[PCUK]

Still not solved the problem. I'm thinking of very obscure ideas now. After pumping the primer bulb for a few seconds it becomes hard - so that's fine! The question is, how long should it stay hard?
Other query. If I replace the primer bulb with an electric fuel pump might that solve the problem and will it have any adverse effect on normal engine running as the pump will be running at all times when ignition is on?
Thanks, Peter

 

[landmannnn]

The bulb should go soft as soon as the engine has started.

 

[PCUK]

I mean't how long if I don't start the engine?
Ta.

 

[PCUK]

Perhaps someone could check this the next time they are under their bonnet!
Thanks, Peter

 

[PCUK]

Can you squeeze your bulb for me?

Next time you're under the bonnet Would you mind squeezing your primer bulb and then see how long it takes to go soft again (without starting the engine). This is another line of enquiry in the hunt for the cold stalling stalling problem as all normal measures have failed. Thanks, Peter

 

[Jtwrx]

How did you get on bud? Have you checked the timing and sensors by unplugging the cam sensor?

 

[PCUK]

To be honest, your post yesterday reminded me to have a go. However, after taking the engine cover off all I could see were two plugs on the nearside of the engine, one brown and the other white. I managed to disconnect the brown one and the engine started as normal and then stalled as normal. But I don't know whether the brown plug is the cam sensor. Any advice on which is which would be appreciated.

 

[Jtwrx]

To be honest, your post yesterday reminded me to have a go. However, after taking the engine cover off all I could see were two plugs on the nearside of the engine, one brown and the other white. I managed to disconnect the brown one and the engine started as normal and then stalled as normal. But I don't know whether the brown plug is the cam sensor. Any advice on which is which would be appreciated.

The cam sensor is right at the top back corner of the engine at the bulk head end. The plug is facing the near side. Is that the one you disconnected?
I

 

[Jtwrx]

I could send you a pic if you want

 

[PCUK]

If it's on the side at the back, then it sounds like the right one, a pic would settle it though. Many thanks,

 

[Jtwrx]

If it's on the side at the back, then it sounds like the right one, a pic would settle it though. Many thanks,

Will do my best to get one to you shortly.

 

[Jtwrx]

Hope you can make sence of this bud

 

[PCUK]

Aha! I can see it now although mine is more buried than yours. What's the secret to unplugging it?
Also, does the bolt underneath the plug release the sensor itself?
THanks

 

[Jtwrx]

Aha! I can see it now although mine is more buried than yours. What's the secret to unplugging it?
Also, does the bolt underneath the plug release the sensor itself?
THanks

Erm if you cant do it by squeezing the tab with your fingures you cound get some pliers and gently squeeze the release tab and pull it out like that, its a bit awkward tbh but persevere.
Yes the bolt underneath releases the whole sensor.
Bearing in mind the crank sensor also which could be faulty.
So you have a cam sensor at the top of the engine and a crank sensor at the bottom of the engine, if im right in thinking if one of those is faulty then they basically aint talking to eachother. If one is faulty or both the engine isnt getting the correct signals to say its safe to start or run for long.
Fingurs crossed its just a sensor.
Unplug it, if it runs you possibly have a timing chain issue, if it doesnt start at all might be best to replace both sensors or buy one and swap out as necessary.
Hope this all helps mate

 

[PCUK]

Couldn't see a tab, but now I know there's one somewhere I'll have a go tomorrow.
Greatly appreciate your help and I'll let you know how I progress.
Cheers,
Peter

 

[PCUK]

Disconnected the cam sensor and started the truck, took about six attempts before it started but didn't stall. However, one test doesn't mean anything so I'll try it again tomorrow. When running the truck performs very well without any undue rattles or noises so I don't think it can be anything mechanical. Perhaps I'll try a new cam sensor.
Cheers, Peter

 

[PCUK]

Thinking about the cam sensor, wouldn't it affect starting whether hot or cold? I decided to try a crude fuel drain back test by clamping the pipe from the tank with Mole grips on the tank side of the primer bulb. Still stalled in the morning and then died completely after about half a mile. I noticed there was diesel on the pipe so disconnected it and cut off about an inch, then found that the pipe was rotten, literally falling apart so I cut more off until I got back to what looked like sound pipe and reconnected. Running OK again but my next task is to replace the entire pipe from the tank to the primer in case that is the problem. Incidentally clamping with Mole grips wasn't what damaged the pipe.

 

[gfromleeds]

Thinking about the cam sensor, wouldn't it affect starting whether hot or cold? I decided to try a crude fuel drain back test by clamping the pipe from the tank with Mole grips on the tank side of the primer bulb. Still stalled in the morning and then died completely after about half a mile. I noticed there was diesel on the pipe so disconnected it and cut off about an inch, then found that the pipe was rotten, literally falling apart so I cut more off until I got back to what looked like sound pipe and reconnected. Running OK again but my next task is to replace the entire pipe from the tank to the primer in case that is the problem. Incidentally clamping with Mole grips wasn't what damaged the pipe.

I believe the pipes under the truck are plastic! (Could be wrong though) so wouldn't need to go all the way back to the tank just to where the rubber pipe meets the plastic

 

[PCUK]

Thanks for that. Having checked, there is only about six inches of rubber before it meets the plastic, so makes it an easy job. Cheers, Peter

 

[PCUK]

Repeated my test on the fuel line clamping the feed from the tank with Mole grips overnight. After applying the grips I squeezed the primer and it stayed squeezed indicating a vacuum in the upper fuel line section which is what would be expected. The following morning the bulb had expanded indicating that air had got in and broken the vacuum. On starting, the truck stalled as usual (as I expected). This leads me to think that there is a minute leak in upper fuel line section unless the Mole grips had not made a 100% seal. Checked all filter connections and previously sealed the return plug in with pipe sealer so that shouldn't be leaking. Could it be the primer bulb has a minute leak?
Cheers,
Peter
ps Don't like the rearranged topics, very confusing!