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Tipper

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hi all, I am new on this site and hope someone will have an idea what is wrong with my D22.

The engine starts easily and idles fine for about twenty seconds then the engine light comes on and it is in limp mode. When the engine light is on the engine sounds very harsh and has no power.

I did have an issue with the truck starting so it has already had a crank sensor, fuel filter, new injectors and fuel pump.

I have run the truck with diesel from a can using clear hose and there are no bubbles so i assume the pump is getting enough fuel.

The codes i am getting are 0401 and 0707. i think this is EGR insufficient flow and NPS sensor. The NPS is working although the engine can be made to drop power if the gear lever is pushed sideways hard when in third or fourth.

The EGR tubes and manifolds are clear and the electric valve on top of the EGR seems to be operating ok.

It does have a broken glow plug but this has always been broken and never been a problem before. Truck still starts easily even in the very cold weather.

Any ideas would be appreciated as it has been off the road for two months now and causing me hassle with work as i use it to tow my mini digger.

Tipper
 
The NPS is working although the engine can be made to drop power if the gear lever is pushed sideways hard when in third or fourth.

:scratch: :scratch: wrong way round pushing lever hard left will increase power if Nps is at fault :study:
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Hi,

When i say the NPS is working, what i mean is that if you push the heat button the revs increase to about 1500 rpm. If any of the gears are engaged the revs drop back to normal tick over of about 750 rpm. However, when the engine is ticking over with the heat button still turned on it will stumble a bit if the gear lever is pushed sideways in third or fourth.

Tipper
 
Tipper, if those codes are correct then 0401 is Intake Temperature Sensor and 0707 is Injection Timing.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Woz,

I looked those codes up on the internet, guess i must have looked at the wrong thing somehow.
Is it possible then that when i fitted the new fuel pump i have it maybe one link out on the chain. Would it still start so easily if the chain is one link out of perfect timing. And, is the air temp sensor the one in the pipe just before the air filter?

Tipper
 
, is the air temp sensor the one in the pipe just before the air filter?

yes thats the one
 
Tipper, I've never had one 'out of time' but I'd imagine it would still start and run.
The problem will be that being an mechanical pump it will pump the fuel regardless but the air to fuel ratio will be incorrect so combustion will be affected with loss of power, especially when the turbo kicks in.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Ok, Thanks woz,

I will have to check the timing again. The top timing cover is easy but If i remember correctly i need to drop the sump before i can remove the lower timing cover so i can check the mark on the crank and chain are lined up.
Is there a way that i can test the air temp sensor before buying a new one?

Tipper
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Is it likely that the chain has stretched then?. The truck has only done 90k miles with Nissan history. Engine mods done at 78k when it started to rattle. Conrod broke in my hand as i dismantled the engine (phew, that was close) My BMW has a chain and has done almost 300k and still going strong.
I guess if the chain is stretched it will be impossible to make all the timing marks line up correctly.
 
bembo449 said:
are you saying his timing chain has stretched then ?
No, on a duplex chain at 90k they should be ok.
However, pre 2002 YD engines had an issue with the hydraulic tensioners failing which Nissan knew about and had a 'campaign' on them to replace them.

Tipper said:
Is it likely that the chain has stretched then?. The truck has only done 90k miles with Nissan history. Engine mods done at 78k when it started to rattle. Conrod broke in my hand as i dismantled the engine (phew, that was close) My BMW has a chain and has done almost 300k and still going strong.
I guess if the chain is stretched it will be impossible to make all the timing marks line up correctly.
When you replaced the pump did you follow the procedure in the W/S manual section EC-3419 :?:
Replacement only involves the top secondary chain so the lower primary chain should be unaffected AFAIK.
BTW you can download the W/S manual from this site for a small donation so you can re-check your work and timing marks.
Levering over the tensioners to remove any slack should bring the timing marks into alignment.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
Thanks for your replies,

No, i didn't follow the w/s manual so i will check that out. I am only now concerned that it is the lower chain that is wrong because i fitted the pump at the same time as having the engine out to sort a crank oil seal leak so have only just put the engine back in. I am pretty sure i got it right as i didn't have any problems when i rebuilt the engine at 78k with it's new ARP bolts, Duraglides etc, etc. and it is fairly easy with the engine out.
I will have to investigate again this weekend.
What about the air temp sensor, is that main dealer only?

Tipper
 
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