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What have you done to/with your truck today?

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#3,721 ·
Innowaybored said:
nexsuperne said:
Just finished putting a decent split charge 2nd battery setup on mine. It now charges at up to 100 amps, so will recover the battery to full charge in 30 minutes. It is as straight forward as the old school way of doing things, as I have just found out :) To get the batteries hooked together, I have a 100A resettable serious car audio type fuse right next to each battery. Next to the engine the battery, I have a 120A heavy duty relay. This is then connected to a caravan style voltage sensing relay, with pin 2's output connected to the one side of the coil on the heavy relay. If it was old school, then I could have connected the pink/grey wire from the alternator (what was D+) straight to the alternator BUT, that's not an option, as it just jams the battery no charge light on (poxy electronic ****), hence the voltage sensing relay. I guess I could have just got an NPN power transistor and dropped that across the heavy relay coil, and used the 12V from the pink wire to feed the transistor's base terminal and power it up that way, but I had the voltage sensing relay kicking about.

Anyways, the important bit is it works and I can now run my compressor and electric chainsaw without having to wait for the battery to charge.
Click to expand...
Would really like this set up before June. Wish I had some mechanical knowledge !
Click to expand...
all you need is this:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321630297012? ... EBIDX%3AIT
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/311016749602? ... EBIDX%3AIT
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121217391716? ... EBIDX%3AIT
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Voltage-Contr ... 51c604a598
The voltage control relay is the brain of the system. It can be set to switch on or off at whatever voltage, but so that it doesn't bring the heavy relay in before the engine is running, it makes sense to set the on voltage at 14.0V (as the alternator puts out 14.2V), and the off voltage at 13.8V. This guarantees that the 2nd battery will only charge when the alternator is running.
 
#3,722 ·
nexsuperne said:
all you need is this:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321630297012? ... EBIDX%3AIT
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/311016749602? ... EBIDX%3AIT
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121217391716? ... EBIDX%3AIT
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Voltage-Contr ... 51c604a598
The voltage control relay is the brain of the system. It can be set to switch on or off at whatever voltage, but so that it doesn't bring the heavy relay in before the engine is running, it makes sense to set the on voltage at 14.0V (as the alternator puts out 14.2V), and the off voltage at 13.8V. This guarantees that the 2nd battery will only charge when the alternator is running.
Click to expand...

Really appreciate that. I'm going to have a chat with my mechanic on Thursday about it as frankly it looks terrifying to someone who only learnt where the oil went a few years back. Will let you know how I get on
 
#3,723 ·
An auto electrician might be a better solution for the split charger wiring. Some Mechanics barely know the difference between a spanner and a screwdriver, hopefully yours is one of the better ones.
Anyway, you will need to add an earth strap and a suitable battery to that list. 10 metres of cable will get it from the back of the load bed, all the way along the chassis rail and back across the bulkhead to the engine battery, with a metre to spare. The earth strap needs to be bolted from the battery negative to the chassis to get a good earth, as the bed is effectively insulated from the chassis by the 4 mounting bolts.
 
#3,724 ·
Did the dreaded micro filter job today. Removal was a piece of cake but refitting 17mm fuel union bolt was epic. Needed to remove the adjuster bracket for the power steering pump to allow my hands to get down to it as it just didn't want to bite into the thread. Sorted it eventually and happy to report the truck is now much less the slouch. That filter really is ridiculously tiny!
 
#3,725 ·
Gave mine a wash. Couldn't be bothered to polish though :-/
 
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#3,727 ·
full service, 150,000 Kms at my good friends rewowned garage, 334 euros overall, including chain tensioner (upper) egr and manifold full clean (i blanked my egr some time ago but didnt clear it as i should) new belts, full greasing where necessary and ofc full fluid changing and filters(including brake fluid and coolant), feels like new truck!!
 
#3,728 ·
nexsuperne said:
An auto electrician might be a better solution for the split charger wiring. Some Mechanics barely know the difference between a spanner and a screwdriver, hopefully yours is one of the better ones.
Anyway, you will need to add an earth strap and a suitable battery to that list. 10 metres of cable will get it from the back of the load bed, all the way along the chassis rail and back across the bulkhead to the engine battery, with a metre to spare. The earth strap needs to be bolted from the battery negative to the chassis to get a good earth, as the bed is effectively insulated from the chassis by the 4 mounting bolts.
Click to expand...
Hi, I think this is awesome and a great idea, as I wanted to do this to run a compressor in the back for re-inflating my tyres. Could you put some photos on of how you wired it up and where your mounted your voltage read out etc for us?
:awesomework
 
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#3,729 ·
Stelianos said:
full service, 150,000 Kms at my good friends rewowned garage, 334 euros overall, including chain tensioner (upper) egr and manifold full clean (i blanked my egr some time ago but didnt clear it as i should) new belts, full greasing where necessary and ofc full fluid changing and filters(including brake fluid and coolant), feels like new truck!!
Click to expand...
If you have blanked it off why should it also need cleaning?
If needed, what do you clean it with?
 
