[Joe cornell]

Hi

My first post.

I have a couple of issues I hope you can help with, a EGR query and a front end whine for diagnosis(hopefully)

I have a prepared an all be it long winded description ready when you are.

Joe

 

[lookskyward1]

Hi Joe, go for it. :fingersx

 

[Joe cornell]

Navara problems

Hi I may have more than one issue so I will try to give as much detail as possible and I may waffle on a bit, sorry about that......

My truck

2004 Rally Raid in Flame Red with hard top
Mileage 122k
New Engine fitted by Nissan at 70k due to their big end issue I'm sure you're all aware of! Chucked a rod through both sides of the block at 80mph. Scary!!



1. I have a question about where to blank the EGR, I have been advised that the 2 far ends should done, exhaust end is diamond shaped and other is round centred. There are some rubber hoses connecting EGR unit so just want to make sure that I blank the right parts so it works properly, I've heard that the engine management light will come on whilst on the motorway it shouldn't effect MOT as not on constantly. Should I expect any other issues or just improvements?

2. I have a front end whine, I have had 3 different experts!! Test drive to try to locate and solve.
I have had the oil changed in front diff and gearbox searching for debris but although dirty that was it.
Near side front bearing had slight play noticed on recent MOT both both fronts been adjusted since.

All think that it may be front of gearbox or transfer box, the symptoms are:

A. Only whines over 30 mph
B. Only whines when accelerating and changes pitch with speed
C. Releasing throttle whine stops
D. Drive at constant speed then whine turns into a much louder metallic noise, lose the throttle or increase then the noise stops and reverts back to the above.
E. Maybe unrelated but when I pull away gently a noise best described as a speed sensitive rotation type rattle which disappears after a few mph comes from the near side front direction.

I now don't take it over 50 as it is deafening.

I had a similar sounding problem last year and I thought the near side front wheel bearing had failed, turned out to be the rear diff, noise travelled along the transmission to disguise location, diff was so far gone, it couldn't be reconditioned, secondhand part had to be bought in an that reconditioned instead.

As I'm sure that you are aware these trucks are not the quietest vehicles on the road, so finding one noise over the others is hard.

 

[lookskyward1]

New Engine fitted by Nissan at 70k due to their big end issue I'm sure you're all aware of! Chucked a rod through both sides of the block at 80mph. Scary!!

First things first, the bad news is this 'new' engine is just as likely to throw a leg out of bed as the first one. The replacement engine fitted by Nissan still was never upgraded, just a straight forward replacement. The good news is it can be made bullet proof by fitting new big end bearing shells as well as a wee modification to the oil pickup in the sump. It is a big job but well worth doing.

1. I have a question about where to blank the EGR, I have been advised that the 2 far ends should done, exhaust end is diamond shaped and other is round centred. There are some rubber hoses connecting EGR unit so just want to make sure that I blank the right parts so it works properly, I've heard that the engine management light will come on whilst on the motorway it shouldn't effect MOT as not on constantly. Should I expect any other issues or just improvements?

This is an easy one, fit the blank on the exhaust manifold side of the EGR valve itself. This stops the valve getting gunged up and the associated exhaiust gasses being passed through your intake back to the engine. The good news here is that the D22 is not clever enough to realise the blank has been fitted and it will not cause a fault code or running problem and the chances of a MOT inspector or anyone else spotting it is next to nil. :dance:

I'll have a break and think about the whine, back soon :study:

 

[chris vince]

There is plenty on here concerning all of your 'complaints', I would respectfully suggest you do a thorough search, but in the meantime my thoughts.
1. Although you have had a new Nissan engine there is no guarantee that this one won't explode, as there is no way of knowing exactly when the engine was manufactured, it may have been 'old stock' that has the defective bolts and bearings in it, making it a time bomb.
2. I advocate only doing one end of the EGR system this is to ventilate the closed part to stop unseen corrosion, block it at the joint behind the alternator, the MIL light will NOT come on at all, NO negatives only positives for doing this mod.
3. D22's have a well known weakness in the front drive train, this is the front propshaft, to rule this out, remove it and go for a drive, if there is no noise, rumbles etc then the front prop is defective, think about fitting a set of free wheel hubs, they pay for themselves over time and stop the front prop ever failing again.

 

[Joe cornell]

Ok thanks

Front prop replaced about 18-24 months ago with a new aftermarket one which seemed to exceed the quality of the original, this was done due to solve a vigorous vibration along with Center bearing on rear prop.
But I will get that removed and tested.

Also unrelated I'm sure I have just bought a new NPS for gearbox as stuttering in 3rd and 4th, yet to be fitted


Joe

 

[lookskyward1]

Chris is the man to speak to regarding the D22, :awesomework

His suggestion to remove the front propshaft makes perfect sense and should at least tie down the location of the whine if not eliminate it as the cause. :fingersx Good luck with the repairs. :thumbright:

 

[pdfisher]

Chris is the man to speak to regarding the D22, :awesomework

His suggestion to remove the front propshaft makes perfect sense and should at least tie down the location of the whine if not eliminate it as the cause. :fingersx Good luck with the repairs. :thumbright:

:+1

 

[Joe cornell]

Thanks for all the info, quick question as I know nothing about free wheel hubs.

What exactly do they do and does it effect the 4x4 parts?

Also is there anything else I should consider doing?

 

[diggerman]

Freewheel hubs are fitted on the two front wheels so you can manually disengage the front drive shafts which means the front prop does not rotate when 4wd is disengaged.
Could also save you some fuel as well as increase the life of the front prop.
Milner 4x4 sell the freewheel hubs.

 

[Joe cornell]

Thanks I will look into getting some of them.

Hope to get the front prop off in the morning to see if noise stops, I had a 90 mile round trip today on the motorway, did it no favours as whine is now louder and starts at a lower speed, sound of metal on metal from under low range gear lever not grinding but like a rubbing brake disc kind of sound.

Loud Noise sounds loose like thin metal vibrating at constant speed but no noise on coast, and no noticeable vibration.

Do you know how front prop comes off, been under and had a look, is it just a matter of undoing the bolts front and back and pulling it off or is there more to it, should I mark the positions for when it goes back on or is it ok wherever.

Looks simple enough but having not done it before thought I would check.

Thanks in advance

 

[chris vince]

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
2. I have a front end whine, I have had 3 different experts!! Test drive to try to locate and solve.
I have had the oil changed in front diff and gearbox searching for debris but although dirty that was it.
Near side front bearing had slight play noticed on recent MOT both both fronts been adjusted since.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
You state that the gearbox and front diff oils have been changed, but no mention of the transfer box oil.
Are you aware that the transfer box is completely separate and has it's own oil supply, it may be low?
NO offence intended or trying to teach you to suck eggs, but an offer of suggestions.

 

[lookskyward1]

It is a good idea to mark the propshaft flanges where they join the gearbox and axle flanges, just to make sure it goes back in the right position.

It is just the four nuts and bots on each flange, so straight forward enough. Just remember which end has the sliding joint.