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Replacing a D40 Front wheel hub

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sheepy

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Thought I'd take a few pics and share a few problems while I am replacing drivers side hub (70k miles, passenger side done @65k)
I am not a mechanic and have just 'learned' as I go! Please feel free to add or correct anything you feel is needed.

First of all I removed the centre cap from the wheel and slackened the hub nut (32mm deep socket) I did it this way as the last time I done it I had the wheel and brakes off before I tried and found it tricky to stop the hub turning....MUCH easier this way!

Image


Next I slackened the wheel nuts, jacked and propped up the vehicle and removed the brake caliper

Image


Remove the 4 bolts (17mm socket) that hold the hub onto the carrier. These are a bit awkward to get at, you can move the steering from side to side to get the best angle for each bolt. I used the universal joint from the socket set and that worked ok. Also remove the split pin and the previously slackened hub nut.

Image


continued on next post
 
Discussion starter · #2 ·
Next was the trickiest bit both times I have done this.....getting the plastic plug on the ABS sensor cable apart! I ended up cutting the end that is getting replaced anyway but took this pic to show how the plug should come apart with the release tab

Image


The hub is ready to come off now. Both mine were fairly tight/rusted on. A few 'taps' with a hammer frees them off! They are not tight at all on the drive shaft, its just where they are up against the carrier. As you can see from this pic there is a bit of rust about so I gave it a good scrape and wire brush.

Image


Now all I need to do is wait for the new one to be delivered this afternoon (hopefully!) and refit.
While waiting I always find it a good idea to have one of these!

Image


Once the new hubs have been fitted and everything reassembled, when you start the engine if you get the ABS light and ESP light if fitted to your model
don't worry once you drive forward a couple of feet these will cancel/turn off.
It's due to a magnetic pick up that needs the hub to spin a couple of times to clear
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Eventually the courier turned up, got the new one fitted without any problems, just a reverse of the above, remembering to tighten up the hub nut after the wheel was back on and back down on the ground. Think I read somewhere the torque settings for it but I just tightened it up till I look like this :shock: and maybe a wee bit of warm air expulsion :oops:

Took it for a drive and the ABS light went ut of its own accord, no resetting required :thumbleft:

Old bearing was totally knackered, would definitely advise anyone who has one side go to do both at the same time. Got loads of warning with my first one when it was the way out, 10 miles from noticing anything this time to it being un driveable.
 
#4 ·
hi ya mate great how to this will come in handy this week as ive got to do my passenger side bearing later this week just wondering if you ever found out the torque setting for the hub nut? as im a bit of a pessimist and dont want to leave anytrhing to chance lol any help would be much appreciated thanks
Simon
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
The bandit said:
hi ya mate great how to this will come in handy this week as ive got to do my passenger side bearing later this week just wondering if you ever found out the torque setting for the hub nut? as im a bit of a pessimist and dont want to leave anytrhing to chance lol any help would be much appreciated thanks
Simon
Click to expand...
Hi, glad this may help you a bit, it's pretty easy really. I see greasedonkey has answered the torque setting question on your other post, I still had just used the :shock: tightness method!
 
#6 ·
Torque settings are always handy, but if indoubt and its a major component like a hub nut, just do it FT :D
 
#7 ·
thanks for your reply guys i didnt have a chance to check my msgs yetserday but i have seen greasedonkey's reply now and that is a very high torque setting i think ill probaby go with the :shock: tightness method and maybe if i can get hold of a torque wrench that goes that high tigten it up to spec another day thanks again for your replies though :D
 
#8 ·
Very useful thread this, thanks, - especially as I'll be needing to do my fronts within the next week...

Just one Q tho - do you have to knock out the split pin before attempting to undo the 32mm hub nut? I may be being a bit thick on this, but surely it'll hinder access to the nut?

Please correct me if I've got it wrong..?

Steve
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
GT-Steve said:
Very useful thread this, thanks, - especially as I'll be needing to do my fronts within the next week...

Just one Q tho - do you have to knock out the split pin before attempting to undo the 32mm hub nut? I may be being a bit thick on this, but surely it'll hinder access to the nut?

Please correct me if I've got it wrong..?

Steve
Click to expand...
My socket managed to fit over the split pin as it was bent nice and neat. :thumbright:
 
#13 ·
changing front wheel hub

Have just used the how to guide out of the libarary for changing the wheel.hub
was absolutly great a real help for a novice such as myself


there just a little note that could do with adding to the end of the guide

it is that once everything is reassembled when you start the engine if you get the abs light and esp light if fitted to your model
dont worry once you drive forward a couple of feet these will cancel/turn off
its due to a magnetic pick up that needs the hub to spin a couple.of times to clear

i got a little concerned and was rechecking the conections before i realised

that bit of info would be helpful if could.be added pls mr mods

again great work on the guide
 
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Discussion starter · #14 ·
Re: changing front wheel hub

I thought I mentioned that? Nope I didn't, thanks for pointing it out and adding it in, as that is exactly as mine did after the change!
 
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sheepy
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