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#3,730 ·
Markyt1984 said:
Stelianos said:
full service, 150,000 Kms at my good friends rewowned garage, 334 euros overall, including chain tensioner (upper) egr and manifold full clean (i blanked my egr some time ago but didnt clear it as i should) new belts, full greasing where necessary and ofc full fluid changing and filters(including brake fluid and coolant), feels like new truck!!
Click to expand...
If you have blanked it off why should it also need cleaning?
If needed, what do you clean it with?
Click to expand...
hey marty, i also cleaned the manifold and piping because if you blank it the soot is still there in the intake taking "space" and blocking some air capacity, and since i am a completionist i said why not its a 10 mins job to remove on a d22 at least on a d40 its a bit more hard but 20 mins will be more than enough.
i removed the intake and let it soak with carburator cleaner and it all went back to shiny metal :thumbleft: now with the egr blanked its gonna stay that way :partycheer:
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=89137 not mine but nice pictures to show how bad the intake is inside and how much better after cleaning
 
#3,731 ·
Markyt1984 said:
Hi, I think this is awesome and a great idea, as I wanted to do this to run a compressor in the back for re-inflating my tyres. Could you put some photos on of how you wired it up and where your mounted your voltage read out etc for us?
:awesomework
Click to expand...
Reminds me that I need to sort a build thread out for mine :)
 
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#3,733 ·
neilh said:
Markyt1984 said:
Hi, I think this is awesome and a great idea, as I wanted to do this to run a compressor in the back for re-inflating my tyres. Could you put some photos on of how you wired it up and where your mounted your voltage read out etc for us?
:awesomework
Click to expand...
Reminds me that I need to sort a build thread out for mine :)
Click to expand...
Yes please Neil :)
 
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#3,734 ·
adequatelyaverage said:
Major service... And then treated her to injector cleaner and a tank of Shell Power+ nitro

Running as smooth as a baby's proverbial and they've even sorted my rattle and dodgey heated seat!
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What did they do to your dodgey heated seat? What was wring with it and is it fixed now?
 
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#3,735 ·
Driver's side felt as though it wasn't even on... They said they had infra-red gunned it and it was fine and heating up as normal. So essentially they've done nothing that they've told me about, but it definitely works again.

My leaking headlight washer on the other hand... Still leaking!
 
#3,736 ·
adequatelyaverage said:
Driver's side felt as though it wasn't even on... They said they had infra-red gunned it and it was fine and heating up as normal. So essentially they've done nothing that they've told me about, but it definitely works again.

My leaking headlight washer on the other hand... Still leaking!
Click to expand...
Was it all of your seat that felt like it wasn't on?
My back part heats up properly, but the seat feels like its not even on, just wondered if you knew what they did.
 
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#3,737 ·
The whole thing was dead... I thought it may have been the lumbar support masking the heat but now it works and the support is still in I know it wasn't that.

To be honest, I think they're covering their tracks slightly, of four warranty items I gave them they couldn't find faults with all four, but three of them are now fixed(?)
 
#3,738 ·
Sounds about right for Nissan Dealers!! Glad it works for you now though :)
 
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#3,739 ·
LED lights fitted:

Fog lights
Side Lights
LED puddle lights (yes one mirror broke)
Interior footwell light sorted

Interior LED lights seem to be the twist variety so the kit I bought was incorrect. Will get that sorted.

Also Chrome door covers sorted.

Towbar removed so that it can be sand blasted and repainted.

Headlights changed to night breakers.

Pics later.

Now off to body shop to get quote to remove dimple in rear bumper. Hopefully DTE box will show up later.

My Gyeon wet coat turned up as well so ready to detail once other stuff sorted.

So....apart from the other interior lights and tow bar I'm making progress.

To restore my mountain top I have calculated will take a full day !

Next on list will be the battery project and then fitting LED lightbar to rear, compressor and outlets and then the front LEDs. Would also be good get rid of my bed rug and replace with a plastic one.

I have a two small indentations on the front bumper next to the number plate. I wonder if some spotlights were on it before. I will post a pic later as I either replace the whole bumper or I put day light running lightbars on to cover them up. That would be my preferred option.

I'm addicted.
 
#3,740 ·
Innowaybored said:
Would also be good get rid of my bed rug and replace with a plastic one.
Click to expand...
Let me know if you want a double-cab plastic bed liner. I've got one I took off to fit a bed rug and it's just sat outside at the moment!
 
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