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sbrown

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
OK, not written any how to's before but I'm going to be using this as more of a diary of my installation in the hopes that it will help others that my be interested in doing the same.

For a start, my vehicle is a 2006 D40 Outlaw double cab with the 6 disc multi-changer, others may vary so it's worth checking your connections before going out and buying the bits!

My reasons for changing this are I really want iPod control at a good quality (not FM transmitters) and I want to get bluetooth handsfree support which my model of Outlaw does not come with.

I will be replacing the radio with an Alpine IVA-W202R double DIN unit and as such these instructions relate to this.

Removing the radio / CD player

In order to remove the current headunit you will need to pop out the top cubby hole, simply push the front of it away from you and pull upwards, there are only 2 clips front and back holding this in but you may need to be firm with it to get it moving.

This will reveal a central screw immidiately behindat the back in a horizontal position, remove this using a philips screwdriver.

At this point its worth noting that catching the screws without them dropping down is very important as getting to them if they do drop is really difficult and will mean removing most of the rest of the dash.

The upper central part of the dash now needs to be removed, it is held by 2 clips at the bottom of it where it joins to the lower part of the dash, coax these out by working it out from the top, again you do need to be quite firm with it.

You should now have access to the headunit. This is help in by 4 screws in the corners, remove these and you will now have the unit free. Pull out the three multi pin connectors (there's a clip on each one) and the aerial plug and you will now have the unit completely separate.


TBC...

I'll keep adding as I get further on with the install
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Removing...

Centre screw found under the top cubby hole can be seen in the top centre of this image
Image


Top part of dash removed, the three looms going down in this image run to the climate controls and hazard light controls, these are simple to disconnect and well worth it to keep them out of the way, there is NO NEED to force these they are clipped in and can be removed easily, at this stage you will also reveal the 4 screws that hold the cage for the cd player in place.
Image


CD Player removed with the 3 looms from the back of it undone - 1 of these is for the steering wheel controls and the other 2 are for the stereo. Dangling around somewhere here although you can't see it on the photo is the DIN plug for the aerial connection
Image


That's it all removed now other than taking the mounting brackets off the side of the old radio which unfortunately I didn't take any photos of but it's just a case of removing 4 T25 (I think) screws from each side.

...Now onto the interesting part!
:?
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
List of bits to be used... (I'll add to this as I get stuff)

Alpine IVA-W202R multimedia headunit
Alpine KCE-300BT Bluetooth adapter
Alpine KCE-422i Full Speed cable
PC2-76-4 Autoleads wiring harness
PC5-55 Autoleads ISO to standard aerial overmould

Single core small guage cable
Spade connectors (male and female)
hooped crimp connectors

Tools
Pozidrive screwdriver (PZ2)
medium sized flat head screwdriver
cable cutters
cable strippers
crimpers
bike tyre lever (I'll explain later)
multimeter
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Before I start on this next bit I'd like to say I STRONGLY recommend testing everything before fitting and I won't take any responsibility if your car breaks as a result of anytihng I may have said, thought or thought about thinking ever or in the future or anything like that!

Right then, the main headunit wiring - this comes in 2 parts, the Nissan to ISO adapter from Autoleads then the ISO to Alpine adapter that came with the headunit.

Connecting these up isn't good enough to get this working though, Nissan in their wisdom have not included any wiring to ground within there loom so we need to get this from elsewhere. The Nav has a negative ground system - sorry if you feel this is something about teaching eggs and sucking but I'm trying to make this as comprehensive as possible.

In order to get this ground I have taken the black wire from the Nissan to ISO adapter and wired this to a ground point on the cars bulkhead.

Although quite a poor photo you can just about make out the yellow boot of the 'O' ring style crimp which is connected on the black wire. This is then on a screw which connects a piece of dash onto the bulkhead, this can go pretty much wherever you want as long as it provides a secure and reliable connection to the metalwork of the car.
Image


At this point its worth checking your power supplies, both the Acc switched supply and the constant Batt supply with a multimeter to ensure you are getting 12V(ish) between these and your nice new ground connection. It's then worth plugging in the headunit and making sure that it powers up ok and all the speakers all work.

At this point you're not far off having a working system, there is a but though and this is where it can start getting complicated.

Alpine's DVD system has a safety device to prevent the driver watching the screen or playing with the settings whilst driving, in order to do this the hand brake must be on for these functions to work, as I am not prepared to delve into the Nav's main wiring harness to get the correct wire for that I have bypassed this. I don't condone that you do this but I feel I am responsible enough not to play a DVD whilst driving, I may put a switch in line with this at some point to make it possible to activate or deactivate this function but for now it's a case of just bypassing it. In order to do this you need to link the handbrake wire (blue and yellow) to ground. Time for another bit of crimping. I have chopped the bullet connector this off and put a female spade connector on instead, the male end of this is on a short (about 6 inches) extention made from small guage single core wire. This in turn connects to another ring type connector to be bolted onto another ground point.

