chassis and rear axle, found the transfer box vent pipe had briken so made a repair. Found behind the filler neck sheild and up in the wheelarch spats solid with muck so out with the screwdriver and power washer.
 

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I don't think brushing or rolling would get it into all the hard-to-reach places.

I'd advise buying one of these:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNDERBODY-COATING-GUN-UNDERSEAL-WAXOYL-WAX-OIL-STONECHIP-SCHUTZ-SPRAY-GUN-/230974566850

My brother did the underside of his girlfriend's Defender with waxoyl using one of those. He said it took him about half an hour, and he was being very thorough. Obviously, the hard part was wire-brushing the whole underside first. You'd have to rent a compressor if you don't have one, but I think it would be worth it, considering how easy it makes the job.

EDIT:
I'm not recommending that particular one on eBay. My brother bought one made by a well known air tools company, I just can't think of the name right now.


If you plan to go off the track Rust Proof it, I just done mine with Tyctal 506 Spray Cans ( $18 each x3), best time to do it is straight off from the showroom floor if you can, this stuff is thick and dry to the touch in a few days. Its easy to apply with the long range shoot nozzle, I used a thin rubber hose connected between the can and nozzle to get right into the rails.
Sadly in doing this on my brand new NP300 Navara Series 2 ST you crawl and look around where most don't and discovered paint chips and rust right through the chassis welds, so I gave it a good dose. Used it on the Xtrail when it was new, been on the beach a few times and all is good underneath 2.5 years later probably time for a top up.
 

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Thanks Rich. I really hope so, because she's got to last me.


Seems I addressed the chassis at the right time because looking at one of the photos of the near-side, it looks like there is a small hole visible...


The guys at Rust Buster said that there were no obvious signs of perforation or cracking though so I can't be sure.
If it was a rust hole you were talking about then it would already be too far gone to repair so I expect it's just one of the many holes Nissan put in for their own secret reasons.
 

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Only recently joined this group so catching up a bit. I have a 2013 Tekna with low mileage but even this is already showing signs of rust underneath.
I want to do the job myself and have a vehicle inspection pit in my garage. Can anyone advise me how to inject Dinitrol etc into the chassis; I don't have a compressor but want to ensure I get decent coverage. Are there numerous holes along the chassis I need to inject stuff into and what sort of quantity should I be using. Thanks for any advice.
 

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I bought a Dinitrol kit off ebay that said it was for a large car, about 4 cans of cavity wax and perhaps 5 cans of chassis wax plus an application gun. They do aerosol versions if you haven't got a compressor, mind you they are pretty cheap nowadays and so think about getting one (one of the best tools for valeting the inside of the car by blowing out diut/fluff etc.)

There are loads of holes in the chassis.
 

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Agree with Jace, Biggi & Woz about mine, no they are not all the same but Nissans bodywork/chassis protectant isn't all its cracked up to be. Its not gonna happen twice to me so i'm thinking about moving back to East Yorkshire & further away from the coast & giving up farm work.
Who else on here would up sticks & move for the sake of their truck :mrgreen:
Anyways, bought this the other day on the hooky, icky, sticky, gooey stuff, worst than Marmite :lol:
Hi, Done my D22 chassis several years ago still looks in good nic took 3 full days used a angle grinder with flap disc and a carbide extended grinding bit to get into the awkward bits when all the rust was removed I applied 2 coats of Fertan and 1 coat of anti rust red oxide primer down the full chassis then sprayed it over with black waxoyl underseal used 4 spray cans the only bad rust issue was the rear tub support brackets in front of the rear wheels were starting to rust through I welded plates onto both brackets difficult job due to poor access you’ve got to wear all the protective gear otherwise you will end up in A&E it’s worth the effort if your keeping truck long term. Cheers
 
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