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dide

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I have just bought a Navara with 95k on a 59 plate however I have noticed that when cold the car struggles to rev up and pull away, it feels like it wants to stall and if you are doing big steering changes the steering wheel goes heavy. It fires up first time and never stalls and you can pull away but it is very week until it finally builds up revs. The engine revs freely until it is under load. Any advice would be really appreciated.

Cheers
Dave
 
when was the last full service
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
It was bought from a garage and given a service when I got it but the garage said that they don't give warranties??? Which I don't think is totally true as you still have rights I'm just hoping that it is something simple :)
 
bet they didn't clean the MAF
 
You still have the rights under the Sale of Goods Act. The truck has to be in a roadworthy condition, if it is likely to stall at junctions it is hardly safe.

The good news it is it should be a reasonably straightforward fix.

Follow, this to keep costs down;

New fuel filter (assuming the garage omitted it in their service which is highly likely)

New air filter as above.

Clean the MAF
viewtopic.php?f=47&t=12607

Reset the ECU, reading any fault codes
viewtopic.php?f=47&t=5786

If you still have the symptoms a new SCV/QCV will be required ( costs about ÂŁ120, make sure you get the right one for your truck)

Good luck
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Thanks sorry I posted that before I read your post. The fuel filter was changed not sure about air filter. I did a ECU reset but lost track of the flashing light. I will check out your link and may give it ago tomorrow.

Cheers
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Just read article thanks, off to halfords tomorrow to see if I can get some electrical cleaner, what are the other items you mentioned for ÂŁ120 I have never heard of them before?
Cheers
 
do the basics before you get this far scv is the last port of call
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
Thanks guys you have put my mind at rest I know that it is not solve yet but I feel much better for the advice that you have given, I was fearing the worst but hopefully it will be what you have said :)
 
The EGR is Exhaust Gas Recirculation. It is there to comply with emissions regulations and involves sending a small amount of exhaust gas back through the intake side of the engine to be burned again.

Great for the environment :dunno but not good for your engine or your pocket. The EGR valve itself is expensive and can choke up and break. The gunge that is transferred back into your engine causes the oil to be contaminated earlier with carbon which in turn causes extra wear.

A lot of us here fit a small plate in the EGR feed pipe to stop the flow actually reaching the valve itself. Some report better throttle response and less exhaust smoke, but the big benefit is the engine is not being gunged up. The blanking plate is almost undetectable and no problem for passing an MOT.

Well worth doing

It is really just a case of taking two bolts off a pipe, and fitting a blanking plate in the space where the gasket fits.

Ignore my wattling on about removing the pipe in the following link, the place to blank is at the drivers side of the engine where the pipe feeds into the valve, The pictures in this post will help.

viewtopic.php?f=15&t=12136&hilit=egr+euro+4

The blank can be home made or bought from Ebay
 
dide said:
Done maf thing no difference :-( bizarre how the problem disappears when warm it also is not as bad if I use the cold start button? Any more ideas ?

Cheers
Review what has been said already. :slaphead
 
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