If that's not enough I'm also installing the Alpine bluetooth adapter at the same time, this also needs power feeding to it. So, before you crimp that ring connector for the handbrake ground add in the black ground extention cable that came with the 300BT bluetooth unit.

To power this unit you need to supply it with Ground (black), Battery (yellow), Acc (red) and the mute wire (pink)

Black, as I say goes to ground, Red should connect to the spare bullet connector on the Alpine harness and the pink straight onto the Alpine harness as well (just match the colours). The yellow is a little harder but can be done as long you don't mind a little bit of soldering. As part of the Alpine harness there's a fuse box built onto the yellow battery wire, if you pop this open you can add the yellow wire for the bluetooth kit to the output terminal (the one that goes to the headunit) on the circuit board, it's a lot easier than it sounds as the terminals are huge and it makes a lot neater job than any other way. You can see the outcome on the bottom left of the pic below

What you'll end up with is a nice mess of cables, don't worry it will all kind of make sense and the tangle of spaghetti isn't as bas as it looks at first and when it's all sorted out it fits in the dash nicely.
Image
[/img]
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Handsfree fitting

In addition to the power required for the handsfree unit it also requires a microphone input and a control cable from the headunit.

The control cable is self explanitary and should be installed as per the manual, in essence it's just a simple link between the headunit and the bluetooth box.

The microphone I have installed just above the drivers side 'A' pillar (photo coming soon).

The cable is the nrouted down the pillar between the windscreens and the plastic trim then between the trim panels to next to the door, it is then routed under the steering wheel cable tied to other looms underneath to make sure it doesn't foul anything underneath then through a gap in the trim into where the headunit will sit.

The bluetooth box itself and all the wires leading to it are positioned using velcro mounting, I have put it in the gap under where the headunit goes straight behind where the 4 wheel drive selector and the central lock button is, it's a bit tight to get it in there but once in it sits nicely and securely and well out of the way. Unfortunately I can't get a photo of it down there but once you're into the dash I think you'll see where I mean.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Getting it all back together

As a final step (for now) all that remains to be done is to place everything back in place.

It's worth spending a bit of time at this point tidying cables, tape them cable tie them and generally try to route them into place, any exposed junctions I have also taped with electrical tape to make sure there's no chance of shorting to anything.

The metal mounts you removed from the original radio now nead attaching to the new one, ignore the cage that came with the headunit, you don't need this. Instead screw the orginal mounts onto the side of the headunit, I've used 2 screws on each side in a diagonal position, this appears to be the only place where the holes match up but that's OK as they work perfectly!

Screw these back into the mounts on the dash after everything is connected at the back and you should end up with something like this...
Image


The headunit came with 2 options for trim plates, one deep one and one shallow, I've used the shallow one as I can fit it in without any trimming and it really finishes off the unit brilliantly.

Then, it's just a case of replacing the dash (not forgetting to reconnect the climate control looms) and popping it all back together.

Hopefully you should end up with something that looks a bit like this
Image


In my opinion it looks pretty OEM and works brilliantly, it certainly does everything I wanted it to - or it will do when I finally finish it!

At this point from my point of view I know that I'll need to take it apart again as I'm still waiting on the iPod connection cable to arrive and I also need to get an aerial adapter (DIN-ISO) as well as sorting out the steering wheel controls. I'll continue adding those as I do them but hopefully this should provide you the information to avoid some of the set backs I had whilst doing this.

Any comments or question are welcome and I'll try to answer what I can.
 
Alpine's DVD system has a safety device to prevent the driver watching the screen or playing with the settings whilst driving, in order to do this the hand brake must be on for these functions to work, as I am not prepared to delve into the Nav's main wiring harness to get the correct wire for that I have bypassed this
Very intersting mate, and well written. :wink:
RE. the above point, would I be right in thinking it is the handbrake LIGHT that needs to be on, rather then the actual handbrake, so could you take a feed off the light in the back of the dash rather then down by the handbrake?
Might be easier?
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Not sure really, all it needs is a -ve feed going to the handbrake sensor on the headunit when the handbrake is applied. I figure it could be done from the brake light but I'm unsure whether this will be +ve or -ve switching. Another easyish option would be to place a microswitch under the handbrake lever that will disconnect upon the handbrake being down. With the amount of stuff connected to the ECU on the Nav I decided to take the easy route and not risk trying to interface with the rest of the car. I know it could be classed as irresponsible but as I said I feel I can make the decision myself without the headunit forcing me to do something.
 
i connected the wire on my pioneer screen to a factory earth. apparently this is a common way of tricking it into thinking its connected to the handbrake sensor.
 
Re the handbrake thingy.........

If you go to the hidden service menu of the aventura ( i know yours is an outlaw) there is a screen there that shows handbrake on/off and it toggling if you change the state so I am assuming this signal is already passed up through the loom. Of course, may well be different on the loom for the Outlaw but maybe worth a punt.

Steve
 
Fantastic How to SBrown :)
 
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