Nissan-Navara.net banner
1 - 19 of 19 Posts

mibazza

· Registered
Joined
·
151 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
I'm getting a sharp metallic knocking noise for about 5 seconds when the engine is started from cold, noticed it on holiday when the wife started it up and I was standing beside the passenger side front wheel, sounds like it's coming from low down. Engine also sounds like theres a slight low level knocking noise sometimes, very deep sounding noise not sharp. Did the engine mod to my D22 last month, new ARP bolts, billcar sump to oil pickup mod and new shells. Went on holiday in scotland in it last week and did about 600 miles and it drove solidly enough, and I've only had the truck for a couple of months, but I'm unsure if these noises were there before the mod or if I'm just listening more for noises since I did the mod, I must admit I've been driving a lot more with the stereo off so maybe they were there before but not sure.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Yeah the belts squeel a little when started but I've checked them and they all look in good nick, could get new ones tho. But why would they be causing a sharp metallic knocking noise?
 
mibazza said:
Yeah the belts squeel a little when started but I've checked them and they all look in good nick, could get new ones tho. But why would they be causing a sharp metallic knocking noise?
:D :D Hi it is where the belts whips that makes the noise I changed mine and it stopped :D :D
 
you could check to see if it is your upper tensioner, when mine was playing up it made what I would call a metallic clacking sound, I have posted a how to some where if you want to check it, I would post up the link but I dont know how to :dunno

Ian
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
Yeah it could be something like a tensioner I suppose, are you talking timing chain tensioner? Never looked at a timing chain or belt before, still learning lots about car mechanics as I go along. Re-tensioned all the drive belts when I did the bottom end mod and the EGR mod as I had all the belts slack for moving the PAS, air con and alternator, so I know none of them are slack, they're all in pretty good nick too, I change belts everyday offshore on industrial ventilation fans so I know what worn belts and pulleys look like. I think the sqeeling has stopped since I re-tensioned all the belts, I found the two connected to the alternator to be a bit loose. But it's definately a sharp klacking kinda noise, so if it's a tensioner do you know what would be wrong with the tensioner to make the noise? I have to say too that I've only heard it once or twice while we were on holiday, don't think I heard it everytime we started up. I am a bit worried that it's a starved oil pump, the light oil light is on when I fire up then goes off after a few seconds but thats pretty normal I think. I put ÂŁ20 for 5litre 5w-30 oil in it after the big end mod as I was a bit skint, I'm now wondering if I should buy better oil, my jeeps got magnatec in it and my Audi has expensive mobil oil in it and they both sound sweet when they get some new juice.
 
Hi, try pouring water on the belts to check for the belt noise. It should quiet down if they're on their way out.
Also trying cranking the car without heating the engine to see if its oil starvation.
Most engines quiet down when warm though.
 
If the metallic noise is not there every time then its probably not a tensioner as they work or they dont, its the top one on the timing chain I was on about, when I first got mine it started making a rattling noise when cold starting now and again, turned out it was a loose bolt on the intercooler, the point being that there are a lot of things under the bonnet that can make these noises and not all are fatal.
I would use a decent oil in it, have you changed it since you did the mod? I changed mine and filter after 500 miles and 1500 miles this wont be the cause of the noise but it will/ take care of the engine long term :thumbright:

Ian
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
I've not changed the oil since I did the mod, and I've done about 600 miles since then. Didn't change the filter as I couldn't get the damn cap off to get the filter out, the plastic nut on the cap has been rounded a bit by the previous owner and they've put it on with a LOT of torque, tried a strap wrench AND a socket on a bar at the same time and couldn't get it to budge, didn't want to apply too much force tho as I was at my father-in-laws doing the mod and I needed to get home in the truck and to go on holiday in the truck. So I'll put some more oomph into it when I get home on Monday and see if I can get it off and get the new filter in before putting in the decent oil. At least if I break the cap the truck is at home and I can just wait for a new one from the main stealer. Saw a metal cap somewhere possibly billcar but it was quite expensive so I'll wait and see how much a replacement plastic one is from the main stealer. Plastic will be ok as long as I put it on with the correct torque and not try to screw it all the way into the engine block as the previous owner seems to have done :evil:
 
Get the engine good and hot BEFORE you try to undo it, it is the 'O' ring that seals the cap, NOT how tight they are done up!
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Good tip I'll take it for a spin before I try and get it off on Monday when I get home.
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Well I got the engine good and hot after a long drive, tried to get the oil filter cap off using a strap wrench AND a socket and.....nothing.....still won't budge, the plastic nut on the top is now far too rounded to be of any use (it was already rounded when I bought the truck) and the strap wrench on it's own is not making it budge at all, it eventually slips off with loads of force on it. Next plan I think is a chain wrench and see if that will bite into the plastic and let me get more force to try and remove it. I don't know WTF they thought they were doing when they put it on but it certainly doesn't want to budge. Anyone got any other ideas?
 
Get a chisel or screwdriver and tap it with a hammer on the rounded nut to move the cover.
Maybe hold it at a 45 degree angle as you tap it off.
Should work in a pinch.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
Haven't got a new one yet, went to a dismantler today but they had no D22 engines, if I break it I'll get a new one from Nissan. Not sure there's room to get a hammer and chisel in there, but I'll look at that idea tommorow.
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
OK so took an oil filter chain wrench to the filter cap last night and.....it broke the chain! Still hasn't budged. Took so long to fix the chain it was dark and the engine was cold again by the time I was ready to re-attempt. Will have another go if it ever stops raining! Can't believe how much force it's needing to get the thing off, the cap shows 25N torque to tighten it and even shows the direction to tighten it, I reckon they must have put it on with 500N and threadlocker or something.
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
Quick question before I try and wrench this oil cap off again. I've bought Mobil ESP 5W/30 oil, is this the right stuff? Guy at the garage told me 5w/30 was right for a D22 when he looked it up on his PC but that doesn't really inspire me with full confidence.

I'm also wondering if flushing the engine would be a good idea since it looks like the oil filter hasn't been changed in a while due to a very tight cap and rounded nut. I've been reading up about it on here, and it seems to be that with the engine hot, add 1L diesel in the oil cap and run ONLY ON IDLE for ten minutes, then change the oil as normal. Will this help the smoky smell I get from the exhaust, there's no visible smoke but it stinks of being smoky. Is engine flush just as good? I can get the missus to pick some up on the way home save me going to the garage for diesel or syphoning it out the tank.
 
Mate, you have got a good fight going on there!
I can never work out why some people do things like this up with such brute force, it is the 'O' rings that seals it not how tight they get it?
Anyway, cannot help with the oil selection, but re: flushing, as it is the first time I would try to get hold of a can of 'Forte' engine flush, you may have to go to an independent garage to buy it, it is really a trade product and I doubt very much if it is available 'off the shelf' in motor stores.
This stuff is really good, on a dirty engine you can literally see the muck disolving as you pour it in!
From then on do the 'oil fashioned' way with the diesel, but run it at a fast idle the fast idle switch is perfect for this.
Years (40+) ago we used to flush with parafin!
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts