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Rattle explained. Now advice needed...

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MBoosh

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hi all,
As per previous post, I jacked my wife's Navara up to investigate intermittent rattle (only at low speed, regardless of revs). It was fairly obvious: propshaft to front wheels has some play on the rear UJ (transfer box side). at least I think that's what it's called. Here's a pic to make sure:

I am fairly confident it's a straightforward 'on the driveway' job. My questions however are: Can I just change the UJ or is it integral to shaft? Where can I get one? Second hand ok? Is it expensive? Do I also need to replace nuts and bolts, or can I reuse what's there? In the meantime, shall I take it off rather than leave it on?
Thanks for your advice and tips,
Boosh.
 
#2 ·
Hi mate you can just replace the UJ's and reuse the bolts you just need to take the clip out and press the uj one bit at a time till they out the end in a vice but be careful of the prop it is aluminium and go to milner off road Derbyshire the will send via courier. Hope that helps mate.
 
#3 ·
The bolts on the front prop can be a bugger to get off, heat was needed to get mine off. Just make sure you get the correct UJ, the front prop joints are smaller than the ones for the rear prop, you wouldn't be the first to get the wrong ones!
 
#4 ·
It was an absolute pain to get the bolts off, some really strong sealant used.

You will need a big vice, a decent set of internal circlip pliers, a variety of spanners and a blow torch to heat op the bolts.

A new uj including circlips plus a set of bolts will be about £25.

Somebody posted recently he got a local prop specialist to do it for £68, I have the tools but would still go down that route, especially looking at the rust on the joint.(experience speaking)
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the replies, but I'm now a bit confused. I've just come back from the stealers who ask for £770 (inc vat, like it makes it better!) for front propshaft, as they reckon only FRONT UJ is separate from shaft. According to their technical drawing (which I've seen) rear UJ is integral to shaft. No way can I afford that! I had a look on eBay, and used D40 propshafts seem to have been stripped ON BOTH SIDES, which would confirm that it is indeed possible to replace rear UJ while retaining front propshaft. Could any of you that did the job confirm that it is possible? Truck is an early (55 reg) D40 with 1015k on the clock.
As for tight nuts and bolts, I'm armed with patience, brute force and ignorance. And the determination to not pay £800 for a £20 part, even if it takes me days!
I keep my fingers crossed,
Thanks again for your help,
Boosh.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Thanks so much for your help, now I know what I'll be doing on my next days off!!
And they wonder why nobody likes the dealers...
Boosh.

PS: just ordered the one UJ, as I assume that removal of propshaft only require to unbolt UJ flange, not to undo UJ itself. Right?
And here's the stealer's drawing:
 
#11 ·
They are defiantly do able just like any Cardan shaft the bearings are a standard part and easily obtainable from a 4x4 place or any power transmission/bearing specialist
If you are doing one I would do both chances are that they both need it just use two spanners for the bolts they are fine thread and should come undone ok
take your time with the UJs if you have never done them before the Nissan ones are a tight fit unlike allot of tractor PTO shafts where the cups practically drop out.
If the joints are bad I would take the shaft off ASAP and run with out it for abit
 
#12 ·
I have just had exactly the same issue as per this post...

viewtopic.php?f=43&t=72841

The one side of the rear UJ pin connecting to the Rear diff has snapped, I have tried the Milner link above but it doesnt work, can anyone help with which one I should get, Nissan Stealer has quoted me that I need whole new prop the lot as comes as a kit for £1700 :cry :faint
 
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#13 ·
Just phoned Milner and ordered 2 UJ bolts for the rear prop, delivered for £24.

Nissan can go :censored: themselves!!!!

Is it just a case of undoing the 4 bolts holding the prop on at each end, taking prop off, replace UJ's (as will do both ends as advised) and re attach, do I have to mark it to realign or anything like that? New flanges etc?
 
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#14 ·
Basically yes, its a good idea to mark the flanges up so they go back in the same place but not essential as all the components are balanced individually.
Make sure you mark the shaft components though so they all go back in the same way, I believe the shaft is balanced as one unit, also consider replacing the bolts and using locktite on them
 
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