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so ive just had a better look at whats required to remove the inline baffle. where do i get the hoses required as the 90degree bend is metal attached to the baffle. i thought i could just take the baffle out but you need a whole new hose aswell? cheers
 
I'm not sure I follow you there, kiwi.
This is the setup, with the baffle to be substituted with a 5.5" piece of 2.25" straight tube (alu or steel), if you can have it hand-rimmed (usually done with a set of modified pliers), even better:
Image
 
mine was just like the photo that blue posted :wink:
 
JonnyT said:
On mine, and I guess kiwi's is the same, the elbow and baffle are one piece, not 2 separated pieces with a silicon connector. :-(
yeah mine is all metal where your ally bend is.(eg, baffle and bend all one bit) i have found a 90 degree bend on ebay that i think will work. will let you know how i get on. the k and n is ordered and the egr blank. :dance:
 
Bluenavara said:
I think it was established at a rolling road meet years ago that the K&N gave a good handful of extra hp on the D40. (Edited to add: I should have read Andy's post above, he stated this already.. :oops: )
While you're changing the filter, I would also remove the intake baffle in the airbox (top) and the boostpipe baffle next to the engine cover (bottom):
Image

Image
blue, where do i find the baffle in the top pic? and also does my new k/n need oil or is it pre-oiled? just fitted it and get a fair bit of induction noise. :partycheer: just the baffle bend(bottom pic) to go now :thumbleft:
 
The intake baffle is in the intake tube from the airbox to the hole in the left fenderwell. Every K&N comes pre-oiled with that purplish oil. A cleaned but unoiled K&N is white, thus the colour can be used to check whether it's oiled or not. And yes, a K&N panel filter makes more noise than the stock item.
 
Any chance you could show some pictures of it fitted and what does it sound like. Is it bearable
 
I did try mine with a custom made MAF seat and adapter for the cone filter (AEM dry-flow) and the induction noise can be heard even with the stereo blazing! Downside is I felt a bit of turbo lag from idle.

BTW, I have the same turbopipe baffle as seen on blue's pic but mine is Thai built. :S Planning on replacing the whole thing with ally tube with silicone couplers from the intercooler to the turbo. Anyone done this already?
 
Bluenavara said:
Sofia, you've seen the pic i posted in the oil catch can thread with the alu ic piping. From turbo to ic is dead simple, it's just two 90degr mandrel bend sections in 2.25, with hose couplers in the same diameter.

For more details, have a look at Sirnixalots posts in this thread:
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=7357&hilit=weld

Yes I did and got a great idea on how to run the plumbing.


Thanks heaps! :salute:
 
Sorry if this is the wrong place to post this but every time I searched for induction baffles it led me to this post. If it would be more helpful I can do a full write up?

Removed the baffle from the lower part of the air box today and thought a couple of pics of where it was removed from might help others, as that was what I had been looking for but couldn't find any, just the ones here of the baffle itself.

In order to remove I loosened the induction hose clip and removed from the top part of air box.
Unclipped the 4 air box clips (keep the top attached to the bottom part).
Removed the air filter and simply sat the top part out the way (MAF sensor still attached).
Unscrewed the one 10mm bolt (top right corner of the air box - if standing at the front of the nav).
Carefully unclipped the small hose attached to the left corner of the air box (not had a chance to find out where this hose goes yet).
There are 2 grommets holding it on, one in the centre (which you can see when looking in) and another at the front of the air box which you can't see but can feel. I carefully but firmly pulled the air box up.
The air box justs lifts out after this.
Then remove the side panel that's covering where the baffle sits

[attachment=1:1eabrqo0]baffle2.jpg[/attachment:1eabrqo0]

and remove the baffle.

[attachment=2:1eabrqo0]baffle1.jpg[/attachment:1eabrqo0]

[attachment=0:1eabrqo0]baffle3.jpg[/attachment:1eabrqo0]

Do in reverse to put it back together minus the baffle :wink:

Knowing where it is now I might have been able to just reach in a remove the side panel and the baffle without having to remove the full air box :slaphead
Although I do prefer to be able to see what I'm dismantling, usually car parts have stupid easily breakable clips and latches etc.
 

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Sorry to bring this topic up again, but i'm a newbie here and i'm torturing the search button to find as much info i can get. So by removing just the baffle, there is less restriction and more airflow into the air box?

D40 auto.

Grtz from Belgium.
 
lookskyward1 said:
billyok said:
Any Feed back on the filter kev? worth it etc,waste of time etc.

Or anybody else shed any light on it?.
They're worth fitting as you will never have to buy a new air filter again.

The power gains are questionable, putting the Nav on a rolling road before and after fitting would be the ony way to prove any real improvement.
If you don't clean K&N oil-impregnated filters regularly, they probably reduce BHP compared with standard disposable filters!
I agree with the independent, immediate before/after rolling-road test argument, for anything that makes claims about BHP. Truth is, almost everyone will believe their vehicle is "faster" if you change something that makes it louder (even just a tiny bit). Ask anyone with a Corsa under the age of 30!
 
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