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ed_g

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hopefully someone on here can offer some suggestions, as I've tried everything I can think of:

I had two issues on the way to work earlier this week. The first was the unexpected illumination of the skid and ESP lights on the dash, the second was a momentary loss of power and a really rough idle when stopped at the lights. The engine was warm but the weather cold.

The first issue appears to have cleared and I'm assuming a glitch/ice in one of the speed sensors. I'm not worried too much about that unless it recurs.

The second is still very much a problem. I have so far:

Reset the ECU - no change
Cleaned the MAF
Replaced the air filter and fuel filter
Replaced the SCV and reset the ECU - immediate improvement in idle but still frequent loss of power (occasional, not constant, inability to rev beyond 2k or 2k5 revs)
Put premium diesel and injector cleaner into tank (was about 1/3, now about 3/4)

(the SCV bought from PF Jones having given them my part number so presumably correct - no fault codes logged by the ECU since last reset)

I still have the same issues. It is possible that they are more apparent when cold, hard to say as it doesn't happen all the time and seems unrelated to selected gear or driving conditions (so I'm thinking not neutral position switch symptoms, although I think this is D40 only anyway).

My best guess now is that perhaps I had some bad diesel. I did fill up at an economy station several days ago but would have done 2/3 tank with absolutely no issues. But water, now ice in the fuel perhaps? Could this have blocked the fuel filter/SCV?

Is there anything I've missed? Air in the fuel lines (the primer bulb appears to be hard)? No smoke when it loses power so fuel related and not turbo, for example? Anyone else been having issues due to the temperature?

All/any advice and suggestions gratefully received. I've done about 20 miles since changing the fuel filter in test drives - possibly enough for bad fuel still to be in the fuel filter?
 
Firstly, i mentioned in another similar post, have you reset tbe fuel pump using the pedal dance?


What fuel pressures and boost pressures are you getting, they should be up to 22,000 psi and 20psi normally.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Having just been out with a borrowed OBD2 tool and my laptop, it appears I have recorded a log file full of nothing.

Anyway, while out on the latest test run, she stalled twice on me. Once when driving, once when stopped at a junction. On both occasions the fuel primer bulb was completely soft and repriming the diesel got the engine running again. I would therefore reckon that the most likely cause now is potentially air getting into the fuel system?
 
Having just been out with a borrowed OBD2 tool and my laptop, it appears I have recorded a log file full of nothing.

Anyway, while out on the latest test run, she stalled twice on me. Once when driving, once when stopped at a junction. On both occasions the fuel primer bulb was completely soft and repriming the diesel got the engine running again. I would therefore reckon that the most likely cause now is potentially air getting into the fuel system?
Was it a nissan fuel filter?
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
Latest testing, the primer bulb goes soft (say 5-8 squeezes to harden up) after either a couple of minutes of minutes or a single start and some revs. Checked the fuel filter clips and pipes and they all look ok. I could put the old fuel filter back on but I can't see that's going to get me anywhere.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
I'm out of light now so will have to stop until tomorrow. However I changed the fuel filter back to the old one and confirm I'm getting the same problems. So it's probably not that. I also installed a bit of clear tubing between the fuel rail and the fuel filter (pipe C from http://www.nissan-navara.net/45-d40-technical-library/37561-d40-cannister-fuel-filter.html) and it looks like I'm getting quite large bubbles of air with the diesel which perhaps is the source of the problem.

Any ideas how to proceed?
 
I'm out of light now so will have to stop until tomorrow. However I changed the fuel filter back to the old one and confirm I'm getting the same problems. So it's probably not that. I also installed a bit of clear tubing between the fuel rail and the fuel filter (pipe C from http://www.nissan-navara.net/45-d40-technical-library/37561-d40-cannister-fuel-filter.html) and it looks like I'm getting quite large bubbles of air with the diesel which perhaps is the source of the problem.

Any ideas how to proceed?
Still say filter they are notorious for being problematic ! putting the old one back on isnt exactly proving anything many have had issues with aftermarket filters the problems are mainly around sealing at the T piece. Other wise what else have you moved to allow air in.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Yes, there is every chance that the old filter is as much of a problem as the new one could be. If the filters were at fault, at the T-piece or otherwise, would the symptom be air bubbles in the return path *to* the filter? Or is that a red herring?

In terms of what has been moved, I changed the SCV which involved moving the dipstick and one of the other fuel lines. Both were checked back into place and the engine run successfully. And the fuel filter and air filter. And an ECU/Fuel pump reset (a few now). What it looks like I'm seeing is a continuation and degradation of the original fault which has gone from being intermittent to constant with varying stages of false progress inbetween attempts to diagnose the issue and I fear I am nearly out of "inexpensive" options to try before starting to suspect things like the injector pump.
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Ok, with some external assistance the problem has been located and resolved - an injector was physically loose.

It would appear that the previous owner of my truck had removed and refitted the injectors very badly. Attached is a photo of the state of the seals on removal!!!! Whilst I've owned it for a couple of years this latest cold weather (-5/-6 on the day in question) must have, through different thermal expansion rates, cracked off the very poor seal and then the rearmost injector started working its way loose, which explains the symptoms and also why they were steadily getting worse since first observed.

I doubt this will help many people, but worth bearing in mind perhaps if you don't know the history of your vehicle completely.
 
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