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Changing the battery

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#21 ·
claymore said:
pdfisher said:
rich likes things to be spot on and and goes the extra mile to make sure you will see from his post he is a perfectionist and his work reflects this
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Also like me he has a huge draw if he switches everything on. I have the biggest CCA Bosch battery available and never switch everything on without either driving or running with the fast tickover button pressed
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Boys and their toys ey?
 
#22 ·
buy a battery optimiser like an optimate and leave it plug in overnight and for a long as possible as it wil de sulphate batteries and recover near dead batteries to full power. been using them on my motorbikes and green lane jeep wrangler which all spend a lot of time without use and all the batteries still run well.
 
#23 ·
Bagofsand said:
buy a battery optimiser like an optimate and leave it plug in overnight and for a long as possible as it wil de sulphate batteries and recover near dead batteries to full power. been using them on my motorbikes and green lane jeep wrangler which all spend a lot of time without use and all the batteries still run well.
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That's ok if you have a garage or one that would fit a Nav mate..... :whistle:
 
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#26 ·
landmannnn said:
I would change the battery, it is never great to be stuck with a flat battery and for the sake of £60 it is worth the peace of mind, especially with winter approaching.

btw you don't need the radio code.
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sense at last +1
 
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#28 ·
Some people really love to throw money away on this forum! As an engineer if i took the attitude of replacing everything that showed a sign of needing attention, i would have a very bankrupt company and be out of a job very quickly. It is unfortunately the attitude of most moden vehicle technicians, hence why they dont get the job tital mechanic anymore, as they just replace parts.

At the very least get your battery tested. If it fails then replace it, if not, give it a charge, spend that money on giving your truck a service for winter or something equally worthwhile. Im sorry but 3 years is a very short life span for a modern battery. Most companies will guarantee a battery for 3 years, and they leave plenty of margin between the average fail time and the end of their warrenty period!

Im not saying your battery is or isnt dodgy, i cant tell without being there to test it, but replacing without testing is a very poor mind set to have. One that could land you with either a £70 bill for a new battery you dont need, or a £70 bill for a bettery plus the extra bill ontop to find out the actual fault in your high power circuit that you diddnt identify when confirming the fault because you took some bad advice on a forum and replaced the wrong part. For what a battery test will cost you (usual free, and make sure your battery is actually charged beforehand) its a no brainer. If it tells you to buy a new battery, happy days. If it tells you your batteries fine, maybe you need to start looking elsewhere.

Out of interest, do you have a multimeter to read your battery voltage?

Rich
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
Have a multimeter and was going to check my voltage with the engine running, just preparing for the worst. Been waiting until I'm not in the house in my own so I can get someone to rev the engine a little
 
#30 ·
You won't need to rev the engine, on tick over I'm sure you'll get at least 14.4Volt ( thats what I get)
One tip, charge your battery off the truck.
Check (if your charger has a Ammeter) that the battery has stopped taking a charge, so charging over night, if it still draws current after an overnight charge, the battery is goosed.

Also when you believe your battery fully charged, have your friend in attendance, measure the voltage of your battery when your cranking the engine, if it drops dramatically <9.5 Volts....your battery is goosed.
 
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#31 ·
Totally agree what rich us saying make the tests first, don't spend money until your 100% sure the battery is ******...

Not 100 sure if the vehicle will still crank if the signal to the Nats is blocked, if it can then then you can to a load test (with your multi meter) on the vehicle to see if the voltage drops as described below 9 volt. To do this wrap some tin foil around the plastic part of your key blocking the signal to the pick up coil in the vehicle, if the vehicle cranks and doesn't start you can do a load test this way or use a drop tester..
 
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#33 ·
Act quickly,repent at your leisure !!!!!!!!!! Rich is right buddy. It would have taken 5 minutes to test it and as Rich states I bet your Varta has a 4 or 5 year warranty. As did your first battery. You should take it (Charged) To Kwik fit or similar and they will test it under load the only true test for a battery. If it's Shot it's shot fair enough. But if it's not well ???????
 
