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D40 windscreen washer problem

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NellyC

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hi guys
My windscreen washer stopped working on my 2011 2.5dCi Navara D40 Tekna (auto), I think it had been intermittent for a while. It's been a bit confusing as I only just found out that the windscreen and headlights each have their own pumps - when you pull on the R/H stalk both the windscreen and headlight washers operate, so difficult to tell if both pumps are actually working.

After reading a few posts on this forum i first checked the fuse in the fuse box inside the glove box - the fuse wasn’t blown (20a). I then removed the drivers side wheel arch cover which allows you to get to the bottom of the reservoir where the two pumps are. As far as I can tell, the pump at the bottom is the windscreen one. When I pulled on the stalk it didn’t run. I then removed the pump & tested the supply wires - couldn’t get any voltage from them. Next I took a couple of wires direct from the battery to the pump terminals - the pump runs.

There are three more fuse boxes in the engine bay - I’ve looked at each of those but can’t find anything else labelled washer (except for headlight washer).

Would the washer pump be supplied via a relay? Any ideas where that would be situated (none of the relays I've found are labelled as washer)? Does anyone have a wiring diagram for it? The wires supplying the pump I removed are orange and blue.

I have read a number of previous threads on here, but they all seem to end up being either a blown fuse in the glove box, a knackered pump or blocked jets!

Any info/help would be greatly appreciated!
 
#2 ·
FRONT WASHER OPERATION
When the ignition switch is in the ON or START position, and the front washer switches are OFF, the front
washer motor is supplied power
 through 10A fuse [No. 15, located in fuse block (J/B)]
 through combination switch (wiper switch) terminal 11
 through combination switch (wiper switch) terminal 13
 to front washer motor terminal 1.
When the front wiper switch is in the front washer position, the BCM detects a front washer signal request
through the combination switch (wiper switch) reading function.
Combination switch ground is supplied
 to front washer motor terminal 2
 through combination switch (wiper switch) terminal 14
 through combination switch (wiper switch) terminal 12
 through grounds M21, M80 and M83.
With ground supplied, the front washer motor is operated in the front direction.
When the BCM detects that front washer motor has operated for 0.4 seconds or longer, the BCM uses CAN
communication and sends a wiper request signal to the IPDM E/R for low speed operation of wipers.
When the BCM detects that the washer switch is OFF, low speed operation cycles approximately 3 times and
then stops.
 
#4 ·
1. CHECK FUSE

2. CHECK POWER SUPPLY CIRCUIT
1. Turn ignition switch OFF.
2. Disconnect BCM connector.
3. Check voltage between BCM harness connector and ground.
terminal 57 is always 12V
terminal 3 is 12v when key is at ON

3. CHECK GROUND CIRCUIT
Check continuity between BCM harness connector and ground.
terminal 55 should be ground
 
#6 ·
smcc said:
I can confirm blue (L) and orange (O or OR) for the washer motor.
Click to expand...
The next check, after not seeing a voltage on one of those wires when the washer is supposed to be running, is to determine which wire connects through to ground, by buzzing it out. I'd eliminate any possible corroded ground straps on the vehicle if neither wire seems to ultimately connect to the battery ground. . It would be very unusual for both wires to be switched in any way.
 
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#7 ·
So basically to summarise;

A white wire goes from the fuse box to the combination switch terminal 11

A blue wire goes from terminal 13 of the combination switch to the washer motor


An orange wire goes from the washer motor to terminal 14 of the combination switch

A black wire goes from terminal 12 of the combination switch to the ground M21 then M80 and M83 behind the instrument cluster.

The BCM controls the combination switch through a green wire terminal 3
the BCM power is terminal 57 and ground is terminal 55
 
#8 ·
NellyC said:
Hi guys
My windscreen washer stopped working on my 2011 2.5dCi Navara D40 Tekna (auto), I think it had been intermittent for a while. It's been a bit confusing as I only just found out that the windscreen and headlights each have their own pumps - when you pull on the R/H stalk both the windscreen and headlight washers operate, so difficult to tell if both pumps are actually working.

After reading a few posts on this forum i first checked the fuse in the fuse box inside the glove box - the fuse wasn’t blown (20a). I then removed the drivers side wheel arch cover which allows you to get to the bottom of the reservoir where the two pumps are. As far as I can tell, the pump at the bottom is the windscreen one. When I pulled on the stalk it didn’t run. I then removed the pump & tested the supply wires - couldn’t get any voltage from them. Next I took a couple of wires direct from the battery to the pump terminals - the pump runs.

There are three more fuse boxes in the engine bay - I’ve looked at each of those but can’t find anything else labelled washer (except for headlight washer).

