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exomoons

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hello all,

I'm from WA and just bought myself a D40 STX 2010 for a very reasonable price, which came at a cost. Long story short sometimes it doesn't start, vibration and aircon doesn't work. Well I might have fixed the starting issue by resetting the ECU. The vibration, I narrowed down to the air filter, someone removed it sometime ago and did not secure it properly to the chassis so it sits there and dances around with the engine. The problem is, I don't know how to do the front bolt back in, just not enough room. Anyway I'm going to replace the 3 mounts as well, for peace of mind.
I haven't touched the aircon.

Just a quick question, it seems something is missing between the windscreen and the frame, is there suppose to be some sort of weather seal between them?

Cheers,
Aaron
 

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Hello all,

I'm from WA and just bought myself a D40 STX 2010 for a very reasonable price, which came at a cost. Long story short sometimes it doesn't start, vibration and aircon doesn't work. Well I might have fixed the starting issue by resetting the ECU. The vibration, I narrowed down to the air filter, someone removed it sometime ago and did not secure it properly to the chassis so it sits there and dances around with the engine. The problem is, I don't know how to do the front bolt back in, just not enough room. Anyway I'm going to replace the 3 mounts as well, for peace of mind.
I haven't touched the aircon.

Just a quick question, it seems something is missing between the windscreen and the frame, is there suppose to be some sort of weather seal between them?

Cheers,
Aaron
Welcome.

The AC has probably just run out of gas, maybe a leak, maybe not.

The windscreen is supposed to look like that.
 
Hello all,

I'm from WA and just bought myself a D40 STX 2010 for a very reasonable price, which came at a cost. Long story short sometimes it doesn't start, vibration and aircon doesn't work. Well I might have fixed the starting issue by resetting the ECU. The vibration, I narrowed down to the air filter, someone removed it sometime ago and did not secure it properly to the chassis so it sits there and dances around with the engine. The problem is, I don't know how to do the front bolt back in, just not enough room. Anyway I'm going to replace the 3 mounts as well, for peace of mind.
I haven't touched the aircon.

Just a quick question, it seems something is missing between the windscreen and the frame, is there suppose to be some sort of weather seal between them?

Cheers,
Aaron
I've got the same issue with the A/C it just randomly stopped work one day so i took it down to Nissan and they quoted me a 6k job without labor so i declined and haven't had aircon for quite some time now. i haven't tried much to fix it.

I have tried the IPDM Test on my 2011 pathfinder r51 once it gets to the compressor clutch test it restarts the self diagnosis

if you want to try the self diagnosis follow this.
IPDM Intelligent Power Distribution Module (the hidden fuse box) Auto Active Test
NOTE: When auto active test is performed with hood opened, sprinkle water on windshield beforehand.

â—Ź In auto active test mode, operation inspection can be performed when IPDM E/R sends a drive signal to the following systems:
– *Rear window defogger
– *Front wiper

– *Tail lamps, front fog lamps, parking lamps and license plate lamps

– *Headlamps (HI, LO)

– *A/C compressor (magnetic clutch)

– *Cooling fan
– *Oil pressure warning lamp


1. Close hood and All doors except drivers, and then lift wiper arms away from windshield (to prevent glass damage by wiper operation).
2. Turn ignition switch OFF.
3. Turn ignition switch ON and, within 20 seconds, press driver's door switch 10 times (The door sensor switch in the arch).
4. Then turn ignition switch OFF.
5. Turn ignition switch ON within 10 seconds after ignition switch OFF.
6. When auto active test mode is actuated, oil pressure warning lamp starts blinking.
7. After a series of operations is repeated three times, auto active test is completed. 
NOTE: 
When auto active test mode has to be cancelled halfway, turn ignition switch OFF. 


Sequence:
1. Rear window defogger 10 seconds
2. Front wiper LO 5 seconds → HI 5 seconds
3. Tail lamps, front fog lamps, parking lamps, license plate lamps 10 seconds
4. Headlamps LO 10 seconds → HI ON-OFF 5 times
5. A/C compressor ON-OFF 5 times
6. Cooling fan LO 5 seconds → HI 5 seconds

 
Welcome.

The AC has probably just run out of gas, maybe a leak, maybe not.

The windscreen is supposed to look like that.
my ac also doesn't function
both sides have pressure when i push the valve open
is there a code for low gas?

What does it mean if the IPDM test restarts on the AC compressor test?? like does it mean that compressor is cooked or what?
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
my ac also doesn't function
both sides have pressure when i push the valve open
is there a code for low gas?

What does it mean if the IPDM test restarts on the AC compressor test?? like does it mean that compressor is cooked or what?
I've got the same issue with the A/C it just randomly stopped work one day so i took it down to Nissan and they quoted me a 6k job without labor so i declined and haven't had aircon for quite some time now. i haven't tried much to fix it.

I have tried the IPDM Test on my 2011 pathfinder r51 once it gets to the compressor clutch test it restarts the self diagnosis

if you want to try the self diagnosis follow this.
IPDM Intelligent Power Distribution Module (the hidden fuse box) Auto Active Test
NOTE: When auto active test is performed with hood opened, sprinkle water on windshield beforehand.

â—Ź In auto active test mode, operation inspection can be performed when IPDM E/R sends a drive signal to the following systems:
– *Rear window defogger
– *Front wiper

– *Tail lamps, front fog lamps, parking lamps and license plate lamps

– *Headlamps (HI, LO)

– *A/C compressor (magnetic clutch)

– *Cooling fan
– *Oil pressure warning lamp


1. Close hood and All doors except drivers, and then lift wiper arms away from windshield (to prevent glass damage by wiper operation).
2. Turn ignition switch OFF.
3. Turn ignition switch ON and, within 20 seconds, press driver's door switch 10 times (The door sensor switch in the arch).
4. Then turn ignition switch OFF.
5. Turn ignition switch ON within 10 seconds after ignition switch OFF.
6. When auto active test mode is actuated, oil pressure warning lamp starts blinking.
7. After a series of operations is repeated three times, auto active test is completed. 
NOTE: 
When auto active test mode has to be cancelled halfway, turn ignition switch OFF. 


Sequence:
1. Rear window defogger 10 seconds
2. Front wiper LO 5 seconds → HI 5 seconds
3. Tail lamps, front fog lamps, parking lamps, license plate lamps 10 seconds
4. Headlamps LO 10 seconds → HI ON-OFF 5 times
5. A/C compressor ON-OFF 5 times
6. Cooling fan LO 5 seconds → HI 5 seconds

Thanks for this, it'll come in handy. I would assume the control system stops the clutch from engaging if low gas. I would hook up and measure for 12V at the clutch when the AC is turned ON. If you have 12V for a brief moment then control is OK, so either low gas or seized clutch. For about $200 you can take it for a re-gas, the technician would tell you if you got a leak, or burned out compressor.
 
Thanks for this, it'll come in handy. I would assume the control system stops the clutch from engaging if low gas. I would hook up and measure for 12V at the clutch when the AC is turned ON. If you have 12V for a brief moment then control is OK, so either low gas or seized clutch. For about $200 you can take it for a re-gas, the technician would tell you if you got a leak, or burned out compressor.
Where is connect for the compressor located??
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Where is connect for the compressor located??
Normally on the compressor, there should be 12V+ going in (black plug) and ground with the compressor body.
I would also check for continuity between the compressor body and ground, fuse and continuity of the clutch control wire.
 

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