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#35 ·
Rich. said:
The alternator is 140a. However you have put a huge drain on the battery to start it, then by the time you pull power away from the alternator to power all the other electrical items (potentially talking 45a or so for the two heated seats and rear window alone, plus blower for heater, radio, another 20a in headlights), you dont have a lot left to charge the battery. Say 40 or 50a of that alternators capacity left, to fully charge a navara battery you're looking at 2 hours on those specs, and thats 2 hours with the engine about 2000rpm, as you need 13.8v before the battery will take a charge, which most alternators will not put out at tickover. Granted the battery wont be flat, but its going to be close to the limit of what 15 minutes of intermittent charging can do.

I drive 11 miles to work and back every day, about once a month i tend to charge my batteries (i have two) up as the battery monitor gets a bit unhappy at how low they are getting.
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Well done Rich, no-one spotted your deliberate mistake, to say " as you need 13.8v before the battery will take a charge," is ludicrous, :faint as any battery will accept a charge upto its capacity providing the potential difference (voltage) from a DC source is greater than the voltage within the battery. eg If you have a 12v Battery low at 10 volts, and you applied 10.5 Volts to the battery, the battery will charge to as near 10.5 volts as possible. nice bit o DC theory after sunday lunch
You definitely caught "that them" boys out with that one :clap
 
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#36 ·
diydave said:
Rich. said:
The alternator is 140a. However you have put a huge drain on the battery to start it, then by the time you pull power away from the alternator to power all the other electrical items (potentially talking 45a or so for the two heated seats and rear window alone, plus blower for heater, radio, another 20a in headlights), you dont have a lot left to charge the battery. Say 40 or 50a of that alternators capacity left, to fully charge a navara battery you're looking at 2 hours on those specs, and thats 2 hours with the engine about 2000rpm, as you need 13.8v before the battery will take a charge, which most alternators will not put out at tickover. Granted the battery wont be flat, but its going to be close to the limit of what 15 minutes of intermittent charging can do.

I drive 11 miles to work and back every day, about once a month i tend to charge my batteries (i have two) up as the battery monitor gets a bit unhappy at how low they are getting.
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Well done Rich, no-one spotted your deliberate mistake, to say " as you need 13.8v before the battery will take a charge," is ludicrous, :faint as any battery will accept a charge upto its capacity providing the potential difference (voltage) from a DC source is greater than the voltage within the battery. eg If you have a 12v Battery low at 10 volts, and you applied 10.5 Volts to the battery, the battery will charge to as near 10.5 volts as possible. nice bit o DC theory after sunday lunch
You definitely caught "that them" boys out with that one :clap
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Fair point, i didn't elaborate properly as was trying to give basic pointers.
However you are totally incorrect. I suggest you do some reading on battery chemistry before passing comment again. The minim charge voltage of a lead acid cell is 2.15v per cell. A 12v battery has 6 cells, so the actual theoretical minimum voltage that it would charge at is 12.9v, anything below this voltage will have no effect on the cells. However, applying 12.9v to a battery will give you a VERY slow charge rate. 13.8v is the internationally recognised correct constant voltage charge rate for a lead acid battery as it is the optimum voltage between charge speed and excess gas production from the cells.

I suggest you do some proper googling before trying to educate an electrical engineer on DC therom ;)

Rich
 
#37 ·
Very good Rich, Yes it would be slower charge but a charge non the less, I qualified as an Electrical Engineer when you were about 1-2 years old,......... still at it. Fair enough Instrumentation and control nowadays.
As you seem to say yourself your anal about these things.
Yes some of your theory rings true, what you have read about, bit I deal with facts that I am able to prove, or from personal experience.
something you can build up with time.
These forums and subjects are "googled," so it would only be fair to highlight miss- information.
 
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#38 ·
It would be a slower charge at 12.9V. Below 12.9V it would not charge at all.

If you can prove that you can charge a 12v lead acid battery, even at sub 10v, with a 10v supply i would be very interested to see that, as would most other chemists and electrical engineers. This is very basic battery chemisty, as a qualified electrical engineer im incredibly surprised you're disputing it.

Rich
 
#39 ·
I think I'll just leave it Rich..... lifes too short my friend
I wonder what Des is doing with his battery issue, because I'm really interested.
 
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#40 ·
Well, I 've just actually googled it, And Rich your right mate, spot on! I've totally got it wrong, sorry.
I was sure I've trickled a charged in a 12V Battery at around 12.5 Volts, but the science just doesn't add up.
Anyway apologies to you, and locked in the stocks for me. :bowdown1
 
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pdfisher
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