lack of power when cold

dide · Mar 1, 2014

I have just bought a Navara with 95k on a 59 plate however I have noticed that when cold the car struggles to rev up and pull away, it feels like it wants to stall and if you are doing big steering changes the steering wheel goes heavy. It fires up first time and never stalls and you can pull away but it is very week until it finally builds up revs. The engine revs freely until it is under load. Any advice would be really appreciated.

Cheers
Dave

pdfisher · Mar 1, 2014

when was the last full service

lookskyward1 · Mar 1, 2014

Did you buy it from a garage or privately?

dide · Mar 1, 2014

It was bought from a garage and given a service when I got it but the garage said that they don't give warranties??? Which I don't think is totally true as you still have rights I'm just hoping that it is something simple

pdfisher · Mar 1, 2014

bet they didn't clean the MAF

lookskyward1 · Mar 1, 2014

You still have the rights under the Sale of Goods Act. The truck has to be in a roadworthy condition, if it is likely to stall at junctions it is hardly safe.

The good news it is it should be a reasonably straightforward fix.

Follow, this to keep costs down;

New fuel filter (assuming the garage omitted it in their service which is highly likely)

New air filter as above.

Clean the MAF
viewtopic.php?f=47&t=12607

Reset the ECU, reading any fault codes
viewtopic.php?f=47&t=5786

If you still have the symptoms a new SCV/QCV will be required ( costs about £120, make sure you get the right one for your truck)

Good luck

dide · Mar 1, 2014

Thanks how do you go about cleaning it? Is it straight forward to do?

lookskyward1 · Mar 1, 2014

The blue lettering beside my comments are links to the how-to's

dide · Mar 1, 2014

Thanks sorry I posted that before I read your post. The fuel filter was changed not sure about air filter. I did a ECU reset but lost track of the flashing light. I will check out your link and may give it ago tomorrow.

Cheers

dide · Mar 1, 2014

Just read article thanks, off to halfords tomorrow to see if I can get some electrical cleaner, what are the other items you mentioned for £120 I have never heard of them before?
Cheers

pdfisher · Mar 1, 2014

do the basics before you get this far scv is the last port of call

lookskyward1 · Mar 1, 2014

It's a sensor that fits on the back of the fuel pump and can cause similar symptoms without causing a fault code.

A mechanic would call it a Suction Control Valve but Nissan, bless their cotton socks call it a Quality Control Valve.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nissan-Navara ... 3a8696dd41

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nissan-Navara ... 3cd7eeb493

As I said, this is the last thing to change if you have no joy with the simple stuff.

lookskyward1 · Mar 1, 2014

pdfisher said:
do the basics before you get this far scv is the last port of call

Oi, get back to the sweeping. OK you're on your weekend off, it's your round :cheers2:

dide · Mar 1, 2014

Thanks guys you have put my mind at rest I know that it is not solve yet but I feel much better for the advice that you have given, I was fearing the worst but hopefully it will be what you have said

lookskyward1 · Mar 1, 2014

Just remembered, you would be best advised to put a blanking plate in your EGR valve.

dide · Mar 1, 2014

Why what will that achieve? and how easy is it?

lookskyward1 · Mar 1, 2014

The EGR is Exhaust Gas Recirculation. It is there to comply with emissions regulations and involves sending a small amount of exhaust gas back through the intake side of the engine to be burned again.

Great for the environment :dunno but not good for your engine or your pocket. The EGR valve itself is expensive and can choke up and break. The gunge that is transferred back into your engine causes the oil to be contaminated earlier with carbon which in turn causes extra wear.

A lot of us here fit a small plate in the EGR feed pipe to stop the flow actually reaching the valve itself. Some report better throttle response and less exhaust smoke, but the big benefit is the engine is not being gunged up. The blanking plate is almost undetectable and no problem for passing an MOT.

Well worth doing

It is really just a case of taking two bolts off a pipe, and fitting a blanking plate in the space where the gasket fits.

Ignore my wattling on about removing the pipe in the following link, the place to blank is at the drivers side of the engine where the pipe feeds into the valve, The pictures in this post will help.

viewtopic.php?f=15&t=12136&hilit=egr+euro+4

The blank can be home made or bought from Ebay

dide · Mar 1, 2014

Looks a little complicated for my spannering skills, will hopefully sort out other issues then maybe give it ago

dide · Mar 2, 2014

Done maf thing no difference :-( bizarre how the problem disappears when warm it also is not as bad if I use the cold start button? Any more ideas ?

Cheers

lookskyward1 · Mar 2, 2014

dide said:
Done maf thing no difference :-( bizarre how the problem disappears when warm it also is not as bad if I use the cold start button? Any more ideas ?

Cheers

Review what has been said already. :slaphead

dide · Mar 2, 2014

Yes I have checked everything, originally I did an ECU reset I have now cleaned the MAF sensor,I have checked it has had a new oil filter, air filter and fuel filter, and I have also now ran a diagnostics check and know faults showing. So I suppose the next port of call is the SCV is that a DIY job or garage job, bearing in mind I am not the best with mechanics.... Just one other question should you use the cold start button when you first fire it up then switch it off once yo are on the move as this seems to cure it or certainly make it better, but it seems strange to me as no other car I have ever drove has had one, is it like a choke is that the problem or am I just clutching at straws???

lookskyward1 · Mar 2, 2014

The switch is just a way of achieving a higher idle speed. It's handy for warming the engine up and clearing the screen in the mornings or when using jump leads. You shouldn't need it in normal circumstances.

Have a look at the following thread regarding the SCV

viewtopic.php?f=40&t=39882&hilit=scv

dide · Mar 2, 2014

Thanks I have checked out the thread and it looks like this could be the problem, I will look at getting a new SCV on Monday so fingers crossed this will sort it out. I will let you know the out come once I get it fitted, but it definitely sounds as it could be this it does feel like it is staved of fuel and want to stall.

Regards
Dave

dide · Mar 30, 2014

Well the pick up went into a diesel specialist a few weeks ago they said that the turbo boast solenoid was faulty and that's all the faults they could find, guess what they swapped it over and it has not made any difference. I have read else where that the Navara is flat in 1st gear and you need to give it a bit throttle to pull away on a hill...........could this be my problem or is that just wishful thinking??? if I hold it on the hand brake give it a bit revs then it pulls away fine I am used to drive a van with loads of torque low down that just hold on the clutch on the steepest of hills with no revs..........I have also noticed a siren noise when its cold as you come off the throttle from 2k down to 1.5k is this a dreaded turbo failure as mentioned in this forum, I asked the garage to have a listen but the engine was warm by then so it was not as loud but they said it was fine as were all the tests they ran except the turbo boast solenoid :-(

lookskyward1 · Mar 30, 2014

Have you changed the SCV? as said previously it does not necessarily show up as faulty, Have you blanked the EGR valve yet?

dide · Mar 30, 2014

No I told the garage about the SCV and what everyone on the forum had said but they said they did a fuel pressure test and everything was ok, and they could replace it but they did not think that was the problem. I have not blanked of the EGR yet but I will order the part this week if I get a chance.

lack of power when cold

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