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is it my NATS key?

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bornpompey

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
morning chaps, went out to the D22 this morning with my lad to go to work, put key in ignition, dash lights up engine turns over......but does not start

I dont have a spare key to try it, but wondered if its possible for the NATS to fail? cant think of why else a truck running perfectly, was parked up last night and now wont start?
 
#2 ·
Check your battery connections are clean. Pay special attention to the earth points on the inner wing and engine. Open them up and clean to bare metal before reassembling.

Check the multiplug that fits onto the back of the fuel pump has not come adrift. It may help to remove it and put it back on.

Good luck :thumbright:
 
#4 ·
The main earth would allow the engine to turn over but the ECU/pump may not be getting enough current.

The earth point(s) on the bodywork/inner wing can corrode and cause similar symptoms.

Inspecting and cleaning off all the earths and battery connections has to be worth a try, especially as it will not cost you more than an hour in your time. :dunno
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
ok.....so a mate of mine got his lad out who works in a local garage, he came over with a fault code reader, after getting the fault code reader to communicate it read different to what he expected......we decided that maybe the fault code reader was not compatible although it did list D22 in the list......eventually after 30 mins of trying to find a list of stored codes, we found the correct section to find the message " NO CODES FOND"

Dont laugh, but he turned the key and the bloody thing fired up! bad news is we dont know what we did to cure it.......am wondering if when i fiddled with the remote buttons on the key fob I have disturbed something, its never worked on the remote side since I have owned it........so i guess maybe the key is on its way out?

Tried several times to do the key reset thingy to no avail.
 
#7 ·
plug in fault code readers for the d22 can be a nightmare with lots of wrong codes being thrown up its very hard to read and you do need the correct software for it to work
the best code readers and fault finding machines i know are called Woz & Chris vince :lol: :lol: :lol:
 
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#8 ·
remember to select pick up and then d22 in the list. and not go straight to navara.
ive made that mistake before.

just a thought. when you turn the ignition on, does the glow plug light go out????
 
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Discussion starter · #9 ·
bummer......its gone again!

Truck on my drive fully loaded ready to go off for a track day with my kart, come out to go early doors and just turning over again, been fine since saturday. I seem to remember dropping my keys into the draw a bit heavy........wondering if something in the key is broke to stop it reading the nats?
Everything else seems to be working, heater light does go out after a few seconds as usual.

Tied taking key apart, cant see anything wrong except i know the micro switches dont work, never have. can get car into programming mode but key wont respond to programming. Got a new key on order from local stealer :jawdrop

any one?
 
#10 ·
What's the little red light (NATS) doing when off and when trying to start?

Ian
 
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Discussion starter · #11 ·
Ian, went to take a looksie, at rest, locked up, the red light flashes about every 3 seconds or so...... went to turn ignition to see what light did on cranking and the bloody thing started again :twisted:

So, would I be right in thinking that if the light still flashes when trying to start the truck that the NATS is faulty in the key?

BP
 
#12 ·
If you turn key to on position without starting the light should stop flashing, indicating that NATS is working proper.
If it continues to flash, then you have a NATS problem.
 
#13 ·
fatha said:
If you turn key to on position without starting the light should stop flashing, indicating that NATS is working proper.
If it continues to flash, then you have a NATS problem.
Click to expand...
:thumbleft: sorry I didn't reply but not been on here for a couple of days but Fatha got it sorted for you

Ian
 
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Discussion starter · #14 ·
I got a new key from my local stealer.......been a nightmare, sort of. ordered new key blade and fob, with programming a little under 215.00 with vat ..........got called in to have it programmed, but was told the blade section was wrong and that my car must have had locks changed at sometime, even though i only have one key and it fits everything including fuel flap. Stealer programmed new fob and put it on my old blade to get me going.....since then I have had no starting issues.

Now, last year, I purchased a fob and blade (copy) off of ebay, managed to find a locksmith to cut the blade but it would not start the car, then I learned about and NATS system and put the key to one side as a spare that I can at least enter the vehicle to get it recovered should I loose my key.

My question is this, does the blade section have the imobiliser as well as the fob? my stealer reckons it does, but am wondering if thats just to stop me trying to programme my old fob to that blade so i have two keys..............
 
#15 ·
I'm not 100% sure but I think that it is just the fob that has the NATS chip in, I'm sure I've heard of people putting the fob inside the steering cover and just using an ordinary key to start it but I may have just heard that while I was asleep but if it does work that way you lose the security of the immobiliser.

Ian
 
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#16 ·
The chip for the immobiliser is very small, in the Ford Ranger it is attached to the part of the fob that is connected to the key, if you get a chip reprogrammed your old ones wont work unless they get programmed at the same time.
 
#17 ·
The chip for the immobilser is seperate to the remote fob, it is clipped inside the plastic of the blade section, and can be removed and put into a recut new blade.
 
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Discussion starter · #18 ·
thanks for clearing that up chris, I spent a wasted afternoon at the stealers after they called me in..... all chipper that they had ben sent a new blade by the factory, "yes" was the parts guys cry as he tried the blade in all the locks, "right lets get this thing coded up" he shouts.......2 hrs later and i am getting a bit twitchy so on my third visit up to the service counter to enquire whats going on i get told " just be patient sir".......... so out side i go, round the back of the building to find my truck sat there all open in a public car park.....no engineer in site. On entering the workshop, i get confronted by the so called engineer who tells me they cant code the key as they dont have the right software!

So no spare key still.

So, if the imobiliser part is in he key blade section, which I can now see, how comes my truck now works with just a new fob on my old blade?
 
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bornpompey
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