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D40 overheating uphill AFTER everything replaced

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Discussion starter · #21 ·
landmannnn said:
Just like a petrol, too much fuel will not cause overheating.

Your maf readings are spot on what would be expected.
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Thanks landmannnn, good info. So if I’ve bled the coolant with the car pointing up a hill, would you suggest the next step to be a full flush of the coolant and replace thermostat -again- just in case?
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
landmannnn said:
I still think you are not getting enough coolant flow somehow
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I’m not questioning you at all Landmannnn, and I appreciate all the guidance! I’m now wondering if I bled the system wrong - I didn’t have the heater on max, and with the coolant temp only reaching 62 degrees I’m not sure the thermostat would have opened. I think trying that again and getting it to a normal operating temp of closer to 90 might be my next step?

Thanks once again!
 
#28 ·
The engine doesn't have to be hot to bleed it.
Regards the viscous fan, if the engine is cold the fan will spin freely.
Get the engine up to temperature and turn it off. The fan should turn easily, but there should be resistance.
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
landmannnn said:
The engine doesn't have to be hot to bleed it.
Regards the viscous fan, if the engine is cold the fan will spin freely.
Get the engine up to temperature and turn it off. The fan should turn easily, but there should be resistance.
Click to expand...
Update;
Bled the coolant system again, from cold to operating temp. Heater on max. Took it for a drive and no luck. Will let it get cold and check levels again.

WRT the viscous fan, I get about 1/4 of a revolution when the engine is cold. When the engine is hot (and literally just turned the engine off), I get 2 to 3 full revolutions.

so now back to square one. Thermostat replacement on the cards.
 
#30 ·
Did you get any burps when you were bleeding the engine you may be better off if you did not empty the system refill let it run as you did the water level should drop then fill it again and wait to see it drop again and keep repeating if it drops until you get heat this can take quite some time as it will take a time to warm up you could always change the thermostat at the same time but i don't think it's faulty the other thing i have heard is faulty water pumps from new where there not pumping around fast enough
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
geoffsnook said:
Did you get any burps when you were bleeding the engine you may be better off if you did not empty the system refill let it run as you did the water level should drop then fill it again and wait to see it drop again and keep repeating if it drops until you get heat this can take quite some time as it will take a time to warm up you could always change the thermostat at the same time but i don't think it's faulty the other thing i have heard is faulty water pumps from new where there not pumping around fast enough
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Hey mate!
Haven’t seen too much progress on this yet. Coolant levels haven’t dropped measurably at all, but given the fan is in good nick, the water pump is new (but definitely not off the table), I’m now very suspicious of an air lock or a faulty thermostat. I don’t think there is too much else there can be!!

So now I go back to the process. Hard not to get impatient, but that’s definitely something I need to get over.

Thanks once again for all your help!
 
#32 ·
They should drop when you have empty the system and refill especially when the thermostat opens the level will drop and usully when it goes into the heater matrix so if it hasent then there will be air in there(y)
 
#33 ·
Shep55 said:
Update;
Bled the coolant system again, from cold to operating temp. Heater on max. Took it for a drive and no luck. Will let it get cold and check levels again.

WRT the viscous fan, I get about 1/4 of a revolution when the engine is cold. When the engine is hot (and literally just turned the engine off), I get 2 to 3 full revolutions.

so now back to square one. Thermostat replacement on the cards.
Click to expand...
Not sure the fan is right. Doubting myself now, but I think it should spin when cold and be harder to turn when hot.
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
landmannnn said:
Not sure the fan is right. Doubting myself now, but I think it should spin when cold and be harder to turn when hot.
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There seems to be two different thoughts on this hey!
The mechanic explained the viscous fan in the d40 as when the temp rises the liquid in there thins out, meaning the fan doesn’t meet resistance as it’s not needed at high speeds. What you are both saying about the metal heating up make sense, but then again so does what the mechanic said! I also had someone back what the mechanic said completely independently, so I’m a bit confused.
In any case, if I don’t see coolant levels drop over the next few days I’ll empty the system and pop a new stat in (genuine nissan one for $40) - then I’ll reattack the fan with a different mech.

I’ll update you with progress, thank you so much!
 
#36 ·
To confirm the diagnosis, start with this simple test: Spin the fan as hard as you can on an engine that has not been started that day. If the fan rotates more than five times, you can bet the clutch is bad. You should feel some resistance and the fan may spin up to three times, depending on the ambient temperature.
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
geoffsnook said:
To confirm the diagnosis, start with this simple test: Spin the fan as hard as you can on an engine that has not been started that day. If the fan rotates more than five times, you can bet the clutch is bad. You should feel some resistance and the fan may spin up to three times, depending on the ambient temperature.
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Thanks mate! Will give it a test and let you know how it goes.
 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
geoffsnook said:
To confirm the diagnosis, start with this simple test: Spin the fan as hard as you can on an engine that has not been started that day. If the fan rotates more than five times, you can bet the clutch is bad. You should feel some resistance and the fan may spin up to three times, depending on the ambient temperature.
Click to expand...
Update!
Engine was cold (not started) this morning. Turned maybe 1/8 of a revolution when I spun as hard as I could. Definitely not 5 times.
 
#39 ·
But an 1/8 means it may have bearings on the way out or no fluid left if i understand it correctly so fan should be working all the time so making your issue even stranger was the head skimmed professionally when head gasket was replaced
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
geoffsnook said:
But an 1/8 means it may have bearings on the way out or no fluid left if i understand it correctly so fan should be working all the time so making your issue even stranger was the head skimmed professionally when head gasket was replaced
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I can confirm that the fan is definitely spinning all the time.
I’m fairly sure it was skimmed professionally. It was done by the best in the business here in my state, so I’m confident it was done properly.
Next step is replacing the thermostat with a high-flow version (tridon TT297-180). Just trying to figure out if it needs a gasket!
 
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gfromleeds
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