Would the washer pump be supplied via a relay? Any ideas where that would be situated (none of the relays I've found are labelled as washer)? Does anyone have a wiring diagram for it? The wires supplying the pump I removed are orange and blue.

I have read a number of previous threads on here, but they all seem to end up being either a blown fuse in the glove box, a knackered pump or blocked jets!

Any info/help would be greatly appreciated!
Click to expand...
Some pretty comprehensive responses for you. A wiring diagram wouldn't help, they are beyond complicated.
 
#10 ·
Two observations .
1. if when you pull on the stalk both sets of washers work then both pumps are working.

2. the headlight washers will only work if your headlights are on and you may have the pumps mixed up. They also have a delay fitted that wont allow constant use .

Are you sure that somebody hasnt put the terminals back on the wrong pump when they have fiddled with it maybe try swapping them over . Quite a few of those will have been fiddled with as the tanks have been an issue on them by way of leaking.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
Thanks for the info. I don't think anyone has been at it before - I've owned it from new. Before I read some threads on the forum, I didn't realise there were two different pumps, but I'm pretty clear on what's there & how it should work now.

I did think that if I don't get anywhere testing it through (or if there's a fault with the BCM) I might swap the headlight washer supply with the windscreen wash one - as far as I'm concerned the headlight wash is a waste of time, so I'm not worried if that's not working.
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
smcc said:
1. CHECK FUSE

2. CHECK POWER SUPPLY CIRCUIT
1. Turn ignition switch OFF.
2. Disconnect BCM connector.
3. Check voltage between BCM harness connector and ground.
terminal 57 is always 12V
terminal 3 is 12v when key is at ON

3. CHECK GROUND CIRCUIT
Check continuity between BCM harness connector and ground.
terminal 55 should be ground
Click to expand...
Hi guys

An update on this problem: I checked fuse, which is a 20A (and marked up as such on the fuse chart) and that was okay. I then located the BCM and disconnected all three plugs. I couldn't figure out what terminals I was supposed to be testing, so reconnected it. I tried to check for continuity between the wire at the pump and the negative battery terminal, but I couldn't seem to get good continuity. However, with the ignition on and the washer switch at ON, I did find that I had 12V to the pump terminals, so reconnected the pump and it ran. Great!

Only thing now is, the Nav won't start, even with a jump! Is that because I disconnected the BCM? There is a code on the digital display what says "PTY - RDY". When you turn the ignition, it goes to start for a second and then makes a whirring sound.

Help!!
 
#14 ·
Disconnect the battery for 10mins and reconnect.
If that does not work, try the full ECU reset pedal thing.
Also check your battery is fully charged - may need a trickle charge overnight, assuming it's in good nick of course...
 
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Discussion starter · #16 ·
freemansteve said:
Disconnect the battery for 10mins and reconnect.
If that does not work, try the full ECU reset pedal thing.
Also check your battery is fully charged - may need a trickle charge overnight, assuming it's in good nick of course...
Click to expand...
I'm having a nightmare here to be honest. I charged the battery up overnight, the battery itself is around two years old & has a coloured indicator which says it's okay. This morning I tried disconnecting the battery terminals & touching them together. Reconnected the battery & it still just "whirrs". I then disconnected the battery terminals & left it for over ten minutes. Reconnected & exactly the same. I then went through the process of pumping the accelerator to put the ECU into test etc. Tried it three times now & the engine light flashes, but still the result is that it won't even try to start.

Any other ideas? I suppose next step is to disconnect the battery overnight?

Thanks for help so far by the way.
 
#17 ·
What kind of whirr are you talking about? Can you post a sound file or a video with sound? "Whirr" kind of implies something is turning...

It may not be the ECU if the car is actually trying to start, and it could still be the battery despite the "indicator" (or a corroded earth connection somewhere). Might be worth seeing what happens if you connect to another car with jump leads....
 
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Discussion starter · #19 ·
freemansteve said:
What kind of whirr are you talking about? Can you post a sound file or a video with sound? "Whirr" kind of implies something is turning...

It may not be the ECU if the car is actually trying to start, and it could still be the battery despite the "indicator" (or a corroded earth connection somewhere). Might be worth seeing what happens if you connect to another car with jump leads....
Click to expand...
When I first tried to start it after working on the washer, the battery was obviously a bit run down as it only turned the engine over slowly & it failed to start. Since then, as soon as you turn the ignition key, it doesn't try to turn the engine over, just makes this electronic whirring noise. I've disconnected the battery again now to try leaving it for a few hours. I did try to jump start it yesterday, and again it failed to turn the engine over, so I don't think it's the battery.
 
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